Surface drag marks,,Tip's, Tricks,,?

[necchi]

What's a good way to remove or cover/mask those darn marks?
There's gotta be something better than a basic cold blue cover band-aid, right?
I mean you can change the color easy enough, but that tiny scratch is still seen.
97`[BI] 58 Pietta, bought second hand with the marks already there, and a bought a second cyl,, with the same issue.
Just that light, blue removing little scratch!
The fix was made to the bolt fitment with light stoning years ago,(Thank you Mark), so they haven't gotten worse.
What do you discerning gentlemen do to help these poor neglected cylinders shine again?

 

[fishmusic]

So far I have just left them and chalk it up to giving the pistol its character. Have you tried buffing them out with fine grit wet dry sandpaper? It will require bluing the cylinder again but polishing should do the trick.

 

[andy52]

All revolvers will get them at some time in its life, no way to avoid it, or prevent it, short of not cycling the action.

 

[Old-Duckman]

I guess if the timing is perfect you will never get them but with respect to the wheel guns that I own (mentionable and unmentionable alike) I doubt that I have any that don't have the marks. I always put the hammer all the way forward on each cylinder and the trigger all the way back and try to rotate the cylinder, if I get little or no rotational movement...I'm happy.

 

[necchi]

Have you tried buffing them out with fine grit wet dry sandpaper?

Nope, I haven't,, figured I'd better ask before I open that can and step in it. Even rouge on a soft wheel will cut more blue off making a wider mark!
So far it 3 for 3 saying it's what happens, status quo. I'll accept that.
What has me stumped then, is how are all the photo's of second hand revolvers for sale,(even here) showing pristine cylinders?
Help me understand guy's, is cold blue really just a marketing tool?
Every trader that has seen my revolvers, always point out those scratches, but when your buying and ask why the gun smells like copper, they play dumb.

 

[DOUBLEDEUCE 1]

Look at it as honest wear and character. I have an unmentionable that was worked over by the boys in Quantico Virginia. It is beautiful and runs crisp and slick as ice. But after many years it has some drag marks. Others that I have in stainless, and worked on by some very talented folks, all have the cylinder rings. They were all work guns.

 

[45D]

Pure and simple, "Beauty rings" on Colt's and Colt type actions come from parts failure and/or mishandling. A soft cam will allow the bolt to start dropping sooner and sooner, not pulling the hammer back to half cock while rotating the cylinder, a broken /cracked hand spring will allow throw-by (over rotation), ill fitted bolts allowing insufficient lockup ( especially if you decide to play "cowboy" and "fan" the hammer or short-stroking the hammer while "trying "/"learning" the cowboy stuff).
After fully loading a cap gun, you should find "in between" the chambers (Colt or Remington type platforms) BEFORE lowering the hammer. If leaving an empty chamber, let it "carry up" to battery as normal or line it up "just before" battery if you let the hammer down from half cock and rotate the cyl into battery (the bolt head will be on the cylinder where it normally would already be).
Since you can't see the bolt on the cylinder, the timing mark for an open-top is the top left corner of the hammer slot through the recoil shield. The bolt should drop just before the notch reaches the mark, lockup is just passed the mark. This is for 6 shot revolvers. The mark for a 5 shot revolver is just passed the right side of the hammer slot.
So, correct timing and proper handling will keep "Beauty rings" off your cylinder.

Ruger Old Army's are the same action sequence as Colts but have a too weak hand spring setup to not allow throw-by to happen if the action is short stroked.

Mike

 

[Ed C.]

"Since you can't see the bolt on the cylinder, the timing mark for an open-top is the top left corner of the hammer slot through the recoil shield. The bolt should drop just before the notch reaches the mark, lockup is just passed the mark. This is for 6 shot revolvers." This is nice little gem of info from 45D. I'll also put some sort of ink on the cylinder slot lead ins to see exactly where the bolt is hitting. As you cycle the gun a few times it will wipe off the ink at the point of impact.

 

[45D]

Thanks Ed C, here's a couple of pics to illustrate.

Bolt drop position.

Lockup

Mike

 

[Crow Choker]

Good posts Mike (45D)-was thinking of the same before you posted. Says it all. Anyone wanting to check and or adjust the timing or watch what the bolt is doing on the cylinder Dykem fluid works very well. Have used a marker before getting Dykem fluid (blue ink liquid that dries fast and easy removal).

 

[Ed C.]

Thanks Ed C, here's a couple of pics to illustrate.

View attachment 197343
Bolt drop position.

View attachment 197344
Lockup

Mike

Thanks for the conformation. That is exactly what I have.