Stretching a ramrod.

[Whitworth]

While Mr. Hoyt is lining and stretching my 1842 Harper's Ferry barrel back to length I need to stretch the ramrod back too. Anyone ever do this? Braze or MIG a butt joint? Thought about trying this, a M16 cleaning rod is couple thousandths over the ramrod's diameter so that's good raw material. I can turn the 1842 ramrod down to the proper diameter (that will be fun to set up) and thread of the M16 rod. I can then screw on the ramrod and soft solder it in place. If I use the female end of the M16 rod I will have to turn and thread the ramrod end for fitting jags. If I butt weld or braze then can use the male end of the rod already threaded for Uncle Sam's modern accessories. Thoughts anyone?

 

[appalichian hunter]

Seems like a lot of work, and possibly weak spots in the rod down the road, when you could just do a search and find maybe a original or repro.

 

[ohio ramrod]

Have you considered drilling and taping both pieces and using a long set screw to screw them together?

 

[Loyalist Dave]

While Mr. Hoyt is lining and stretching my 1842 Harper's Ferry barrel back to length I need to stretch the ramrod back too. Anyone ever do this? Braze or MIG a butt joint? Thought about trying this, a M16 cleaning rod is couple thousandths over the ramrod's diameter so that's good raw material. I can turn the 1842 ramrod down to the proper diameter (that will be fun to set up) and thread of the M16 rod. I can then screw on the ramrod and soft solder it in place. If I use the female end of the M16 rod I will have to turn and thread the ramrod end for fitting jags. If I butt weld or braze then can use the male end of the rod already threaded for Uncle Sam's modern accessories. Thoughts anyone?

So when you say "stretch" the barrel..., how much length is going to be added? Is a barrel extension being welded on and then Mr. Hoyt is going to line the whole assembled piece? I'm assuming it's going back to it's 42" barrel length?

Have you considered using or adapting a repro ramrod from a different or longer musket?
I ask as the Pedersoli Brown Bess has a 41.75" barrel, and the Pedersoli 1795 Springfield musket has a 44 11/16" barrel. The Bess ramrod is two piece. The tip is a button, and they are notorious for coming off. Perhaps you could simply adapt the tip from your 1842 musket and replace the tip on the Bess ramrod, and use that ( IF you don't simply use the 42" Bess ramrod as is)? The 1795 Springfield is even longer, and you might be able to simply cut that ramrod down to the desired length and then slap a die on the end to thread it for the use of a worm.

LD

 

[oldwood]

Track has replacement steel rods

 

[Whitworth]

Thanks for the replies guys. I'm not sure which method he uses to stretch the barrel. The man was busy and I didn't ask a lot of questions. Getting a repo rod is simple but I would like to restore the original. This Harper's Ferry musket is special to me since Harpers Ferry and the Potomac River that powered the arsenal are only spitting distance away across the river. Went by the ruins of the arsenal and the dam across the river for years when I was a railroader from 1981-89 on the B&O. After sleeping on the idea think I'll try butt brazing the joint first, when dressed down it should only show a very thin brass ring. Properly done a brazed joint is hell for strong and will pull base metal away when forced apart. I'll be using a range rod to load it, the original ramrod will be just for looks. Worst I can do is make it even shorter and have to start again

 

[Barry Strickland]

Go for it! I prefer to use silver solder on steel parts. Silver solder will run like alcohol on properly prepared steel with flux. I prefer to braze cast iron with brazing rod. In either case laying the rod in a trough of angle iron will keep them aligned when making the joint. Either type of joint will work in what you are proposing.

 

[flntlokr]

Why not take to someone who can TIG weld it? Or go old school and forge weld it?

 

[springfield art]

Track has replacement steel rods

My M41 "Mississippi" rod from Dixie is about 1/16" too thin; nicely done tip, but the steel rod stock used would not hold up under regular usage; I'm keeping it as it won't get much use. My other repro Miss. has a noticeably thicker rod. Just for what it's worth.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Thanks for the replies guys. I'm not sure which method he uses to stretch the barrel. The man was busy and I didn't ask a lot of questions. Getting a repo rod is simple but I would like to restore the original. This Harper's Ferry musket is special to me since Harpers Ferry and the Potomac River that powered the arsenal are only spitting distance away across the river. Went by the ruins of the arsenal and the dam across the river for years when I was a railroader from 1981-89 on the B&O. After sleeping on the idea think I'll try butt brazing the joint first, when dressed down it should only show a very thin brass ring. Properly done a brazed joint is hell for strong and will pull base metal away when forced apart. I'll be using a range rod to load it, the original ramrod will be just for looks. Worst I can do is make it even shorter and have to start again

OK I fully understand.
OH if you wanted, I could maybe meet with you and your musket and bring along a Pedersoli Bess rod and an aftermarket rod for the Pedersoli Bess, for you to compare. The only thing that really makes a rod "authentic" for a lot of muskets is the tip, and if you have a rod with a proper tip it might simply be a question of swapping it with the factory Pedersoli rod tip, and voila, you're in business.

You were B&O.., and live near HFWV...my parents live in Brunswick, so I know where you are.

LD

 

[toot]

While Mr. Hoyt is lining and stretching my 1842 Harper's Ferry barrel back to length I need to stretch the ramrod back too. Anyone ever do this? Braze or MIG a butt joint? Thought about trying this, a M16 cleaning rod is couple thousandths over the ramrod's diameter so that's good raw material. I can turn the 1842 ramrod down to the proper diameter (that will be fun to set up) and thread of the M16 rod. I can then screw on the ramrod and soft solder it in place. If I use the female end of the M16 rod I will have to turn and thread the ramrod end for fitting jags. If I butt weld or braze then can use the male end of the rod already threaded for Uncle Sam's modern accessories. Thoughts anyone?

try S&S, firearms in NY.

 

[Whitworth]

OK I fully understand.
OH if you wanted, I could maybe meet with you and your musket and bring along a Pedersoli Bess rod and an aftermarket rod for the Pedersoli Bess, for you to compare. The only thing that really makes a rod "authentic" for a lot of muskets is the tip, and if you have a rod with a proper tip it might simply be a question of swapping it with the factory Pedersoli rod tip, and voila, you're in business.

You were B&O.., and live near HFWV...my parents live in Brunswick, so I know where you are.

LD
Give a shout out when you come up to Brunswick, maybe we could make a little smoke. The original rod has a graceful tapered tulip end and is one piece. It's the proper convex end for a smoothbore, not concave as on the rifled 1842s. To me is beautiful piece of mid 19th century work with the tapering so it's worth saving to keep it with the gun.

Go for it! I prefer to use silver solder on steel parts. Silver solder will run like alcohol on properly prepared steel with flux. I prefer to braze cast iron with brazing rod. In either case laying the rod in a trough of angle iron will keep them aligned when making the joint. Either type of joint will work in what you are proposing.

Great idea on the angle iron, I was thinking too hard on a jig

 

[troy2000]

Let me check. I think I might have a dusty old ramrod stretcher laying around somewhere in the back of my shop...

 

[Pete G]

Let me check. I think I might have a dusty old ramrod stretcher laying around somewhere in the back of my shop...

See if you also might have a shore line and a cannon report

 

[troy2000]

See if you also might have a shore line and a cannon report

I don't think so, but I'll look. Every now and then I uncover something, look at it and say to myself, "where the heck did I get this, and what on God's green Earth did I think I was gonna use if for?"

 

[Whitworth]

I don't think so, but I'll look. Every now and then I uncover something, look at it and say to myself, "where the heck did I get this, and what on God's green Earth did I think I was gonna use if for?"

You bought it at my Yard Sale and said "I might could use this".

 

[TBone]

While Mr. Hoyt is lining and stretching my 1842 Harper's Ferry barrel back to length I need to stretch the ramrod back too. Anyone ever do this? Braze or MIG a butt joint? Thought about trying this, a M16 cleaning rod is couple thousandths over the ramrod's diameter so that's good raw material. I can turn the 1842 ramrod down to the proper diameter (that will be fun to set up) and thread of the M16 rod. I can then screw on the ramrod and soft solder it in place. If I use the female end of the M16 rod I will have to turn and thread the ramrod end for fitting jags. If I butt weld or braze then can use the male end of the rod already threaded for Uncle Sam's modern accessories. Thoughts anyone?

MIG welding a piece on will work fine.

T

 

[Whitworth]

Well I made a jig out of angle iron like Barry suggested. I went one step further and ground a window thru the angle to allow welding

both sides.

Wrapped in Clorox soaked paper towel to age a bit after careful grinding and filing..

And done.