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Talk Me Out of Buying a Pedersoli 20 Gauge Shotgun

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I started parking my black powder guns muzzle down after cleaning... that really helps.
Also get some cci magnum caps... you'll be amazed how much better they work.
Mine sit for 24-48 hours muzzle down after cleaning/lubricating to keep liquids from settling or accumulating in the breech. Long term always a good idea to keep firearms pointed at least slightly muzzle down. Anything draining from the breech if stored otherwise will not be wood friendly.
 
Sounds like you have it licked. Shooting that much, if you have not already, pick up a 5/8ths or 1/2 inch wood dowel and cut it 8 or 10 inches longer than the barrels. Makes a much better ramrod than the unit that comes with the gun. Mark it for loaded and unloaded.
 
Sounds like you have it licked. Shooting that much, if you have not already, pick up a 5/8ths or 1/2 inch wood dowel and cut it 8 or 10 inches longer than the barrels. Makes a much better ramrod than the unit that comes with the gun. Mark it for loaded and unloaded.

I thought of that but the place where I shoot does not have a place where I can set a dowel/ramrod.

I have to load the shotgun like I would in the field. Which is what I prefer anyway as I like to develop a good habit pattern and routine.

I got a delrin ramrod from TOW which isn’t a flimsy as I thought it would be. It works just as good as a stiffer ramrod.

Have you patterned it yet and checked where it's shooting?

Not yet. I was too excited and wanted to see if I could bust any clay birds with it.

It must be throwing a decent shot pattern because I’m starting to hit the birds about 50% of the time.
 
A half inch dowel rod doesn't have to bought from the range where you are shooting.

While we do recommend a straight grained hickory rod as ramrod, here the working rod is a half inch in diameter. A reasonably straight grained 1/2" diameter rod 48" long available at the local hardware store or national chain big box hardware store will be sturdy enough to serve as a working rod. I would recommend a visit to the Track of the Wolf's web site to order the button tip for one end and threaded 10-32 tip for the other end. Epoxy and pin the tips to the rod. Get the correctly threaded jag, ball worm and patch puller while you are ordering.

I use a half inch dowel set up with a 12 gauge button and a brass tip to use as the working rod for my long land pattern brown Bess. Such a rod for your 20 gauge will stand up for quite a while
 
You can keep your repros , Pedersoli or other wise it has to be an original for me but I am a traditionalist .
Feltwad
 
"I thought of that but the place where I shoot does not have a place where I can set a dowel/ramrod."

Do yourself a favor and try the dowel anyway. You can probably get one for less than $5 or so at the local building supply. I just cut to length and use as-is. Having it 8 or 10 inches longer than the barrel gives you a great handle to hold on to when loading. I bet with some string and a little ingenuity you can figure a way to keep it with you on the firing line.


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"I thought of that but the place where I shoot does not have a place where I can set a dowel/ramrod."

Do yourself a favor and try the dowel anyway. You can probably get one for less than $5 or so at the local building supply. I just cut to length and use as-is. Having it 8 or 10 inches longer than the barrel gives you a great handle to hold on to when loading. I bet with some string and a little ingenuity you can figure a way to keep it with you on the firing line.


View attachment 17990 View attachment 17991

It’s worth considering. Maybe I can make sheath to put it in and wear it like a sword.

Yes, I know that sounds ridiculous.

However, I learned one thing from many years in the military: If it sounds stupid but it works then it is not stupid:)
 
Since you are shooting up to 90 rounds at a time, you do need to consider where to set your needed gear. Where do you set all your other shooting supplies? Then I remembered the following thread on a portable loading bench that would probably work. First post in the thread.

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...h-when-none-is-available.116322/#post-1591064

I've been shooting pre-measured charges. I got a lot of plastic medicine vials dirt-cheap and taped the bottom ends together so I can keep the powder separate from the shot and the wads. I will have to post photos in another post.

Anyway, I stuff one pocket with about a dozen pre-measured charges and put the empties in another pocket or dump them in a bucket. When I shoot up those pre-measured charges, I go back to my car to retrieve some more. If I were hunting, I would not carry 90 charges with me!

I soon discovered that when dealing with all the components, powder, shot and wads; that it is easier to load from a powder flask and shot flask with the wads in a possibles bag. I will get a shot flask today.

I say all this to point out that it doesn't bother me to load with the ramrod that is on the shotgun. I've always loaded this way with my other front-stuffers.

 
I've been shooting pre-measured charges. I got a lot of plastic medicine vials dirt-cheap and taped the bottom ends together so I can keep the powder separate from the shot and the wads. I will have to post photos in another post.

Anyway, I stuff one pocket with about a dozen pre-measured charges and put the empties in another pocket or dump them in a bucket. When I shoot up those pre-measured charges, I go back to my car to retrieve some more. If I were hunting, I would not carry 90 charges with me!

I soon discovered that when dealing with all the components, powder, shot and wads; that it is easier to load from a powder flask and shot flask with the wads in a possibles bag. I will get a shot flask today.

I say all this to point out that it doesn't bother me to load with the ramrod that is on the shotgun. I've always loaded this way with my other front-stuffers.


Lol. Excellent, why don't they make children's entertainment today....lol
 
That's a nice gun. I keep saying, thinking that some day I'll get one, or something like it, and sleeve the left barrel down to a rifle, and have a really cool combo-gun. However, my other rifles and muskets may never get used again, so I refrain.

I think the best solution to the empty space at the breech end would be to clean and dry the cavities very well, stand the barrels perfectly vertical on the muzzles, and pour in/fill up the cavities with a good bow-makers epoxy or JB weld. JB weld does not flow great, but if the breech was nice and warm is should settle good.

Having said that, your cleaning method, and using carb cleaner and WD40 should prevent any rust from forming.

On leaving barrels in the white, I did this with both my Brown Bess, 1861, and Jeager. Getting that gun-metal grey is very nice, but it takes a lot of time and patience. Takes a couple years at least, but worth it. Some barrels rust more easily than others. My Jeager's Colerain barrel does not seem to rust at all. I hunted off and on drizzling rain with it just recently...no rust, not even a tiny spot. It's like it's stainless or something...but it is turning slowly but surely. The Bess, just barely. I've never seen a spot of rust on my 1861 Springfield, and she's been out in heavy rain, but it has turned the nicest grey.

I have two Miroku rifles that will rust if you even sneeze within twenty feet of them.

With all three guns I avoid getting any oil on the barrels, (when cleaning I might wipe it down lightly with a dirty rag) and wipe my sweaty hands on them, and generally put my hands, preferably dirty, on them often, and rub them down with dirty or sweaty hands. !!!! It also seems to help, if when you clean the gun, and take out that first dirty, black, gooey patch, to rub the barrel down with it.

I try not to let them actually rust, and if I see that happening I will wipe them down with some oily solvent, gently, sparingly, then wipe dry.

hey @Rat ... looks like you’re out of excuses...

bhttps://www.gunbroker.com/item/844651932
 
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