Taller front sight for Enfield 1858

[BlackJack]

Bought one of the Chiappa Enfield 1858 two band rifles at the Gettysburg reenactment and love it, fit finish and feel all excellent. Shoots great too with a .577 Minie ball, but unfortunately it shoots high consistently. I'm sure I'm not the first one to encounter this problem. The solution, a taller front sight, is not so simple. To start with, the sight is brazed onto the barrel so changing it out takes some skilled work. And then, the Enfield bayonet won't fit over the front sight if it's too tall.

I'd appreciate advice from anyone who's faced this before. Thanks!

 

[Artificer]

NSSA shooters replace the original front sight with one of these. After soldering it on the barrel, you shoot it and file it down as needed.
http://www.lodgewood.com/Tall-Shooter-Front-Sight-for-Original-Reproduction-Muskets_p_561.html

Now, once one of these is installed, you CANNOT use a bayonet on the rifle, but for shooters, they don't mind.

I have forgotten how many dozens of these I have soldered on for NSSA shooters. I have used both Swif's and used LOW temp silver solder to do it.

A lot of people including me have used this combination solder and paste.

Swif Solder 95/5 solder and paste - You get this in small tubs and normally from Welding or Plumbing supply shops.

SOME TIMES “Swif’s” does not work/hold, so then you have to use a Low Temp Silver Solder.

080-649-001WB
1 oz. Hi-Force 44â„¢ Wire $11.99
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...rs-flux/hi-force-44-trade-solder-prod709.aspx

This stuff came out only very recently and may also be good for soldering on the tall front sight.

080-538-432WB
355 Silver Solder,1/32"Round Wire 1/2oz $29.99(14.2g),10ft(304.8cm)
Mfr Part: WIRE
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...-flux/silvaloy-355-silver-solder-prod584.aspx

Special Note: You really must ALSO buy the type flux recommended for the type low temp silver solder you use. (Not for the Swif solder as the flux is in the paste already mixed up, though.)

Also, you have to rig up some kind of fixture to hold the front sight on properly aligned side to side before you solder it onto the barrel. Don’t be surprised if you have to do it two, three or more times the first few times you do it. OR, you can just pay a good gunsmith to do it properly.

Happy Birthday, USA !!!!
Gus

 

[BlackJack]

Wow, thanks Art. Just what I needed!

 

[Artificer]

Oh, sorry I forgot to add most people also wind up buying a front sight protector when using one of these Extra Tall Front Sights. Almost eliminates bending or knocking the tall front sight off if you have an "Oops" with the rifle. You have to tell them what model rifle you have and whether it is a 2 Band or 3 Band.

http://www.lodgewood.com/Front-Sight-Protector_p_897.html

You are most welcome.

Happy Birthday, USA !!!!
Gus

 

[BlackJack]

Thanks again Gus. All parts ordered. Reading up and getting ready to do rifle surgery when it's all here.

 

[Artificer]

GOOD for you!!

A few tips you may find useful for the first time/s you do it. I think I had to do my first one four times before I got it in the correct position, I must sheepishly admit. :redface:

1. Make sure to measure the distance from the muzzle to the front of the old front sight and write it down before heating and removing the front sight on the barrel. Trust me, it will come in VERY handy if the sight doesn't go in the correct position the first time you solder it on.

2. Please do not take this as personal criticism, but I have seen bad results often enough to mention it. Please don't give in to the temptation some others have and try to solder on the sight with the barrel still in the stock. Taking the barrel out of the stock before heating to remove the old sight and soldering on the new sight will save a large amount of grief.

3. The curve on the bottom of the replacement front sight never "agrees with" or is the same curve as the barrel. On some barrels, the difference in curved surfaces would force you to use a lot, if not too much, solder to fill the gap. (A lot of solder makes a weaker solder joint and the front can fall off when firing the musket with a weak joint on the front sight.)

So my suggestion is to make sure you clean off ALL the old solder on the barrel with a fine file and/or 150 grit garnet paper. Once the barrel is clean of the old solder, tightly wrap some 150 grit garnet paper around the barrel with the grit facing away from the barrel and in the area of the front sight. Take the replacement front sight and with good downward pressure slide it forward and back along the barrel until the bottom of the front sight is sanded close to the curvature of the barrel.

4. "Tin" the bottom of the front sight with some solder or heat the bottom of the front sight and get some solder to flow on it. If you get too much, either sand some off or heat it and get rid of the excess.

5. To get the front sight perpendicular to the rear sight, it is helpful to put a 12" metal rule (ruler) on top of the rear sight. You use it as a sort of "winding stick" to align and position the front sight.

6. Once the bottom of the front sight is "tinned" with solder, you will need something to hold the front sight in place as you solder it. The front sight is GOING to move when the solder is heated and becomes liquefied, if something is not holding it in place. There are a number of ways to hold the front sight when the solder flows. For many years, I used a very large set of needle nose pliers for holding the front sight or holding parts as I heated them for case hardening. I applied a little downward pressure on the front sight when the solder flowed. Some folks rig up a three legged fixture of 1/8" drill rod. Two legs are placed on a support and one leg is placed on the front sight. That leg can have a pointed end or a notch that is filed to the shape of the top of the front sight. Gravity presses down on the front sight as the solder flows and holds the front sight in place.

7. Don't be surprised if the front sight is not perpendicular to the rear sight the first few times you try soldering it. I would expect it would not be right the very first time you try it. No problem, just do it until you get the front sight positioned correctly.

8. After soldering, the top of the front sight may or will be taller in front than in the back of the top of the front sight. I suggest you file the top of the sight at a slight downward angle towards the muzzle for the best sight picture.

Good luck!
Gus

 

[BlackJack]

Here's the result. Sight not finished yet--still being filed down until I get to where the rifle hits at 100 yards. Note bayonet was easy to trim to fit the new sight. Only use the bayonet as eye candy when rifle is on the wall anyway so doesn't matter that it's not ready to stab Yankees. Thanks again for the advice Mr. Artificer, expert extraordinaire!