Super Glue and Stock Repair

[FishDFly]

Several years ago there was a good discussion on using Super Glue to repair cracks in stocks.

Most Super Glues a person finds in Walmart, Lowe’s and Home Depot are rather thick.

It was pointed out that a person needed “thin” Super Glue to flow into the cracks in stocks.

Anyone know of a source for thin Super Glue?
It seems that Hobby Lobby was mentioned.

Thanks

rde

 

[Dwight Rutherford]

Thin “Super Glue” can found at Woodcraft, Rockler,Amazon and at real hobby stores ( model airplanes, railroad, etc.)
Brand names-Hot Stuff, Starbond and others.

 

[Brokennock]

Ive had my best luck fixing cracks in wood with a brand called, "Zap-a-Gap." I've found it at several local hobby shops and model railroad shops so haven't looked for it online. It comes in a thick and a thin. Ive only used thin, be carefully with it, it runs like water so winds up places one doesn't want it, sometimes without knowing it got there til too late. Works great, I've used it on cracks and checks in the risers and limbs of all wood bows, and several other wood projects.

 

[don hepler]

Here's my take on glues. I build model airplanes. I use super glue on soft wood, like basla wood, where it's able to penetrate. I use two part epoxy on hard woods and plywoods. Epoxy comes in two bottles, for a reason. A chemical action takes place, which makes for a strong bond. Me personally, I would not trust super glue on an airplane engine mount or....a split gun stock. Not saying in won't work, but I would not trust it.

I have repaired gun stocks, using epoxy. However you must be able to spread the crack and get the glue down in the crack. Then it must be clamped, while it dries. You can wipe epoxy off of the wood using alcohol. You can thin epoxy with a couple of drops of alcohol.

Super glue will spread out into the fibers of the wood and you can not get it to take a stain. Just a little warning.

 

[Vaino]

I've made a few stock repairs using super glue and haven't had the least bit of trouble. You mentioned that super glue won't take stain.....I stain the wood before gluing and the super glue disolves the stain, becomes the same color and is nearly invisible after the final finish is applied. Naturally the stain used w/ the super glue is the same stain used for the final finish or a stain that's pretty close......Fred

 

[mooman76]

Gorilla glue make a thin glue that comes in a small container about the size of eye drop container. I don't know how well it would work on a stock though but works good on allot of other wood things. My dad used it when making pens on a lath. He would have to glue the wood blank with a brass sleeve inside. He also used super glue at times. It was good for filling small defects in the wood or cracks.

 

[Brokennock]

Epoxy can also be thinned with acetone and soaked into things, then the acetone dries/evaporates leaving the epoxy behind, some call it Massey Finish after the late Jay Massey. Might work on a crack depending where the crack is. Ive thought of trying it in the barrel channel of my Tule FDC which has a barely perceptible crack running from the front lock bolt forward and up into the fore stock heading for the edge, it's really only noticible if one overtitghtens the front lock bolt. I figure it will seal the wood in the barrel channel from water and such, and possible hold that crack closed from the inside.

 

[Black Hand]

You can warm regular super glue and it flows more readily...

 

[Spikebuck]

Loc Tite makes a thin and gel version. Amazon has all kinds of versions of Loc Tite super glue. I've used both and they work great. Plus I think they have about the best cover that keeps the glue in good shape for later vs drying out in the tube.

 

[don hepler]

Loctite, makes good products. You can actually feel the heat coming off the epoxy, when you mix it.

I like the Loctite bottle design, too.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

TIPS with epoxy products: Warm the wood, never the epoxy mix - which will cure the epoxy, giving you no time to work it - if not render it completely unusable.

Also wait for the wood to start cooling down before applying the epoxy, as microscopic air bubbles trapped in the wood are released upon heating or warming of the wood, and upon cooling, those spaces that the air was in, attempts to suck it back in, so this actually serves to draw the epoxy deeper into the fibers.

If you’ve ever seen a finish ruined by the ”˜orange peel’ affect, those are air bubbles forming under the curing finish that were released as the finish cured, even if it was just a natural warming from the day getting warmer. Whenever I finish something, and want the best finish possible, I wait until that time of the day has passed when the temps start dropping.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Lots of opinions. So, wats new about that? :wink:
Mine is different. I do some woodworking and have found most regular wood glues to be excellent for this sort of thing. My choice would be Tite Bond II. Strong and easy to use. I would shy away from TB III because it leaves a brownish glue line that does not take stain. Very strong but, IMHO, to be used only where the ugly factor is not important.

 

[MSW]

there are indeed several different viscosities of cyanoacrylate adhesives (aka "CA" or "superglue") if you want something which will 'flow' readily, you should check out the Penn State Industries website (they sell pen making stuff) ... here's a link: https://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKGLUE51.html
this stuff does have a shelf life (i was burned by this once- i was using the stuff as a finish and had to take a pen blank all the way down to bare wood) so, unless you use the stuff often, get the smallest amount you can ... there's probably some way you can make it live longer, but i don't know it.

good luck with your project!

 

[Davemuzz]

I had purchased a T\C Hawken stock from "a guy on the internet". Well...that was my first mistake. I ask if the stock was solid and no cracks, he said it was good. It wasn't. It had.....and I'm going off memory, at least 4 woodgrain cracks that ran from the wrist thru the forearm.

Well, I took a hypodermic needle, and with Elmer's wood glue (Yes....you can boo me if you like) I thinned out the Elmer's so it would flow well in a tiny needle. I "stuck" that needle in every crack I could find and "pumped" the glue in until it was running out the other side of the cracks. I then wrapped the stock in fat rubber bands and let it sit for a week.

When I installed the lock, barrel, and all standard Hawken parts I then shot about 100 rounds out of it. The stock held up great.

I sold the Hawken with full disclosure on the stock.

FWIW

 

[Rifleman1776]

IMHO, ye dun jest right. :applause:
Good fix. And, Elmer's is not bad stuff. It's just that there is better available these days.

Edit: If mine I might have added pins for strengthening. Brazing rod run through a thread cutting die makes a good, and very strong fix. The ends will show but can be sanded down smooth. And, IMHO, such a visible fix is not always a bad thing. To me, they are just part of the story of the life of the rifle. And visible 'braggin'' evidence ye dun this fix yerself.

 

[Vaino]

I've found that the "runny" super glue is more common than the gel or thicker stuff.

A few yrs back I rec'd a blank back from the person who does the bbl inletting and RR work and while inspecting his work, noticed that the 5/32" web was split for 6" from the muzzle end.

Applied stain on both sides of the crack, let dry and applied runny super glue { the gel type would have been better seeing the split was open} and lightly wrapped it w/ surgical tubing. Shortly the glue was set and built a Bucks County from the blank. Had no problems w/ the super glue holding and the split was nearly invisible after the final finishing was done.....Fred

 

[FishDFly]

Thanks to all for the information and insight.

rde

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Me personally, I would not trust super glue on an airplane engine mount or....a split gun stock. Not saying in won't work, but I would not trust it.

I've used super type glues and found when they were subject to a quick vibration, like being jarred or by the recoil of a gun, they did not respond well, and I think some of them become too brittle for firearm applications.

:idunno:

I have used epoxy and especially the Brownell's Acraglas product with very good results. It is in fact very much designed to withstand recoil. :wink:

LD

 

[Tinker2]

Well, I took a hypodermic needle, and with Elmer's wood glue (Yes....you can boo me if you like) I thinned out the Elmer's so it would flow well in a tiny needle. I "stuck" that needle in every crack I could find and "pumped" the glue in until it was running out the other side of the cracks. I then wrapped the stock in fat rubber bands and let it sit for a week.

Yep, me too.

Plan old white Elmer's wood glue is my glue of choice when it will work.
If not then epoxies.

I do use super glue in 4 different viscosities, Titebond and other glue for some things.
If it is a gunstock and the break is where recoil or shock can be present then no.

Elmer's wood glue and epoxies don’t get brittle like some others can.




William Alexander

 

[dragnetbill]

A few years back a friends son did a glue strength test for a high school class project. He glued pieces of scrap 2x4 together with various glues; inserted eye bolts; hung from the deck joists in the back yard; attached a bucket to the bottom eye bolt and began adding weight.
The last to give way was the plain white Elmer's.
Just for what it is worth.