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T/C Hawken breech plug?

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Thanks Zonie, that has to be it. I can't see this guy working that hard. Do you use anti-seize lube on the nipple?
I gotta start paying closer attention!
Jim

I don't use any special anti-seize on the nipple threads.
I use Hoppes gun grease and it has worked fine for me for 30 years.
I also don't tighten the nipple "really tight". IMO it doesn't have to be "really tight".
I run it down until its shoulder hits the drum or patent breech and then give it about 1/4 turn to tighten. It won't leak, and it won't come out without a wrench.

Something for those who think nipples should be really tight to think about.

Steel, or Stainless steel has 2 strength limits. The lower limit is Yield strength. If it is exceeded, the material will move and not return to its original form. The other strength is called Tensile strength. If you go beyond that limit the material will break or shear off.

In the case of a nipple (or any other thread which is going to be subjected to additional operating loads after installation) if you tighten the threads so they are just under either of its failure strengths, and then apply a additional load (like the high pressure which is trying to blow the nipple out of the hole when the gun is fired) the sum of the initial load plus the gas pressure can exceed the strength of the threads.
If this happens, either the material will "yield" and the nipple will become loose, or it will shear (exceeds tensile strength) and blow out.
Just something to think about. :)
 
I'd better start this by saying that for any shooter, who doesn't have the PROPER equipment to properly remove plugs, DON'T DO IT!
: At one time, TC sold a special plug attachment, that allowed the removal of the breech plug without marring the plug itself. Holding the barrel in the properly rosin'd hard lead barrel-gig is easy, in a 6" bench vice.(these blocks ARE NECESSARY!)
: I have removed 3 TC breechplugs myself, at home, while Don Robinson, once a Black Powder )& modern gunsmith) gunsmith in Prince George has removed upwards of 15 of them for rebarreling and inspection. Many of them weren't pretty very inside.
: They seemingly are put on with a 4foot long bar, however can be removed without unjuring any parts- IF DONE properly with the proper tools. A little heat helps on the stubborn ones.
: They aren't as difficult to remove as the barrel from a military action. What makes them easier, is they VERY rarely bottom on the inner contact surface, so there is only the outer hoop-stress to break free.- STILL - THE PROPER TOOLS ARE NECESSARY.
 
it will also void your warr....anything simple from drilling a hole in the barrel anywhere to tap for a site will do it....................bob
 

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