Stupid refinishing mistake, need advice.

[bronko220002]

I'm with Oldwood. Steel wool is the way to go in refinishing and applying final coats. Followed by a wipe down with mineral spirits to remove any "grit" on the surface.

 

[Oldbear63]

Your health warnings are all probaly correct and acetone and other solvents can carry harmful chemicals into your body, but I like to remind people that acetone is actually a common part of your normal metabolism. That ketone diet everyone is talking about creates acetone, a ketone, and your body uses it for normal business.

Kind of like nicotine, not a carcinogen (though addictive to some) but it gets a nasty and underserved rep for cancer.

 

[Frontstuffer3491]

Being much more cautious, I have continued on with what I was doing, wet sanding back the top finish coats using 320 grit and alcohol. Keeping it wet allowed me to more easily monitor what was happening to the stain darkness as I went. This really did alot to help me highlight the bit of curl in my plain stock.

Tonight I rubbed in a very light first coat of Tru oil and below is the result. What do you guys think? I'm happy!

Chris

View attachment 194395

A pleasing result.

 

[reddogge]

Your project is done but I had a similar thing happen. My dad worked on this rifle in 1978 but never finished it and it lingered in my basement for the last 43 years. He didn't sand or prepare the stock for a nice finish so I had to strip it and start from scratch. I found cabinet scrapers the fastest method to take off a stained and BLO finish, not sandpaper. Then it was finished in aqua fortis and BLO.

 

[CuNosecap]

Nice save. Good looking rifle.

 

[Century to late]

Your project is done but I had a similar thing happen. My dad worked on this rifle in 1978 but never finished it and it lingered in my basement for the last 43 years. He didn't sand or prepare the stock for a nice finish so I had to strip it and start from scratch. I found cabinet scrapers the fastest method to take off a stained and BLO finish, not sandpaper. Then it was finished in aqua fortis and BLO.View attachment 260753View attachment 260754View attachment 260755View attachment 260756

Excellent work.

 

[Eric Krewson]

Just a tip; you can put dilute coats of Fiblings medium brown leather dye over a Tru-oil finish to match wood color, just put on a coat at a time, dry it with a heat gun until and put on enough coats until you have a match. When you are satisfied with the match put a few coats of Tru-oil over the stained stock to lock the added dye into place.

The bottom of this lock molding is a plain maple patch that I matched to the stock wood with leather dye after I had the first coats of finish on (I mixed medium brown and mahogany), I drew in the curl with undiluted leather dye and a fine artist's brush.

I am pretty sure I put some dye on the bare wood patch first before I applied any finish, it was a terrible match with the stock wood being very curly red maple and the patch being very plain sugar maple.

Before, what I started with, a very badly done precarve.

 

[oldwood]

I Promise , I will tell no living soul about the patch.. You have done well. I've looked at many European , and American guns with wood repairs. Hide glue was invented a long time ago in Europe , and used when needed in the gun craft business. No doubt , hide glue was imported into East coast ports early on. Another feature of hide glue , is it can be made into a fine powder , and mixed with water to render a tan colored glue , making it very portable. My dear old Dad had a paper canister of the powdered hide glue , and regularly mixed it up to fix broken double barrel shotgun stocks , during the pre epoxie days of early 1950's.