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TC Hawken

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sunbear209

32 Cal.
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Hello, this is my third post, as I just joined this great forum. I have acquired a new TC Hawken Percussion .50 cal. I will be shooting patched round balls out of it. I did not receive the box or any instructions with it. I have shot flints in the past, but they were .32 and .36 cal. I have never shot a percussion rifle. I plan to go to the range on Monday. I have been looking all over the forum for a good starting load.
Right now, I have .490" round balls, lubricated patches and FFFg Goex blackpowder.
I was hoping someone could give me a starting powder charge and a maximum powder charge for this rifle, as I do not have this information and will not get it in the mail from TC before Monday. Thank you very much.
 
I always start at 50 grs 3f for range use.....never used over 70grs in a 50cal T/C for hunting...the T/C's are decent guns to,especially the older ones....I have a few on hand that I rarely shoot anymore...good luck with the new gun
 
T/C's owner's manual with load data charts is on their website in PDF format...you can browse the manual on line, and/or download it to your PC for reference, and/or print off a hard copy.

I've gotten into the habit of basically using "the caliber" as a good all around target/plinking/fun/small game load...ie: 40-50grns Goex 3F in my .50cal T/C Hawken.

For deer hunting I believe in big game loads for big game...powder charges are usually dictated by the size of the game, the hunting conditions, and the distances that you might have shots presented to you...I happen to like 90grns Goex 3F with an Oxyoke over powder wad as a firewall to protect the patch so power and energy are never in question.
 
Welcome to the forum. Your T/C Hawken, with its 31 inch barrel, will only Efficiently burn about 71 grains of powder, so use that as your maximum load. You can put more powder in the barrel, of course, but your accuracy may not improve. Powder burning in front of the muzzle does nasty things with the air, pushing a wave in front of it that can move a ball around. Since no RB leaves the muzzle actually ROUND, turbulence is something that can fish-tail the "ball" in the air, and will open your groups.

Test your chosen loads, and use what YOU find most accurate in that Barrel. What anyone tells you here is ONLY what works best in their gun barrels.

For short range( 25 yds and under) plinking loads, you can use 25-30 grains. That will also do a number on squirrel and rabbits, should you want to get in some practice on small game before hunting big game. 50-55 grains should work well enough for an accurate target load to 50 yards. 70 grains should be your hunting load, and Longer range( out to 100 yds.) Target load.

Q: If this a new gun with the new lock? Or is it a used rifle with the old style lock?

If its the latter, send the lock back to T/C and ask them to fix it. The new ones have a better frizzen, and a longer hammer installed, with resulting better lock geometry. The new locks are proving to be fine working locks. You will eliminated a lot of personal frustration if you upgrade any old T/C lock. The guns have a life-time warranty, so the work will not cost you anything, other than the postage to send it to the factory. :thumbsup:
 
roundball said:
T/C's owner's manual with load data charts is on their website in PDF format...you can browse the manual on line, and/or download it to your PC for reference, and/or print off a hard copy.

I've gotten into the habit of basically using "the caliber" as a good all around target/plinking/fun/small game load...ie: 40-50grns Goex 3F in my .50cal T/C Hawken.

For deer hunting I believe in big game loads for big game...powder charges are usually dictated by the size of the game, the hunting conditions, and the distances that you might have shots presented to you...I happen to like 90grns Goex 3F with an Oxyoke over powder wad as a firewall to protect the patch so power and energy are never in question.


Cant say it better then that! :hatsoff:
 
Thank you very much for the link, I was looking for that for quite some time.
So FFFg powder will work fine, or should I get some FFg powder? Will one granulation shoot better than the other?

Thank you for all of the replies!
 
TC's load data in their manual shows only 2F, but many here use 3F. Some rifles like one better than the other, have to try both and see what your rifle likes. You will find that different lubs also affect the size of your groups as will different patch thickness. Only change one thing at a time.
 
The FFFg powder will work fine in your gun.

There is an old adage about using FFFg in calibers .45 and smaller and FFg in caliber .50 and larger guns. Many modern shooters are using FFFg powder in rifles up to .58 caliber and feel it produces less fouling than the FFg powder.

As to which is best for your gun, only testing will say.
Each gun, even the same brand and caliber will be different from any other guns when it comes to which powder works best in it.

This has to do with ball size, patch thickness, lube, barrel harmonics, barrel wedge tightness or looseness and the phase of the moon. The location of the sun may be in there too. :grin:

Actually, no one really knows why one load will shoot great in one gun and another gun "exactly the same" the load will shoot "OK" but not great.

That is why, although we can give suggested loads the shooter must go out and try them and then change them to see what happens.

For your .50 I would start with a .490 diameter ball, a .015 tightly woven not "pre-lubed" patch lubricated with Bore Butter or Crisco over a 60 grain FFFg powder load. Shoot 5 shots then wipe the bore and change the powder load to 65 grains and start over.
Work in 5 grain load increases and notice the group size. You will find one load that works better than the other loads. It just takes time.

If your group size is larger than you think it should be, by all means, retrieve your fired patches and examine them.
Any signs of tearing or burning thru indicates a problem that must be fixed before trying any other powder loads.

Torn patches are often the result of sharp edges on the rifling/grooves at the muzzle.
Burned patches indicate either too thin of a patch, too small of a ball, too little lube or too much powder.

Have fun with your gun and Welcome to the Forum. :)
 
Thank you all very much, I will follow all of the advice and guidance given. I really appreciate it.
 
If you haven't worked up loads with a rifle before, and don't already have it, you can help yourself immensely by buying Dutch Schoultz's System, for $20.00. Its the best $20.00 you can spend on your education for understanding how to work up the most accurate load in your gun.
http://www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well, just got back from the range. It was pouring rain, but my wife and I shot from under the eve. I put up a paper plate at 50 yds and shot from the bench, for now.
I loaded up with 55 grains of FFFg and a .490" Speer round ball with a .015" bore buttered patch. I capped it with a CCI #11 cap.
First shot: Held at 6 o'clock on the paper plate,
Dead Center!!! Next shot right next to the first. Last shot, my wife put it Dead Center!
No misfires or any other issues. Rain was coming down hard, so it was time to pack up and go home. I have great confidence in this rifle and I can't wait to experiment some more. I will log all of the experimenting in my journal.
Thank you to all of you who assisted me with your advice and guidance. I am HOOKED! :grin:
 
sunbear209 said:
I will look to order that book on pay day, thank you.
Save yourself from wasting $20 + shipping...you don't need anything beyond what's available right here for free, and you've already got the basics given to you...put the money towards more lead balls, etc
:thumbsup:
 
[
Thank you to all of you who assisted me with your advice and guidance. I am HOOKED! :grin: [/quote]
-------------Warning!Warning----------------------
------- This is going to leave a Mark!----------------------once the bug bites look out!------------
 
Save your money you don't need that book. Buy another pound of powder instead, that will teach you more.
 
roundball said:
sunbear209 said:
I will look to order that book on pay day, thank you.
Save yourself from wasting $20 + shipping...you don't need anything beyond what's available right here for free, and you've already got the basics given to you...put the money towards more lead balls, etc
:thumbsup:

Ditto! :hatsoff:
 
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