Stock polish?

[robtattoo]

This is something I've never really had to do before....

My new rifle has a maple stock, finished with linseed oil (3 coats, if it makes any difference) & currently it has a very dull, matt finish. Buffing it with a soft cloth gives it a slight sheen, but I'm wanting to get it just a little shinier & get that warm luster I keep seeing on other folk's guns.

Does anyone have any recommendations to a good polish that is compatible with Linseed, or will any solid wax polish do?
Also, would a wax polish help to protect the wood from moisture, or should I keep oiling it every now & then?

 

[BrownBear]

"Polishing" works best if you let it get really hard first. In fact, if it isn't hard enough you could "pill" it and cause the finish to roll off.

If it's good and hard you can lightly buff it with 4/0 steel wool to knock off the minute high spots. Some guys follow that with rotten stone. But when I want a high polish I use stock rubbing compound made by Birchwood Casey. I'm not sure it's available any more, but I have a good stock left over from my days of making CF stocks.

 

[Bill Hall]

You might try some polishing rouge. It's used to shine up jewelry. My mom made jewelry when I was a kid, and she had some in powder form, but I don't know where she got it. Now I just use the rouge polishing compound in stick form, used for charging a buffing wheel, and rub on a soft cloth. I use it on other woodworking projects, so it should work fine to shine up your stock. Bill

 

[robtattoo]

Thanks guys, but I was really thinking more of a furniture wax type of polish, just to give the stock a sheen. I'm not wanting to fully rub the rifle down.

 

[BrownBear]

Thanks guys, but I was really thinking more of a furniture wax type of polish, just to give the stock a sheen. I'm not wanting to fully rub the rifle down.

You actually use the BC compound like a wax. Put it on a soft rag and polish away, the amount of the sheen depending on how much you rub it. I use it to follow up the steel wool, but in your case the steel wool may be enough.

In any case, you might want to simply try waxing it to see if in fact the dulness is due to the smoothing you've already done. No harm in trying.

 

[Robby]

robtattoo, This stuff is what the pro's use, "Renaissance Wax", just google it and you'll find all kinds of distributors. Minwax makes a hardwood wax that is available in most hardware stores, but it is not a good, in my opinion.
Robby

 

[rafterob]

With linseed oil and wax finish you will not get a high shine, it will be more of a matte finish. Yes use any furniture type paste wax to cover the linseed oil finish. That helps to make it more water resistant. I found that out the hard way.Had finished my rifle with 8-9 coats of hand rubbed BLO, took it shooting and during the cleaning process dripped fouled water all down the butt stock. Nice stained streak :cursing: Good thing is, that finish is easy to re-do.

 

[Kentuckywindage]

Truoil in the spray can works great. Just steel wool your current finish, wipe it clean and give the stock about 5 coats of the truoil and then you can buff it down to your liking.

 

[Coot]

A wax used by a number of antique dealers is Briwax. It is a blend of beeswax and carnauba. I don't know how it will do in rain but it has done well on a number of pieces for me.

 

[Birddog6]

Briwax will spot when it gets rained on.

I use Howard's Paste Wax in Walnut color. It will shed the water & does a beaut of a job on gunstocks. I fill all the pin holes, barrel channel/barrel fits, etc with it. Have used it for years & it seems to hold up better than anything I have tried.

Keith Lisle

 

[ebiggs1]

I use plain ole John's Paste Wax, the yellow can stuff. I put right over the barrel and brass parts, too. I don't like, or use, BLO so I am not sure how it is over it. But over tung oil it is great.

 

[Naphtali]

My shooting partner owns three C. Sharps rifles and has just ordered an ungodly expensive Shiloh Sharps with presentation grade wood.

On theses works of art he uses something called Renaissance Wax. Apparently, this product is preferred by museums to protect and maintain inventory made of wood OR metal.

He showed me information from the manufacturer. I was impressed enough to begin using it on my long guns. I will be used on the Shiloh 1863 I have ordered.

Hope this helps.

 

[Snow on the Roof]

Briwax will spot when it gets rained on.

I use Howard's Paste Wax in Walnut color. It will shed the water & does a beaut of a job on gunstocks. I fill all the pin holes, barrel channel/barrel fits, etc with it. Have used it for years & it seems to hold up better than anything I have tried.

Keith Lisle

Keith is this product available over the counter or do you order direct?

Snow

 

[Birddog6]

We didn't have it locally so I Googled it & found a place to get it from.

Keith Lisle

 

[Birddog6]

The Renaissance Wax is a very good wax & will keep the finish up & also keep it looking PC. Lots of museums use it. From what I have used of it, it doesn't appear to make a sheen at all, but keeps the old look like you would want on an antique. It is also quite expensive, considering the amount you get for the $. How well it holds up to weather I can't say, as I have just used it on old guns that were kept inside.

Keith Lisle

 

[Rifleman1776]

I do woodturnings and, on some items, use a caranuba based wax marketed to those with very expensive cars. It is "Top of the Line Trade Secret Wax". An 8 oz. can costs about $50.00. It will protect yer rifle, wood and metal, no doubt.
Very fine product.