I need to repair the stock of an antique gun and am looking for advice on the best product to use. The stock has a small chunk missing. Can I use "wood putty" like Minwax puts out or "wood epoxy paste" from PC Woody? What do you guys with years of experience recommend?
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stock repair
- Thread starter vtbuck223
- Start date
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It would be better to leave the gun as is then use wood putty. Small dents, and some missing wood is part of the guns history, and repairing may take away from its value.
If you must make the repair then the proper thing would be to use the same species of wood to make the repair. Add on the new piece of wood, shape it to match then stain/age it to match the patina of the gun.
If you must make the repair then the proper thing would be to use the same species of wood to make the repair. Add on the new piece of wood, shape it to match then stain/age it to match the patina of the gun.
The NRA has a third magazine" Men at Arms, which is devoted to collecting antique guns. There are a lot of dealer ads and some of them may offer help. There used to be another magazine- The Gun Report, but I don't know if it is still published.
NOTHING LOOKS WORST that wood putty plugging up a hole. My advise- leave it alone.
NOTHING LOOKS WORST that wood putty plugging up a hole. My advise- leave it alone.
Thanks for your advice. I agree that holes and dings are usually to be left alone. However....this is not just a hole or ding as you can see in the picture...and repair is more about protecting the piece as it is cosmetic. The stain of the rifle is very dark...so matching...no matter what is used should be fairly easy. I definitely can work a piece of wood to the proper shape....and it sounds like that is what everyone is recommending. What kind of glue do you use? Do you have a particular brand that you prefer for this kind of work? I really appreciate your help.
I have done custom furniture building & repair for many years, so I see some parallels here. I can do very good repairs, but I am not a furniture conservitor (sp?). Despite my good intentions, my repairs could considerably reduce the value of a good antique. If a client presents a piece, for repairs, that I feel might have good antique value, I insist they have it appraised first and explain why. If they don't want to bother and still want me to procede, I put my reasons in writing and they sign it as a contract.
If what you have does not have good antique value & is just an old gun you want to fix up, you can procede with repairs.
It appears there is some glue or finish on the broken surfaces. This will need to be removed to bare wood so new glue will stick to it. BUT, read all instructions first. The easiest way to fit a patch is to a flat surface. In this case you will need to cut a groove, removing the least wood possible. Use a flat, scarey sharp, chisel & pare away the broken surfaces. You want the new surfaces to be flat and oriented to each other so you can fit a patch in. Ajacent surfaces do not need to be at right angles to each other, but if they can taper in as you get closer to the lock mortice, you will find it easier to fit the patch if it is tapered to match and slipped in from the back. The tighter you can fit the patch, the less noticable the glue line will be. The patch will run into the lock mortise. Do not attempt to shape it to the lock mortise or stock profile until after it is glued into place. If there is a small break running off the large one, you may want to patch in 2 stages. When you glue the patch(es) in place, clamp, if possible. If you can, match & orient the grain of the patch to the stock for a less noticeable repair.
My tiredness is starting to kick in & I'm starting to ramble. If you have questions, fire them back. Maybe tomorrow I can add more.
Paul
If what you have does not have good antique value & is just an old gun you want to fix up, you can procede with repairs.
It appears there is some glue or finish on the broken surfaces. This will need to be removed to bare wood so new glue will stick to it. BUT, read all instructions first. The easiest way to fit a patch is to a flat surface. In this case you will need to cut a groove, removing the least wood possible. Use a flat, scarey sharp, chisel & pare away the broken surfaces. You want the new surfaces to be flat and oriented to each other so you can fit a patch in. Ajacent surfaces do not need to be at right angles to each other, but if they can taper in as you get closer to the lock mortice, you will find it easier to fit the patch if it is tapered to match and slipped in from the back. The tighter you can fit the patch, the less noticable the glue line will be. The patch will run into the lock mortise. Do not attempt to shape it to the lock mortise or stock profile until after it is glued into place. If there is a small break running off the large one, you may want to patch in 2 stages. When you glue the patch(es) in place, clamp, if possible. If you can, match & orient the grain of the patch to the stock for a less noticeable repair.
My tiredness is starting to kick in & I'm starting to ramble. If you have questions, fire them back. Maybe tomorrow I can add more.
Paul
I would scrape the old glue out with an Exacto knife blade tip, fit a piece in there & glue it in with Elmers Stainable Wood Glue. Clamp it in snug. Then recut the lock inlet & shape the outside to the original shape, stain & finish.
Keith Lisle
Keith Lisle
Tarl said:
Yes, but not Titebond III it dries dark, not attractive.
I prefer Titebond II.
