Switching triggers

[Ben Athens]

I would like to change my double set triggers for a single. Is this possible and how would I go about it ?

Thanks,

Ben.

 

[Bill Hall]

Why don't you tell us what kind of gun you have, or post a pic if it's a custom. Some Plains type rifles have long trigger plates that can't be changed out very easily. With some production models, it's just a matter of taking out a few screws. Everything else has difficulties that lie somewhere in between.

Just a thought, if you're satisfied with the way your front trigger feels in the unset postion, you can just remove the rear trigger and spring. You might have a little travel before you cantact the sear, but if that's not a problem, you have a simple fix, as long as it's a true DOUBLE set trigger. Bill

 

[George91946]

I've changed triggers both ways. It's a lot easier to go from double to single than the other way around. You are going to have to shop around for a trigger plate that fits the dimension of the double trigger plate inlettings. In my case, there wasn't one commercially available that I could find, so I made a single trigger plate from a piece of mild steel and bought a Haynes trigger from Track. The manufacture of the plate was pretty easy using just a file, a hacksaw, and a 3/32nd drill bit for starting the trigger slot.

The inletting from the double trigger was ample, and I didn't need to remove any more wood. In order to get the proper height of trigger, I measured from from the bottom of the plate to the bottom of the sear in the non cock position, and that dimension was what I used to get the pin properly positioned in the trigger and plate tab. I initially pinned the trigger too high on the tab, but filed it down so that there was just a small teeeny tiny bit of backlash when the trigger was pressed into the inletting.

I then drilled the back hole in the plate to match the corresponding position in the original double trigger plate, and then marked the corresponding front hole where the tang bolt screwed into the plate. I drilled to centers with the drill bit entering the bottom of the plate and aimed to the center of the tang bolt head. Tapped this and screwed in the tang bolt and everything worked fine.

As you do this work, be sure to match up the trigger guard with the new trigger in order to be sure that you have adequate clearance for the trigger pull. When you go from double to single triggers your clearance will usually be good, but if you go the other way, you need to get creative with the trigger guard in order to make room and not upset the original inletting.

I'm not close to being a gun craftsman, but the project came out very good, even for a hacker like me.

Lisle George

 

[Ben Athens]

The rifle is a Southern Rifle made by TVM. I bought it used and cleaned it up. Thing is I have small hands and don't reach the front trigger very well. I also prefer a single trigger for hunting.I removed the trigger and I think a new one would fit in if I knew which kind that I have.

 

[jerrywh]

Please send your double set triggers to me. Thanks.

 

[Zonie]

Although switching your rifle to a single trigger is not real difficult you say that the trigger reach is a issue.

With this in mind you should know that there is a limited area where your new trigger can be installed and end up with a good trigger pull.

To check out where this would be you should remove the lock from the stock.
Then place a 2 inch long piece of masking tape on the stock under the lock mortice.
Position the lock back in the location where it would fit back into the lock mortice and mark the location of the sear arm (the thing that sticks out inside the stock that the trigger pushes against) on the tape.

Measure 5/16 of an inch ahead of this mark (towards the muzzle) and make another mark on the tape. This is the location for the single triggers pivot pin.

Many simple triggers locate their actual trigger very close to where the trigger pin should be so you can use this mark to indicate where your trigger will end up by using this pin location as a reference.
If it is behind your double set triggers front trigger it would improve your trigger pull but if it is about in the same place as your double set triggers front trigger, changing the trigger won't improve what you already have.

It's just something to consider before putting a lot of time and some money into your project.

 

[J.D.]

Hmmm, are your hands too small, or is the LOP too long for you to reach the trigger comfortably?

Either way there are good directions for installing a single trigger in Mike Brooks building tutorial.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/tutorials/brooks/Brooks1.html

God bless

 

[Capt. Fred]

Yup, it might not be a simple as folks were hoping,now that the pull length issue is part of it. If the trigger pull is too long it introduces other issues.

Here's a couple of thoughts: Sometimes it is the shape of the trigger guard/bow that makes the pull feel too long. Have you experimented sliding your trigger hand around some to see if you can find a comfortable posistion? I have a gun where that really made a difference and now when I pick it up it's not uncomfortable at all. It is the same pull as my other guns but due to the shape of the guard it felt too long.

ALso, triggers are pretty easy to make so I wonder if it would be possible to make a trigger where the face of the trigger is actually well behind the pivot point. I'd have to scratch my head for a while to figure what effect this would have on the weight of the trigger pull. Maybe somebody else has done this and can comment.

 

[Ben Athens]

LOP is ok and not a problem. I just don't have long enough fingers to reach the front trigger well. Back trigger is fine so I thought a single would work.

I think the gun has L&R T-5 triggers. Going to swap them for a T-1600.

May have to add some wood and re-do the trigger area to make it fit.

 

[J.D.]

IMHO, that low stud on the 1600 trigger is not going to give you a decent trigger pull. IMHO, you would be better off by making a simple trigger and trigger plate and pinning the trigger higher into the stock.

Zonie gave good instructions on locating the pivot hole, as does Brooks gunbuilding tutorial.

You might have to inlet some wood into the existing inlet to avoid binding and to support the trigger pin, but it's doable.

God bless

 

[Ben Athens]

Thanks for all the input guys.

I took the trigger out of an old M/L that I had. Aafter some grinding and filing along with putting a filler block in. I now have a functioning single trigger.

Once I get it all cleaned up I will post a pic of it.

Thanks again,

Ben

 

[longcruise]

LOP is ok and not a problem. I just don't have long enough fingers to reach the front trigger well. Back trigger is fine so I thought a single would work.

If the rear set trigger is comfortable, then the solution would be a single trigger positioned in the same place as the set trigger. I have this same problem with Lyman GPRs.

If you are going single trig and don't plan to go back, then make yourself a trigger plate that matches the existing one and put your trig in by pinning. That will allow you to get the best geometry and a plus is that it's probably as simple as any solution other than an existing drop in.

I'd get a good building book or take a look at the Brooks tutorial above if you are not sure how to deal with the geometry. IMO, you are better off with a good single trigger than a set trigger for hunting.

 

[crockett]

Unless it is double set only you ought to be able to shoot without setting the trigger. With only one trigger the trigger guard may look too large but....
I would disassemble the trigger and just put the back trigger in if that is the one that works without having to be set. The problem is going to be a heavy trigger pull. You'll have to think things over a little- you might be able to make a trigger that would have a better or lighter pull although normally you need to change the pivot point.

 

[Capt. Fred]

I think he's all set. :thumbsup: