Stuck Ramrod

[cowpoke1955]

I get the same problem with my .54 T/C Hawkens when I use flannel for cleaning patches. Have to put pliers around the handle of my range rod and beat it out with a hammer. I switch to old t-shirts for cleaning and have no more problems. I understand thet T/Cs have shallower groves which may be the problem. Just a thought.

 

[Ace-Man]

One fiasco has led to another on this new 25 or so year old barrel. I was forced to try the grease gun trick and it worked. Theres not a queer bone in my body but I'd kiss the guy that came up with that Idea. Brilliant!Wish I had had thought of it. The problem was, all I had was Harley Davidson bearing grease in my gun. Found the zert fitting and started pumping. The jag was still attached to the rod. As I pumped it made a wierd squeeking sound everytime I pumped the gun. After using all of the new and expensive Motorcycle grease in the gun. It popped out. I was happy. Now, as I'm finishing getting all the grease out. The bronze bore brush detaches from it's crimped threaded screw into the rod piece. So I have the brush stuck all the way down the bore where the jag was previously and no way to remove it. :surrender: The lands in the barrel are still pristine. I got one of those CVA lights down the bore for a look just before the brush failure. Will the powder down the nipple hole blow out that brush?

 

[silverfox]

Oh the fun of stuck things down a bore. Yes you can try to blow it out. The sure fire way is to get a piece of tubeing copper or aluminum that is bore size. Run this down over the brush it will compress the brush inside the tube and you should be able to pull it out. Now you know why we don't use brushs that are swaged on.
Good luck.
Fox :thumbsup:

 

[tjohnson56]

I sure hope next week is better. :v

 

[WV MZL HUNTER]

I had the same trouble one time and I used dish soap and let it soak in for about 10 minutes.
It pulled out ok and I cleaned it with the same dish soap. :thumbsup:

 

[mazo kid]

Dont'cha just hate it when this happens??!! I broke a ramrod while hunting many years ago and by luck I ran into a friend (now) who had one of the CO-2 dischargers. I was so impressed that I bought one. It's been sitting in my shooting box ever since. Actually, the grease gun trick will probably be a lot less costly, and you probably won't have to fill the entire barrel up....just get the rod moving and keep trying to pull it out until it moves freely. Then do as others have suggested, get a relieved rod tip. Many times the patch will get hung up on fouling at the breech; for that reason I approach that area very gingerly, pumping the rod back and forth while advancing it slowly until I can feel the patch has cleaned that fouling. That usually does it and you can then use another patch without worry.

 

[Zonie]

Ace-Man
Is there any chance that someone is working some mojo on you? Have you noticed any small dolls around with pins stuck in them?

The old grease gun trick won't work on your brush because the grease will blow right thru it.
Likewise shooting it out or using a CO2 discharger won't work for the same reason.

Use the thinwall tube method that silverfox mentioned. You should try to get 7/16 diameter (.4375) tubing to fit your .45 cal barrel.
The only tough thing about this method is finding a piece of brass, copper or aluminum tubing that will closely fit the bore and will be long enough to reach the breech plug.
Remember, the thinner the wall the tubing has the better it works to capture the brush.
Also, the further you install (pound) it down over the bristles the better the chance of getting the brush back out of the bore.

 

[paulvallandigham]

How about trying to rotate that bore brush to the right, while you try to pull it out? My experience is that the bristles sometimes need a little help reversing directions, and that by twisting them, it alows them to pivot against the rifling and then reverse directions.

 

[Emet Huntsman]

How about crimping and pinning a shorter piece of tubing to a cleaning rod? All you would need is a piece long enough to cover the brush to capture it and pull it out. :2

 

[silverfox]

I don't know what length barrel you have but you might find and old alluminum arrow shaft that would work. Check if you have and archery shop around close. Even if they are short you can always add and extention on one end. Good Luck
Fox :thumbsup:

 

[Many Klatch]

Some of those brass bore brushes are meant for suppository guns. They work great if you can push it all the way through the barrel so that they pop out on the other side. With a muzzle loader the little darlings jam tight because they are a hair too long to flip over. I learned this the hard way too. I only use brass brushes on suppository guns.

Many Klatch

 

[Pork Chop]

If you have one that is too tight, there is a simple solution. Twist the rod slightly (in the direction to tighten the brush), and then pull...

 

[Ace-Man]

A hole bunch of FFFF out of the pan primer down the nipple hole and two caps. Blew the brush out finally. The barrel was purchased off the web. It's an early example that had never been fired. How could I say no? The bore is out of specs. Its diameter is a tad to small. I have three other .45's and the jag works perfectly. This .45, it's very snug? The bore has to be out of specs?

 

[Oldnamvet]

Kinda depends on what the specs were. It could be just at the absolute tightest end of the spec range. Every gun is an individual that has to be evaluated as to patch thickness, ball diameter, and .........cleaning jag. Glad you got it all taken care of. Sounds like it was a lot of work.

 

[paulvallandigham]

It may be, but until you measure the bore with calipers, you are only guessing.

Its just as likely that some idiot fired bare leak bullets in the barrel,and you have lead residue in the grooves and on the lands that is restricting the movement of your jag. Soak in Lead solvent if that is the case, and then use a good bore brush to remove the lead. Go easy and only do part of the barrel at a time. When the part closest to the muzzle is cleared, and the jag goes in easy, THEN, and ONLY THEN, do you move on down to the next section to remove the lead.

If its out of spec, the factory will stand by its product, and replace it.

 

[Ace-Man]

T/C has not offered this barrel for many years. I'm not sure how they could warranty this barrel. They are going to offer a .50 as a replacement and I already have a number of these. On the lead issue. How can It be leaded if I got it and It had never been previously fired :hmm: I fired this rifle this morning and again found the ball very snug inside the .010 prelubed patches. I can live with this and the fella that stated the barrel could be on the smaller side of the margin of error I think called it correctly. This is just a tight barrel. At fifty yards, the rifle fired a three shot group the size of a walnut. How can I complain. Thanks for all the input from everyone.

 

[Idaho Ron]

pushing a stuck jag out with a grease gun :applause: :applause: :applause:

That is the single neatest thing I have learned this week, maybe this month. THANKS!!! :hatsoff:
Ron

 

[musketman]

pushing a stuck jag out with a grease gun :applause: :applause: :applause:

That is the single neatest thing I have learned this week, maybe this month. THANKS!!! :hatsoff:
Ron

Now I am wondering, once the obstruction has been removed and you have a barrel full of greese, could you remove the greese fitting from the breech and use a rubber tipped air hose to blow the greese out?

Sure would save some time during the cleaning process and it might be fun to send a glob of greese flying accross the parking lot onto a car with an Obama for 2008 bumper sticker on it. (of course that would be an unsafe act, but it would still be fun)

 

[paulvallandigham]

Okay. I swore I would refer all further requests for legal advice on this forum to that great legal scholar, Roundball, but I will weaken this one time.

Since you didn't attend law school, You can't know anything about the Commercial Code, or the Implied Warranties for Fitness of purpose, which govern every product sold by manufacturers in the USA. In addition to the expressed life-time warranty that T/C is noted for on all its guns and parts of gun, there is also an Implied Warranty of Fitness for purpose that requires the Factory that made the barrel to stand behind what it has made and sold. It doesn't matter if you are the first buyer, or the 10th. If the barrel is not properly dimensioned, they need to make good on it.

The barrel didn't shrink after it was made. Its didn't tighten that bore after it was sold. It was made incorrectly. It got past the inspectors. It happens. The factory doesn't want barrels like that getting out its doors. It may not have even gone out the front door!

So measure the bore with calipers. If you don't have calipers, then stop by a local machine shop and ask them to measure it for you. Take a 12 pack of beer as a present to the guys and they will jump through hoops for you. Most machinists are gun nuts, too, and getting a chance to look at anyone else's gun is--well-- a lot more interesting than making the 5,000th widget that day. Once you know exactly what the dimensions of the bore are, you can call T/C, talk to them, and expect them to tell you to send the barrel back for a new one that is correctly dimensioned.

YOu should not have to use a smaller ball the size of .433 in order to be able to load and shoot that barrel, if its a .45 caliber. And a common .45 jag should not get stuck in that barrel, unless there is something down in the barrel, or its been bored too small. While you are measuring the bore, measure the Jag. You must may have an Oversized JAG???! :shocked2: :rotf: :hmm: :thumbsup:

 

[musketman]

If you don't have calipers, then stop by a local machine shop and ask them to measure it for you.

I would ask them first before walking through their door with a rifle in your hands. People tend to get a tad antsy these days. :haha: