T/C 54 Cal Hawken

[***Sean***]

Hi, first posts looks like I can learn alot just reading old posts.
I have a TC 54 cal. Got everything I need to fire it . Just need a good day and go to the range. Im going to use 530 round balls, .015 prelubed tc patches and pyrodex.
Not sure on the starting powder charge.? Any thoughs?

Not new to black powder but it has been a long time. I used to have a Remington 1858 Army Revolver Replica..
It was hard keeping that brass clean. Lost it in a breakin. Got to get another one.

 

[wtilenw]

I have read that 1 1/2 the caliber is a good STARTING POINT. 54 X 1.5 = 81 gr. Most folks will probably refer you to a manual or loading data which is a better idea. I shoot 80 grs. out of my .54's and am going to try 90 next time at the range, I believe I started with 70 grs.
Idaho PRB

 

[TANSTAAFL]

Start light (50-60 grains of holy black) at 25 yards and work up from there for what you are satisfied with.

Aged and patina looking brass is the way to go, I never worry about keeping it clean.

 

[Swampman]

I've found 60 grains of GOEX 3F to shoot real well in every .54 I've ever owned.

 

[roundball]

Aged and patina looking brass is the way to go, I never worry about keeping it clean.

Unless of course keeping them clean and in showroom condition as I do is the way to go.
:grin: :blah:

If you don't already have one, give TC a call and they'll send you a free copy of their owner's manual which also includes load data charts.

For playing at the range I just use 50-60grns Goex 3F, or 60-70grns Pyrodex-RS for patched round ball target loads.
For hunting I use 90grns Goex 3F or 120grns Pyrodex-RS (both with an OxYoke over powder wad).

 

[***Sean***]

Looks like I found the right forum at last. Tried a few and seems like they had little or no traffic. I have the book from TC but it only gives the loads for black powder. Im going to try the pyrodex. My other question...How can you tell if you have the ball seated correctly. Is this done by feel only? Probably best to mark the ramrod after the first round is loaded? So they all are seated the same depth...

 

[roundball]

Looks like I found the right forum at last. Tried a few and seems like they had little or no traffic. I have the book from TC but it only gives the loads for black powder. Im going to try the pyrodex. My other question...How can you tell if you have the ball seated corectly. Is this done by feel only? Probably best to mark the ramrod after the first round is loaded? So they all are seated the same depth...

If you'll notice, they reference two powders in their handbook...Goex 2F and Pyrodex RS.
Pyrodex RS is a BP substitute made to be an equivalent of Goex 2F.

Their load data tables are all expressed in 2F powders, so use either Goex 2F or Pyrodex-RS per the volume measurements shown in their load data charts...ie: 60grns FFg, 70grns FFg, etc.

If you can get Goex, most here would highly recommend it over Pyrodex-RS as it's ignition is normally a whisker faster & more reliable.

I seat my patched balls as hard as I can and compress the powder...that way I know I've got it as close to the same as possible, shot after shot.

Then I wrap a piece of electrician's tape around the rod right at the top edge of the muzzle, and look for this "witness mark" every time you load.

If you've forgotten powder or ball, the "witness mark" tape will be partway down into the muzzle...if you've double charged or double balled, the tape will stop clearly up above the muzzle...either is an indication of a problem.

There are some "do's and don'ts" to this sport and IMO, it's very well worth the time to spend a few hours reading everything you can before going to the range...safety issues in particular, and practical things like how to pull a ball when you dry-ball, and the ramrod accessories needed to do so, etc.

 

[quigleysharps]

Welcome Sean. Good folks here that can answer your questions. BTW...I mark my rod.

 

[lyman]

In my 54 t/c I have went from 70 to 120, I would not recommend 120. I ended up with 80 fffg because that is where I got my best accurasy and it turned out to be a great hunting load out to 100 yards with plenty of knock down power and just a shove for recoil. When I sighted it in at 50 yards it was 1 inch low @ 100 yards.
Bob. :thumbsup:

 

[Throckmorton]

I'm on my fourth outing with my .54,and by no means an expert.
I"ve been cutting back to bout 50 grains of 2f Pyrodex for economy,plus it cuts one hole at 40 to 50 yards almost.why wast powder on paper punching?
I'll move up gradually next time out to see if it stays good or dteriorates as I up the charge.
this stuff is sure addictive!!
and FUN. :thumbsup:

 

[Zonie]

I like the electrical tape method for marking the ramrod but if you think it would look too crappy then take a indelible black pen with you and use that.
Under no circumstances should you carve a notch in your ramrod. It is almost guarenteed to cause your ramrod to break right at the notch.

Starting at about 65 grains and working up is the best way to find what your gun likes.
Shoot at least 5 shots with each load. After passing the best load, the groups will start getting bigger.
There is a possibility that the groups won't "open up" and if this happens, do not exceed 120 grains of powder. Just drop back to a comfortable load and be happy that your gun isn't picky.
I shoot 75 or 80 grains of FFg or Pyrodex RS in my .54's.

 

[roundball]

PS: My reason for using the tape method instead of a permanent marker is because of occasionally using different loads...I can move the tape, can't move the permanent mark

 

[***Sean***]

Good idea on the tape. I picked up a TC range rod. Im sure it wont break. Plus I wont mess up the rod that came with the gun. I think ill try the pyrodex first. I have a full can of that.Ill start with a 80 grain load.

 

[roundball]

I picked up a TC range rod.

If you're referring to their solid black aluminum range rod, I agree they're good ones...stiff and strong, have a couple myself.

However, I worry about muzzle wear with that hard ramrod and will mention you might want to consider getting a few cheap, lightweight nylon muzzle guides from Builder's Supply.

 

round ball, for what it's worth when trying out new loads I use a pencil to make my mark around the circumference of the rod. Once I find a load that I'm happy with I erase it and make another mark arounnd the rod using a fluorscent blue or red marking pen thet I get from the local Nappa auto parts store and then in small letters mark the # of grains used for that charge on the part of the rod that will be hidden in the forestock of the rifle. PS: I always keep several spare unstained/marked hickory rods on standby.

 

[***Sean***]

Thats the rod I got...Never heard of the muzzle guides... Have a link to them?

 

[Zonie]

Dixie Gunworks has Nylon guides for $1.75. They come in .32-.45 and .50-.62 caliber. They don't say what size hole is going thru the center.
Part numbers are: .32-.45 = UA2202, .50-.62 = UA2203.

TOTW has Brass guides for $2.20. They sell their guides based on the hole size that fits the ramrod.
Part numbers are: 1/4"= RG-4, 5/16"= RG-5, 3/8"= RG-6, 7/16"= RG-7, 1/2"= RG-8.

I have the RG-5 which works well with my .36 thru .54 caliber guns.
When it's installed, the jag is larger than the inside diameter of the guide so it doesn't fall off of the ramrod.

 

[Landngroove]

Welcome to the forum, Sean. Sounds like you have got a fine muzzleloader in that .54, T/C Hawken. Also looks like you have gotten good suggestions from the posts. Enjoy!

 

[***Sean***]

Thanks for the welcomes and all helpful information.

 

[TANSTAAFL]

Unless of course keeping them clean and in showroom condition as I do is the way to go.
:grin: :blah:

:hmm: Shiny brass will get your hair lifted when in hostile country. :rotf: