Blizzard of '93
Cannon
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2006
- Messages
- 7,237
- Reaction score
- 14
I have one of those, good guns and nice wood, I'm hoping to find 12 ga. barrel.
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tc new englander
- Thread starter bowkill
- Start date
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I think they are not necessary if your using real black powder.bowkill said:
They also are sometimes hard to find at gun stores.
They are also much larger than the #11 caps and unless the hammer is directly centered over the nipples cone they can interfere with the walls of the hollow end of the hammer. If that happens they may not fire because the energy of the hammer will be spent scraping the side of the cap instead of pounding it against the nipple.
They are easier to get a grip on if your hunting in cold weather so they are less likely to be dropped while your capping the gun.
Beautiful gun, congratulations.
I used to shoot my New Englander more than I do these days, need to pull that thing back out. With both rifled and smoothbore barrels available, it is a fun little rig.
My rifled barrel is .50 caliber, and I use 70 grains of 3f Swiss with a roundball in it. I also get good (hunting type) accuracy with a Maxi-hunter and 80 grains 2f.
Have fun -
Spot
I used to shoot my New Englander more than I do these days, need to pull that thing back out. With both rifled and smoothbore barrels available, it is a fun little rig.
My rifled barrel is .50 caliber, and I use 70 grains of 3f Swiss with a roundball in it. I also get good (hunting type) accuracy with a Maxi-hunter and 80 grains 2f.
Have fun -
Spot
Went to the gun store today to get some patches or wads whatever they are called, but it did not matter because there are none in town. One of the shops could not believe that i was going to shoot round balls.I guess i will need to check my deer in there when i shoot it with a prb. Can i make my own patches or would it be better just to order some.thanks!! :hatsoff:
windwalker_au
50 Cal.
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2006
- Messages
- 1,105
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that is an outstanding stock.good pick up.
bernie :thumbsup:
bernie :thumbsup:
bowkill said:
Yes, you can make your own. Many people do. However, the issue is thickness of the material. Hard to measure and be sure you have .010 or .015 or whatever you need. Thus...
Yes, you would be better off ordering some. Or at least ordering the material to cut your own from. Some sites will provide uncut material.
If you have a WalMart that still has a fabric dept just buy some red/white or blue/white pillow ticking and get a SHARP knife. Cut or tear the ticking into strips about 1 1/4"-1 1/2" wide and lube them with a lube of your choice, and then start the ball just below the muzzle with your short starter, and using the sharp knife and cutting away from yourself, cut the excess patch material flush with the muzzle. Oila, perfectly centered patch and ball combo.
bowkill: The most important things to remember when you buy material for patching roundballs is it must be 100 percent cotton.
Simply put, any cloth with any man made fibers like nylon, rayon, polyester etc will burn thru and deposit melted plastic into your bore. Only cotton will do.
The material also must have a tight weave so, if you can see light thru it it will burn thru or tear.
If you can't find the red/white or blue/white striped pillow ticking, ask the clerk for pillow ticking. If they give you a blank look, thank them and start looking for material that is thicker than shirt or sheet material and thinner than the heavy denum that blue jeans are made from.
Some people wash the sizing (a starch that makes new material somewhat stiff so it is not easily wrinkled) out of it before using it, and some people leave it in. I prefer to wash it out so there is nothing that might contaminate my bore except fouling.
You can either cut the patching at the muzzle as mentioned above or if you have a .50 cal rifle cut the material into 1 1/4 inch circles or squares.
For a .54 cut it into 1 3/8 inch circles or squares. This size isn't critical as long as the ball has some material sticking out ahead of it when it is loaded into the bore.
If you want cleaning patches find the same cotton material that your skivvies are made out of.
zonie
Simply put, any cloth with any man made fibers like nylon, rayon, polyester etc will burn thru and deposit melted plastic into your bore. Only cotton will do.
The material also must have a tight weave so, if you can see light thru it it will burn thru or tear.
If you can't find the red/white or blue/white striped pillow ticking, ask the clerk for pillow ticking. If they give you a blank look, thank them and start looking for material that is thicker than shirt or sheet material and thinner than the heavy denum that blue jeans are made from.
Some people wash the sizing (a starch that makes new material somewhat stiff so it is not easily wrinkled) out of it before using it, and some people leave it in. I prefer to wash it out so there is nothing that might contaminate my bore except fouling.
You can either cut the patching at the muzzle as mentioned above or if you have a .50 cal rifle cut the material into 1 1/4 inch circles or squares.
For a .54 cut it into 1 3/8 inch circles or squares. This size isn't critical as long as the ball has some material sticking out ahead of it when it is loaded into the bore.
If you want cleaning patches find the same cotton material that your skivvies are made out of.
zonie
mark/wi
40 Cal.
bowkill,I think it would be a good idea to follow threw and show the shop the deer you take with a round ball. Good luck, Mark
I had a new englander in good shape but it was a leftie .54 got it second hand before i knew much about ML in general. I know it would shoot 390gr great plains bullets with a bore button and 100gr of powder and with an 80gr load it would shoot PRB and hit just a bit low at 100yds. I sold it and bought a .50 renegade due to the trigger being too jiggly, and the fact that i wanted a right handed gun. I never worked on the trigger just figured i'd eventually replace the gun. my renegade has a great stock like that though.
hey guyes just fixed the trigger on this new englander. i work on alot of triggers ar, 10/22,boltactions,but this one was alot easer than i thought it would be. Just took a diamond stone and polished the sear and trigger, cut one round off the triger spring,no creep and breaks about 3 pounds, was about 10 before trigger job.should be able to shoot it alot better.
kevthebassman
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2007
- Messages
- 322
- Reaction score
- 1
Sounds good. The trigger really does make the rifle.
I also have a T/C NE in .54. My Brother talked me into trying one of his concoctions. 395gr HP/HB Hornady conical with 105 grs of 2F (recommended by Hornady). I think I need rotator cuff surgery. WOW what a KICK. I like the 80gr 2F PRB. I think I'll stick with that :shake:
