made a batch couple of months ago shot it today i shot 1/2 in groops offhand at 25 but cant find receipt think it was alchol- witch hazel-castor oil ?? aney body got the amounts and ingredeants this is the best stuff in the world 25 shots no wipin help need to make more
-
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
stumpys moose snot
- Thread starter vinnynj
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
Ask, and you'll get a lot of grumblin . . .
Stumpy's Moose Milk
A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using
Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.
I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry between. Makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.
Stumpy's Moose Snot
A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block
Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.
Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.
Stumpy's Moose Milk
A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using
Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.
I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry between. Makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.
Stumpy's Moose Snot
A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block
Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.
Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.
montanadan
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2004
- Messages
- 383
- Reaction score
- 1
vinnynj- I used STUMPKILLERS liquid patch lube again this weekend. 50 cal shot 20 shots without wiping or cleaning, I did clean after the 20 shots, really did not need it. I was shooting 100yd off hand 80grns 3fg GOEX, the more I use this stuff the better I like it. Another shooter was using the New Le High Vally lube and was not nearly as good, about 10 shots and had to clean. The New Le High Valley lube smells like alcohol with a little pine-sol added, I use to use nothing but Le High Valley, they have changed something in the lube. He tried STUMPS liquid and had the same results I had, try it, even works well with SUB`s. Hope this helps..Respectfully Montanadan
montanadan
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2004
- Messages
- 383
- Reaction score
- 1
STUMPKILLER-Thanks again for your liquid moose milk. Remember you posted about the change in Le High Valley lube? Then you posted starting reference for duplicating the Le High Valley Lube, well I made up some that. Was not all that bad for patch lube(not nearly as good as your`s), but it sure works as a great cleaner! I mean this stuff REALLY cleans and no rust. Of course you probably already knew that. Here in Wyoming, a lot places we shooy are DRY, use to carry BUTCH`s with me to clean before going home. Well the other stuff(you get to name it) works just as well. Really a whole lot cheaper! Thanks again..Respectfully Montanadan(I hope I did not Hi-Jack vinny`s post!)
montanadan
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2004
- Messages
- 383
- Reaction score
- 1
MUSKETMAN- thanks..Respectfully Montanadan
mike alexandre
45 Cal.
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2005
- Messages
- 722
- Reaction score
- 0
Stumpy- Hi from old Jersey - I'm going to have a try at your mixture this weekend. I've got all the ingredients but could you confirm the onz you give - are they fluid onz or plain weight onz please. Thanks Mike :redthumb:
Fluid - based on a set of old measures THE ADMIRAL gave me after finding all kinds of goo & oddities on hers.
1/2 oz. = 1 tbsp = 3 tsp
1 oz. = 2 tbsp = 6 tsp
I keep a pound of beeswax in a metal container that I place in boiling water and pour what is needed when it melts. Measure the castor oil first and the wax won't stick to the measures.
Good luck. :redthumb:
1/2 oz. = 1 tbsp = 3 tsp
1 oz. = 2 tbsp = 6 tsp
I keep a pound of beeswax in a metal container that I place in boiling water and pour what is needed when it melts. Measure the castor oil first and the wax won't stick to the measures.
Good luck. :redthumb:
mike alexandre
45 Cal.
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2005
- Messages
- 722
- Reaction score
- 0
Thanks- I'm mixing as I write - dog and cat are looking very interested- hoping its not going on their dinner I presume.
No, just a voice crying in the wilderness ("Shoot real blackpowder!") and one of Claude's minions. I wanted something that didn't come in a plastic tube or smell funny and figured others would benefit from my findings.
eace: Similar threads
