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swabbing between rounds

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but when was the last time anyone had a powder charge ignited by an ember?

There is an article in either the Dec/Jan Buckskinner or one of the most recent MuzzleBlasts (I forget which it was) about this very thing happening fairly recently. The poor guy nearly blew a ramrod through his hand. It was a fluke for sure, but it did happen. He was on a woodswalk type shoot and reloaded very quickly. He could only figure that there was an ember down there somewhere and as he pushed the ball home, it ignited the fresh charge. He wisely had his hand wrapped around the ramrod, not on top of it.
WJ
 
And it is very possible & probable the guy had the gun on full cock or possibly on halfcock position & had a broken halfcock notch on the tumbler or it didn't catch all the way... & that is what set the rifle off. After it happens, there is no real way to know what actually happened...
I have seen several rifles that had broken tumblers or halfcocks motches or the trigger/sear bar contact not be right & just a bump will set them off at halfcock... :m2c:

But it is always best to take the Safe route, and that being NOT to load from a horn or flask... :imo:
 
Years ago, I seen a fella "shoot" , then bring his rifle down and bring it to "full-cock" and "CAP" , sit the rifle "butt-down" on the ground and proceed to "load" .

I've always wondered "if" thet knuklehead was still "alive" today?????????????? :youcrazy: :youcrazy: :youcrazy: :youcrazy:

YMHS
rollingb
 
Years ago, I seen a fella "shoot" , then bring his rifle down and bring it to "full-cock" and "CAP" , sit the rifle "butt-down" on the ground and proceed to "load" .

I've always wondered "if" thet knuklehead was still "alive" today?????????????? :youcrazy: :youcrazy: :youcrazy: :youcrazy:

YMHS
rollingb

A prime candidate for the Darwin awards.


I think I see an experiment in the makings. Just how small of an ember on charcloth( maybe a single thread?) will ignite bp. I have a three day weekend if my FTNW doesn't come up with something for me do.
 
OK - I went out back this afternoon, in the brief lull between the howling gale and the thunderstorm (makes a change from minus 20), and shot 20 rounds of 50 gr FF beautifully. I did the following:

1) Really wet my cleaning patch with spit - damp all through, not dripping. Before this I'd just been lightly damping the centre (having read about the hydroscopic qualities of BP, I had been fearful of putting too much moisture down the barrel before loading - but in the event this doesn't seem to be a problem).

2) Swabbed right down to the breech from the first shot onwards.

3) Changed my jag to another I have which has edges more like the ones in the photo above. This seemed to bunch up the patch better as I withdrew it from the bore.

4) Paid slightly more attention to the touchhole, pricking it every two or three rounds.

I have a mark on my ramrod to show a clean 50 gr load, and noted after 20 rounds that it had risen only a couple of mm - so there didn't seem to be the progressive accumulation of gunk I had previously.

I now think I'll do even better with this problem when I change from 2f to 3f. I'll reserve judgement until I've had a chance to fire 30 or 40 rounds in one session, but at the moment I think all the excellent advice above has pretty well solved my problem. Having said that, I'm still intrigued by the 'patent breech' issue and other experiences people might have with this (I did fish with my ramrod before shooting and found nothing odd down there, no obstruction nor any problem hitting bottom).

Thanks all, this has helped no end. Now watch out for my next naive question ...
 
STRIDER-I have the same rifle in percussion. How does yours shoot? Pedersoli recomends .451rb, with .010 patch., just might make a difference in your fouling. Respectfully Montanadan.
 
Strider: Couple things that should help... Use the 3F in the rifle & also a tight ball/patch combo usualy burns cleaner as you don't get the blowby around the patching.
Load with a vent pick in the vent each time & you will not have to pick it. A large gem clip works well, as does the forged ones from TOW (best for me). I bend the last 1/2" of the pick into a arc, insert it in the vent with the tip going forward towards the charge. I have a pipe cleaner attached to the end of the clip & I wrap that around the Open frizzen. Don't push the clip in tight, just put it in.... Load & then when you are finished, just wrork the pick in the hole a little & remove & this inssures a clean vent hole every shot & keeps the flash channel open. I yave shot mine this way for years & years & seldom do I have a misfire....

As for the ramrod mark, I hope it is not a cotch or a cut, as that is where it will break if it breaks most of the time... I suggest a SS or Brass range rod with a bore guide on it for shooting at the range & save the wood one for hunting & less activity...... :results:

You get thru this & we will sharpen yor flints up next ! ha ha ! :: :thumbsup:
 
montanadan, I'll let you know in a month or two when I've got my rifle sighted in properly (some filing of the front sight still needed), started using the right powder (3f) and got the right load. So far I've put 211 rounds through it, but at least 100 of that was just beginner's excitement and I've only really just got down to the serious business of methodical shooting - I cleared 80 yds in our back bush, built a sand-filled wooden box to catch the lead and a moveable wooden bench. I've shot 5 round groups at 10 yd intervals to 50 yds with 40, 45 and 50 gr 2f - unsurprisingly 50 gr best, with one 50 yd 3 inch group with 2 bullseyes. Probably 55 gr will be better still, and 3f better still, so plenty of experimentation still needed ...
As far as all the other variables go, I've so far only used 440 ball with 015 patches, so I'll try your combination when I buy my next batch of ammo.
I like the general handling and weight of the rifle, and don't mind the fact that it's relatively short for a longrifle - though I'm really itching to try something like a Jim Chambers York for comparison.
 
There is a little more here to be said.

The purpose of a lube is to lube a patch or bullet and be there not only when rammed down the bore but after an hour or more still be there for the hunters shot.

When lube is used like Spit it has a habit of drying out not to soon after it is used/applied.
Once a shot is taken the fouling will be dry and hard difficult to remove and much more likely to support a ember.

When a modern lube like Bore Butter or CRISCO is used it blends in with the fouling producing a soft sort of blend of material which is pliable and moist which would tend to smother any embers or sparks.

All this talk of Spit lube or Spit Cleaning may be very manly and Adventuresome but it is probably best left to the past. I should like to think people in the past resorted to it only if no other lubes were available.
 
Bart could be right, but I don't think he understands me on this Crisco thing.

:winking:

At any rate, spit probably works ok at the range, but for hunting it might not be the best idea, which means you would be changing lube...which could effect POI. I don't remember if you mentioned hunting or not.

You might consider just trying some wonder lube or bore butter and see how it works. Can't hurt and you could always go back to spit.

A wonder-wad under the patched ball will also have an effect on fouling, reducing it quite a bit.

Rat
 
I very seldom do much paper punching type matches, only when there is nothing else available. Most are trail walks at metal targets. I do not swab between shots and can usually shoot a thirty shot match without doing so. If it ever became necessary to swab between each and every shot, changing jags while doing so, I would find a new hobby. I use my own concoction of Cat Whiz, one of the many variations of the ubiquitous Moose Milk. I never have used spit patches. I was at a meat shoot this past Wednesday evening and the temperature was 11 degrees when we finished. The guys using spit patches were having all sorts of trouble trying to load, the fouling becoming very hard and dry in the cold weather. Their patches would freeze to the end of the barrel when they laid them on to place the ball on. Kind of like your tongue freezing to the metal porch rail, when you were a kid. My thoughts are, if you use a good liquid lube containing some alcohol, this won't happen and will keep the fouling soft enough to load without swabing every time. If you are in a big paper match and have the time and feel it is needed, go ahead and swab. As for me, it's to much messing around for all the benefit derived. I won the High Primitive Agg at a fair sized rondy last year, using this loading method. My lube is equal parts Murphy's Oil Soap, Alcohol, Witch Hazel, and Olive Oil. Great stuff. :results:
 
Good information. I am planing (emphasis on that word) to go to, and shoot in, my first woods walk sometime in ealy February. The way the temperatures have been sticking in the painfuly cold area will be part of the challenge.
 
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