I also use BriWax. Excellent stuff. Semper Fi.
-
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
Waxing rifle stocks
- Thread starter Mike in FL
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
Four ounces. I've had my cute little can about 12 years now. About half full - I keep the same application cloth, use it over and over. That stuff dries hard and fast, lasts a long time.
And yes, the barrel and other shiny bits get waxed also - about three coats on the bottom of the barrel before pinning it in.
The following is my opinion, and not based on facts. Just a lifetime of observation.
When it comes to firearms and tools, oil and wax have their place. If it's used often, an oily rag at the end of day and a quick wipe will keep metal in good condition. Those silicone impregnated cloths the same way. The oils do not hurt the wood unless it gets soaked in it.
Not all oils are the same. Everyone has their favorite. Or favorite today. Rem Oil is mentioned often. Great for that frequent wipe. But I consider it too thin to rely on for long term. More of a solvent. It will evaporate too soon to suit me. A thicker gun oil works better for me. Right now I am using Lucas.
I use wax on firearms that see infrequent use, and for initial protection. Wax on wood can enhance the sheen over time. But what I am wishing to prevent is water getting into the wood before I can shield it. And the real threat, is those small rust pits often seen on firearms stored and forgotten. Or those in a safe that the humidity was not well controlled. I have seen too many safe queens that were covered with little pits in the bluing. I think that wax may help to prevent those pits from forming.
Renaissance Wax seems to be good. It's a soft wax. Used sparingly. Has a petroleum scent that will fade. I have been using Alfie Shine. Meant as a tool wax. Has a clove-like scent, also unscented, and is harder than Ren. Wax. I like to wipe it on firearms and tools that have been warmed in the sun. Then buff it in. I do not worry about mixing wax or oils. I have not tried any yet, but Odie's Oil and Wax finishes look interesting.
When it comes to firearms and tools, oil and wax have their place. If it's used often, an oily rag at the end of day and a quick wipe will keep metal in good condition. Those silicone impregnated cloths the same way. The oils do not hurt the wood unless it gets soaked in it.
Not all oils are the same. Everyone has their favorite. Or favorite today. Rem Oil is mentioned often. Great for that frequent wipe. But I consider it too thin to rely on for long term. More of a solvent. It will evaporate too soon to suit me. A thicker gun oil works better for me. Right now I am using Lucas.
I use wax on firearms that see infrequent use, and for initial protection. Wax on wood can enhance the sheen over time. But what I am wishing to prevent is water getting into the wood before I can shield it. And the real threat, is those small rust pits often seen on firearms stored and forgotten. Or those in a safe that the humidity was not well controlled. I have seen too many safe queens that were covered with little pits in the bluing. I think that wax may help to prevent those pits from forming.
Renaissance Wax seems to be good. It's a soft wax. Used sparingly. Has a petroleum scent that will fade. I have been using Alfie Shine. Meant as a tool wax. Has a clove-like scent, also unscented, and is harder than Ren. Wax. I like to wipe it on firearms and tools that have been warmed in the sun. Then buff it in. I do not worry about mixing wax or oils. I have not tried any yet, but Odie's Oil and Wax finishes look interesting.
As many of you know I have been around antique firearms for 83 years (my whole life) my family has been dealing in antiques of everything. Clothing to Weapons and everything in between.
They have used a number of oils and waxes to help with finger prints on fine finishes (as you know our finger oils can destroy old items), seems they were changing to different brands as time passed looking for a better product. And I have done the same, old wood is like old documents, (very fragile when handled). Most of your museums and antique dealers have been providing gloves to those wanting to hold a valuable piece.
We have found a quality product "Howards Feed~N~Wax", a wood polish & conditioner. It's made with orange oil and beeswax. I know of a half dozen collectors and at least that many museums have started using this product. Only time will tell just how good this wax really is ...
They have used a number of oils and waxes to help with finger prints on fine finishes (as you know our finger oils can destroy old items), seems they were changing to different brands as time passed looking for a better product. And I have done the same, old wood is like old documents, (very fragile when handled). Most of your museums and antique dealers have been providing gloves to those wanting to hold a valuable piece.
We have found a quality product "Howards Feed~N~Wax", a wood polish & conditioner. It's made with orange oil and beeswax. I know of a half dozen collectors and at least that many museums have started using this product. Only time will tell just how good this wax really is ...
Amazon doesn’t list whether a product is no longer made. If Amazon can’t get a product they just say that it’s unavailable.
Wood is dead it doesn't need to be fed! Nonsense marketing...
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2017
- Messages
- 32
- Reaction score
- 39
The usual way is to use mineral spirits (white spirits if you are from the UK). Either fold your rag over to a fresh spot frequently, or switch to a fresh rag as you work on different areas so that you are not just redistributing the wax to a new area but are removing it. Most stores that sell paint will have mineral spirits in quarts and gallons. Look for generic paint thinner (not the "green" enviro substitutes). It should somewhere on the container say "100% mineral spirits". There will be a lot of other stronger solvents there, but they are nastier to work with and more flammable.
I was watching the PBS program Antiques Roadshow and one of the experts said that a rub with mineral spirits was the best (least invasive) way to clean old dirt-imbedded wax from antiques with little likelihood of causing any damage. It would be a good idea to wear gloves and provide some ventilation. I've never been able to remove stain from wood with mineral spirits but who knows what homebrew finish may be on your gun. A test in an inconspicuous area would be prudent.
I was watching the PBS program Antiques Roadshow and one of the experts said that a rub with mineral spirits was the best (least invasive) way to clean old dirt-imbedded wax from antiques with little likelihood of causing any damage. It would be a good idea to wear gloves and provide some ventilation. I've never been able to remove stain from wood with mineral spirits but who knows what homebrew finish may be on your gun. A test in an inconspicuous area would be prudent.
True. However, a quick web search showed me that the product ceased production in 2021 though.
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2013
- Messages
- 665
- Reaction score
- 937
You got a Huge can!
Mine says 65 ml (1.298 us ounces)
Attachments
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2013
- Messages
- 665
- Reaction score
- 937
I bought some Feed n Wax-
In the hopes wood would grow back where I got too excited removing it.
Hasn’t happened yet…
I got lucky and found a can of Johnsons paste wax at a mom and pop hardware store for $7 this spring. I can see the bottom on the can on my can at home. It has lasted over 20 years, this new can will out live me.
Anymore if you really like a product you better stock up as much as you'll ever use the way they discontinue products left and right anymore. About like Fromby's Tung Oil finish, Minwax bought them out and shut down the line.
Anymore if you really like a product you better stock up as much as you'll ever use the way they discontinue products left and right anymore. About like Fromby's Tung Oil finish, Minwax bought them out and shut down the line.
Was wondering if you use an oil hand rubbed finish on a gun stock, then one day you decide to wax that stock, would adding an oil rub afterwards be a waste of time seeing that the wax would prevent an oil from getting into the wood?
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2018
- Messages
- 3,866
- Reaction score
- 2,898
It depends on how wax is applied.
Was can be used as a wood sealer, but it’s usually infused with another oil such as linseed oil.
True and True does make a bees wax based varnish that is very thick and durable.
Rennesance Wax is a petroleum based product that acts as a moisture repellent.
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2005
- Messages
- 110
- Reaction score
- 129
Excellent product. Been using it for several years!
That's true, about the marketing claim anyway, because it's the finish that needs to be "fed" from time to time, though the term I'd use is "refreshed". Oil finishes degrade over time with use and exposure. The only finish that doesn't is polyurethane, and I'd sooner give a gun away than put that on its stock.
Last edited:
I think wax mainly pleases the eye. One of the gun companies I worked for set me to testing various gun finishes, to find the most water resistant. End result, linseed oil was the worst, Weatherby type finish probably best, but none tested were impervious to water. We settled on Hunter's Shack spray type from Brownell's as best for our purposes.
- Joined
- May 24, 2005
- Messages
- 5,481
- Reaction score
- 5,285
Seems many of us - including myself - like Ren-Wax. Especially on antique guns/stains. Works well on metal also. A thin coat brings out the color/stain, without attracting glare or light reflection.
Rick
Rick
Not being a real gunsmith, but having fixed a few stock over the years I have a simple rule. I never put on an original stock something that hasnt been put on it before. I do however experiment a bit on newly manufactured stocks (replicas). For example I have a 1887 Martini Henri that had a rotting stock with traces of wax. After cleaning and oiling it I made the finish with British made gunstock wax, while my German made oiled stocks would only get oil, and shelacked stocks were redone with Indian shelack. There is no universal finish to fit them all. Austrian stocks are waxed (sort of) and French are (mostly) a huge mystery .)
Similar threads
