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Super Glue and Stock Repair

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20 years of managing a gunshop with repairs done in house and out I found super glues great for the quick fix but they always let go in a year or two.

Elmer's has worked good for the wife's daycare projects and such but the yellow carpenters is better for cabinets and such but not gunstock repairs.

Commercial epoxy's rule for permanent.
 
flehto said:
I've made a few stock repairs using super glue and haven't had the least bit of trouble. You mentioned that super glue won't take stain.....I stain the wood before gluing and the super glue disolves the stain, becomes the same color and is nearly invisible after the final finish is applied. Naturally the stain used w/ the super glue is the same stain used for the final finish or a stain that's pretty close......Fred
I have had the same experience. I make knives and a lot of exotic woods used for the handles will have voids. The super glue is a standard remedy used by knifemakers to fill these voids. If you want to stain- as stated- do it first.
 
nhmoose said:
20 years of managing a gunshop with repairs done in house and out I found super glues great for the quick fix but they always let go in a year or two.
I have a repair made nearly 10 years ago that is still holding. The break must be cleaned well before gluing - I use acetone.
 
Woodturners use super glue for a number of things, including a great shiny finish on turned bowls. It is frequently used to repair cracks in wooden bowls, but it does not hold up to the stresses of thin wood expanding and shrinking with humidity.

As for staining, staining first is ok if you are not repairing something already stained and finished, or you are completely stripping and re finishing. Glue to fill gaps does not take stain and is noticeable. Where the thin glue can seep into a hair line crack fine. Even the thick stuff is no good at gluing where there are voids. I had great success fixing chunks tore out of walnut stocks by matching the grain from another piece of walnut and cutting the hole in the stock and the matched piece to fit nearly exactly, and then use epoxy, not super glue. I even glued a piece to the end of a trapdoor stock where somebody cut off the fore end. cut the old stock oblique and then selected a piece with matching grain, turned the grain the same direction and cut matching piece the same oblique angle and then inlet the new piece for the barrel and nose cap. I was able to finish the original stock and new piece (about 8 inches) such that even I had trouble spotting the repair. Super glue would never have held up for such repairs.

Wood turners often glue smaller contrasting blocks of wood into a larger piece for turning that leaves a fancy design. They use standard wood glue for gluing the segments because super glue does not hold up as well to holding the blocks together during the stress of turning.

Also, use care when using superglue, it gives off noxious fumes just by itself. Wood turners often use it in connection with a hardener and the fumes from that reaction can cause chemical burns to the nostrils.
 
Walks with fire said:
I am surprised that no one mentioned Acra-glass bedding compound. I have used it for bedding rifles and it works great. I never used it to fix a crack though.

When I say epoxy, Acra-glass is what I have use the most in the last 50 years

Elmer’s white is best for me fixing cracks, epoxy for filling internal voids.




William Alexander
 
Yeah, I prefer a good wood glue (currently Tough-bond) thinned with a bit of water for fixing cracks. It's supposed to be water proof when dried. I like to spread the cracks and blow in the thinned glue with compressed air.
After years of using Agra-glass for bedding all manor of gun-stock wood I recently switched to a new product called "Bedrock" by Miles and Gillbert. It allows you to mix the epoxy 1 to 1 adding small aggregate spheres called balloons to get any thickness you want from runny to gel.
It sets up just as tough and hard as does my old Agra-glass but is much more flexible in it's application of use.
You can get it from Midway USA.
I never cared for super glue on stock wood because it does not handle impact very well as far as I can tell. It has no aggregate in it to strengthen the body of the glue as does bedding epoxies through the use of flock or balloons.
 
You guys that had trouble with cyanoacrylate glues (CA) likely had one of two issues. The thick glue issue has already been addressed. The second is that thin CA requires a very tight joint in order to be strong. It does not bridge gaps and provide strength well at all and I mean any gap.
 
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