Stock Finishing with Tru-Oil

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SgtErv

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Greetings all,

I am on the third coat of Birchwood Casey Tru Oil stock finish. I've used my fingers to apply all three coats.
As I'm nearing the completion (probably going to just do 5 coats), I'm trying to get the absolute smoothest finish that I can. I've brainstormed a little bit, but can't really think of anything that's lint-free or smoother than my finger to apply these last coats. Any ideas?

Thanks everyone.
 
I use cheese cloth. Something I heard about and tried was to spray the final coat with Minwax satin polyurethane. I lay down several coats of Tru-oil then let the last coat dry overnite, then the next morning I spray a light coat of satin poly. They seem to bond and the finish looks like a factory job. I have not had any problem with the finish coming off or doing anything crazy. I can't remember where I found the idea, but it works.
 
That's interesting on the polyurethane. I was wondering how durable the Tru-Oil would be, and I'm sure that polyurethane will take a beating; my desk sure has and still looks good.

I'll give it a go with cheesecloth tomorrow. I've been letting each coat dry 24 hours. Taking a while, but that's okay. Still have to file down the front sight so I'll be tinkering for a while.

Thanks for the passing along the tip!
 
I put the polyurethane finishes on first, let them dry thoroughly for weatherproofing and finish up with the Tru-oil being sure to knock it back with fine steel wool after each hand rubbing out.
It slowly builds up and after about half a dozen applications begins to look like it should.
 
I'm not saying you are doing anything wrong. My friend Joe used the heel of his hand to apply the Tru-oil, didn't overcoat it with anything, and he had some of the most beautiful stocks I ever saw. He would rub them down with rottenstone to get the finish he desired.
 


This has several coats of Tru-Oil and a final coat of Satin Min-Wax poly. It gives it a factory look finish with low sheen. No buffing, just fast and simple.
 
That looks like factory alright. Gorgeous rifle. Thanks for sharing. Might end up doing the polyurethane. If nothing else it'll give it some added protection
 
What you have done is probably a great idea.....for that gun. But, if I were going to put a finish on a gun that I wanted to look H.C., but using a modern product, I'd just apply, using my fingers, many (approx. 10) coats of Tru Oil, Linspeed or even a 50/50 cut of Varithane cut with mineral spirits. You will end up with a very shiny finish but after a reasonable curing time of about a week, you can rub it down with a Birchwood Casey product called Stocksheen (or maybe it is Stock Sheen, two words :idunno: ) Anyway, after doing a careful and thorough rubbing with the Birchwood Casey product, you will end up with a magnificient soft luster that looks just like an original linseed oil finish. Only this finish will far outlast a linseed oil finish and drying time is a fraction of that of linseed oil. You can use 4 ought steel wool and some mineral oil for your final rubdown but you will have to go very easy so you don't cut through your finish. Steel wool, even 4 ought with oil, can be pretty aggressive if you are not careful. Rub lightly and keep a rag handy to frequently wipe the oil off your work area so you can see how the rubdown is coming.

Note: I have, in the past, used a mixture of rotten stone and mineral oil to do the final rub instead of the Stock Sheen. Some use water but I prefer oil. It works about as well but the only problem is that when I went to buy some rotten stone recently, it was hard to find and when I did find some, it came in a container larger than I would use in 6 lifetimes and cost far more than I remembered it the last time I bought some. Unless you have a friend who has some and will give you a handful, I'd go with the Birchwood Casey's Stock Sheen.

Whatever you choose for your final rubdown, you will need to work on a relatively large area at a time and make frequent checks to be sure that you are rubbing it down evenly all over and not leaving an uneven patchy look.

That's just the way I do it 'cause it works for me. It surely ain't the only way to do it, but I think it is the best. But, that's just me. Take it for what it's worth.
 
Like Bill, I have used Rottenstone, Stock Sheen and other things like steel wool to take the bright shine off Tru Oil finishes. Stopped using them some time ago, though.

Most of the Big Box Hardware stores carry a Light Grey Abrasive "Scotch Brite" type abrasive pad, but the abrasive on the Light Grey Pads is supposed to equal OOO Steel Wool. I have personally found it is more like OOOO Steel Wool. These pads are much easier to use and reuse than rottenstone or steel wool or anything else. They are found in the Paint Section of Loewe's, Home Depot, etc. Using the Light Grey pads give an extraordinarily pleasing "glow" to the finish vs the really shiny normal finish - after using the Light Grey Pads and then rubbing the dickens out of the finish with a Terrycloth cloth.

BTW, the White Pads that are also found there are supposed to equal 0000 Steel Wool, but are a bit less abrasive than that. When I first began using them, I tried the White Pads, but found the Light Grey Pads the most useful.

Gus
 
Seeing I don't like shiny surfaces on guns and won't use extra time to "cut back" a shiny finish, I use 2 different finishes to produce a very dull surface which requires a bit of rubbing to bring out some lustre.....and really protects the stock from moisture. It also looks like there's mo finish on the wood because it's mainly in the wood....Fred





 
I totally agree, with responses about other finishes, but the OP already has 3 coats of Tru-Oil on the gun, and asked about that type of finish.

That's not the finish, that I put on my flintlocks.

I was showing how Tru-Oil and Poly can be used to create a TC type factory looking finish. I picked the idea up on another web sight. I can't remember the source.

No rubbing, just too simple, for people to believe. I had to personally show that finish to Tip Curtis, before he would believe it. His response was something like, "Oh well,... well that does look good on that rifle." I'm sure when I said Tru-Oil and Poly, his eyes rolled back in his head, but seeing is believing. This finish is more for CVA's and TC's and such.
 
Here's the final product. 2 coats very dark walnut stain, 6 coats Tru-oil, and 2 coats minwax polyurethane. This thing was beat up when I got it. Looks tolerable now picture
 
Looks as good as you can get Spainish wood to look.

From one WV mountain man to another......Good shooting.
 
I hear that. Morgantown here. Thank ya. It's a point of pride that WVU's mascot shoots a muzzleloader every touchdown. Got to love that.

I found the guy that builds them for the Mountaineer actually. Plan on giving him a call soon. Mountain Rifle Shop in Morgantown.
 
Well gents she's tolerable to look at and I got 5 shots off before dark without a misfire and a perfectly acceptable grouping. Reckon that's a success!

Thanks for the advice. That polyurethane held up very well during the cleaning.

Many thanks everyone
 
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