TC Cherokee Hammer help

[sussexmuzllodr]

Following the advice on here. Polish up everything that you possibly polish up. I would then remove the main spring......can be done easily with a pipe cleaner by wrapping it around the spring at the tumbler end) I would polish and reassemble with out the main spring in to see how it functions. If it does not hold under moderate hand pressure at half and full **** then one of the internals is at fault and needs to be reexamined. I have two tc flint locks and using the methods from this forum have given me trouble free locks. as most say also check your sear lever clearence on the inside.

 

[codygoodman1337]

Just looking at your pictures, the angle of the face seems a bit off. I think it should be on the radius from the pivot point. That looks a bit 'open'. Use a jeweller's file, then polish the face with something like an Arkansas stone. I don't think it needs any more depth. If you want, I can take a pic of one of my Seneca locks (same?) to compare.

I'd appreciate the pictures

 

[chorizo]

As a point of reference, here are the internals of a couple of Spanish sidelocks.....much more polished and as a result, stay cleaner, and easier to clean when dirty amongst other advantages.

 

[codygoodman1337]

Quick update. I came home from work, and took the lock ENTIRELY apart. I couldn't find my Arkansas stone, but my wife had some really fine micro mesh in the garage so I polished every surface that makes contact with another. It took a while, but I finally got them. Then I oiled every piece before reassembling the lock. When I got it back together, it works just fine now. I cycled it several times to make sure. And it's working fine. I believe the gentleman I bought her from had taken it out and oiled it in the past but I don't think it was ever disassembled and polished. Seems to have done the trick.

I wanted to say thank you to all of you for helping me out. Hopefully I can get out this weekend and actually shoot it, but I doubt I'll be able to find lead locally in my small town so it's time to jump on the internet and get some stuff ordered. Thank you all again

 

[chorizo]

@codygoodman1337 Glad it all worked out. Remember, working on the engagement surfaces is ALWAYS the step of last resort. If something else was the issue and you have already changed the engagement surfaces, you are, in the modified words of Hemingway, "Well and truly screwed".

That would have been the case here...doesn't matter how deep, the angle or anything else to do with the sear/notch if they aren't engaging in the first place.

 

[Bad Karma]

@codygoodman1337 Glad it all worked out. Remember, working on the engagement surfaces is ALWAYS the step of last resort. If something else was the issue and you have already changed the engagement surfaces, you are, in the modified words of Hemingway, "Well and truly screwed".

That would have been the case here...doesn't matter how deep, the angle or anything else to do with the sear/notch if they aren't engaging in the first place.

Great advice Chorizo… especially when you’re using set triggers. In that case it’s only necessary to have a rock solid sear/tumbler engagement. Let the set triggers do their work.

 

[oldramrod]

The contact point of the sear and full **** notch needs to be exactly 90 degrees. More than ninety the tumbler will "push off" the sear. Less than ninety degrees you have to "fight" the main spring to fire. A little time with a fine tool stone will enable you to get the angle right. Remember "putting on " stones are no longer being made!