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T/C 54 peoblems

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here is what i used to clean my leaded bore,

i swabbed three times with a very soaked up cloth with "tetra gun" its a copper/lead remover

WARNING...DONT DO THIS IN THE KITCHEN AS THE SMELL WILL MAKE YOU VERY UNPOPULAR WITH OTHER MEMBERS OF THE HOUSEHOLD!!

i let this soak inside the barrel for 45 minutes. after the lil soak i used "butch's boreshine" to scrub with the copper wire brush in 54 cal. i would scrub three or four times and apply more bore shine and scrub more. repeating this for at least a half hour with the brisstle scrubbing.

then i heated water to just below boiling and added dawn dishwashing soap and let fly with the cloth patch on a jig till i was sure the chemical was all washed out. then i used more very hot clear water to final swish out the barrel doing this till no suds came out.

after drying [ dosnt take much with the barrel so warm with the hot water] i took and turned it upside down and sprayed oil thru the nipple hole till it ran freely out the muzzle. then i sprayed the outside down till i could barely hold onto the slickery thing.

i let her set to cool off with the oil soak at which time i wiped off the excess oil both inside and out but leaving a film of oil to protect.

when i took it out to shoot,,,i took the barrel back out of the stack and wiped her down with a clean dry rag and swabbed the bore till it was dry. snapping a couple caps thru the barrel told me that everything was oil dry. shot her till i was tired and took her home with a huge smile on my face.

have fun with your cleaning and i hope you experience the same results i experienced.

ted
 
I use Shooter's Choice, or Hoppes #9 to remove lead. SC also removes copper and plastic, better than does Hoppes.
 
lil more info on this mule eared shootin iron.

went out again with it and she just reared back to the same ol prollems. wouldnt shoot worth bird manure. i had raised the charges to 80 then 90 then 100 grains and the balls went everywhere but straight. this after i cleaned her as i described uo a ways again. i then took some 430 gr boolits and she would not shoot them either.

i was so descusted that i put her away and dug out the renegade i just purchased and actually hit what i aimed at.

after i burned almost a pound of powder thru the renegade,,,i dug out the hawkins again and went back to the 50 gr load with a 15 th patch pushing the 230 gr ball and bingo,,,hit rite where i aimed her . shot a few times like this and tryed the 80 gr again and blew rite away any accuracy.

so this is my question,,,is it possible that i got a barrel that just wont shoot anything like a hunting load in it with any accuracy?? :idunno: :hmm:
 
bigted said:
lil more info on this mule eared shootin iron.

went out again with it and she just reared back to the same ol prollems. wouldnt shoot worth bird manure. i had raised the charges to 80 then 90 then 100 grains and the balls went everywhere but straight. this after i cleaned her as i described uo a ways again. i then took some 430 gr boolits and she would not shoot them either.

i was so descusted that i put her away and dug out the renegade i just purchased and actually hit what i aimed at.

after i burned almost a pound of powder thru the renegade,,,i dug out the hawkins again and went back to the 50 gr load with a 15 th patch pushing the 230 gr ball and bingo,,,hit rite where i aimed her . shot a few times like this and tryed the 80 gr again and blew rite away any accuracy.

so this is my question,,,is it possible that i got a barrel that just wont shoot anything like a hunting load in it with any accuracy?? :idunno: :hmm:

Work your way up from the 50gr load to 60gr, 65gr, 70gr and see what happens. My hunting load is only 70gr and does just fine...You don't have to have the 80gr-100gr loads to kill a Deer that's only 14" thick and made of blood & muscle.
I see your from Alaska so I correct myself on the thickness of your animal's in your area. (Grizz Bears)
 
If you don't own Dutch Schoultz' Black Powder Rifle Accuracy System, Buy it. Its the best $20.00 you will spend to help you find a good load for any gun.
http://www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/

I suspect that the Ball and patch/lube combination is NOT working well for the Actual Bore Diameter of your rifle. Try using the .535" diameter balls with that .015" patch material. Make sure you put the coarse side of the patching against the ball, and the smooth side against the bore. That will reduce your group sizes. I don't know how you are lubing the patches, but that can radically change group sizes. Just because two barrels are the same caliber from the same company does not mean that they will both shoot well with the same powder charge,ball, patch and lube combinations. I agree that you need to start at 50 grains and work your way up by 5 grain increments. You should be able to tell if a load is " promising" with a 5 shot group, fired off a rest.

If you are thinking that you are just having a bad day, ask someone else to shoot the gun. See if they don't get better groups than you do. If so, the problem is with you, and not the load. Ask the other shooter to watch you shoot, and see if he/she can spot what you may be doing that is different from how they shoot the gun. :idunno: :thumbsup:
 
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it sounds like you have a fast twist barrel and when you punch up the power it may be skipping the rifling instead of the rifling putting a little spin on the ball. I am no expert but i have had this problem.
 
Outta my Lyman GPR I shoot 60grs Goex fffg and 230gr round ball. My TC Hawken I shoot a 380gr REAL boolit with 70grs fffg. Both of course are .54cal and both shoot accurately.
Maybe you gotta "lemon" barrel?
 
The next time you shoot your muley start with the 50 grain load. After shooting a few rounds stop and collect all of the fired patches you can find and look them over. I'm betting they look pretty good. No tares or burn thru's.

Increase your powder load to about 80 grains and shoot her again several times.
Again, collect all of the fired patches you can find. I'm betting they look pretty poor where the ball was contacting the bore.

If the contact area where the ball squeezed the patch against the rifling is torn or burned you have found your problem.

Changing the patch thickness to increase the squeeze between the ball and the bore will usually fix this problem. If it doesn't, try using a different patch lube.

If using a thicker patch and changing the patch lube doesn't fix the problem try using a powder over-wad between the powder and the back of the patched ball. The fiber ones they sell work well but they are expensive. Sometimes just adding a folded patch between the powder and the rear of the patched ball will work just as well at a much cheaper price.
 

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