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teflon coated patches?

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musketeer59

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Hi everyone,

I've been considering trying some teflon coated patches, and was wondering if any of you guys have tried them. What do you think of them? Did they seem to improve your accuracy enough to warrant the extra cost over conventional patch lube, or are they a gimmick?
 
I tried teflon patches several years ago and did not like them. They did not improve anything in my rifle and were significantly more expensive. I know some of the target shooters claim great things from teflon patches but for a shooter like me, they were not worth the price. I find that I get the best performance from my rifles by using a leather over powder wad made from 5 oz. tooling leather that has been saturated with Ballistol. I load it on top of the powder and then seat my patched roundball on top of the wad. According to my chronograph, my stardard deviation of muzzle velocity went from 21 down to 7 when I used the wads. That is a really significant improvement in shot to shot consistancy. :hatsoff:

I'd say forget the teflon patches and give the leather over powder wads a try. :thumbsup:

Just an old fart's opinion. It's free so take it for whatever it's worth. Even at free, it may be over priced. :haha:
 
billnpatti,

Thanks for the reply and advice. What kind of lube do you use for the patch, or do you use a dry patch?
 
My nephew has used them for over twenty years and likes them. I tried them once and didn't like them. I use pillow ticking lubed with a mixture of beeswax 20 % and lard 80% in warm weather and pure lard below freezing.
 
If you aspire to be a top rung target shooter, you'll likely wind up using teflon. But for me it's an unwanted extra expense, non-traditional, and requires wiping the bore after every shot.
 
I think for the kind of shooting that I do I'll stick to using good old natural lard for lube. I saved a lot of deer tallow from the deer that I got last fall and think I'll try making my own lube. Thanks to everyone for your replies. If you have a good deer tallow recipe please let me know.
 
How do you apply the wax/lard lube to patches? When, at shooting or prelubed. Which is the best way to lube patches with home made lube. want to make my own and use pillow ticking material for patches. would like to prelube a bunch at a time.
 
I recently purchased some teflon patches but have only used them once, so the verdict is still out. Wiping between shots is neccesary. As far a accuracy, I do not know because my shooting was off that day as it was colder than a witches *** in a brass bra.
 
nnnnnnoooooowwwww ttttttaaatttttt'''''sssss cccooolldddd, cant stop shivering :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:
 
fm50ford said:
How do you apply the wax/lard lube to patches? When, at shooting or prelubed. Which is the best way to lube patches with home made lube. want to make my own and use pillow ticking material for patches. would like to prelube a bunch at a time.


There are two best lubes, Ballistol and home made moose milk. I can't knock either on performance. Place some patches on wax paper and squirt them with a spray bottle, let them dry and you are ready to go.
 
Give the Teflon a try. The "Texas Patch" Teflon coated sail cloth is great for target shooting or hunting. You can shoot them without wiping each time. That said for best results on the target range a wipe not a clean is best. For hunting these dry tough patches are hard to beat. In very dry weather a little moisture rubbed to the ball side of the patch works well. I found that shooting matches in Texas if you didn't shoot Teflon you were most likely not going to Place let alone win. If the added cost of Teflon is a problem when shooting match grade guns you are not serious any way. :hmm:
 
How to apply Wax/lard lubes to patches. Its best done before you go to the range, and it helps if the fabric has an overnight for the oils and wax to spread evenly throughout the weave. Apply the "solid" lube to one side of that patch. Then put a new patch on top of the lubed side, and lube the exposed side of that one. Continue on until you have a stack of lubed patches. You can speed the migration of the oils and wax through the fabric by heating them up. If you use a microwave, remember that burning this stuff STINKS up your home! Do it in 5 second bursts, until you see the lube coming through the outside of the last patch. You can accomplish the same thing, only slower if you put these in an warmed oven that is shut off( and therefore cooling down. I am talking about an oven heated to 200 degrees- no warmer). Watch it, and they should be done after 15-30 minutes. If you begin to smell burned lube, get them out of that oven.

Or you can put the patches out in direct sunlight, either out of doors, or in a south facing window. Use some kind of metal plate to reflect the heat. But, consider using a coffee filter under the patches to absorb any excess oil so it does not "cook" in the sunlight.

If you are not shooting somewhere that requires you to be Period Correct, put the patches in a plastic baggie to take to the range. If you need to be PC, then consider either oil cloth, waxed paper, or oiled leather to wrap the patches in. Put any oiled leather or cloth in some kind of cloth bag or wrap to protect your clothing and gear from getting oil all over them.

Go to Dutch Shoultz's website, and order his Black Powder Rifle Accuracy System for $15.00. It explains the importance of lubing your patches, and will instruct you about using products like Ballistol to create a " Dry lube" patch that is very good for accuracy. Dutch does his work with water soluble oil- not Ballistol, but you can substitute Ballistol for the water soluble oil in his formulae. Frankly, you can buy water soluble oil from NAPA auto supply for a lot less money than it will cost you to buy a can of Ballistol.
http://www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/





:thumbsup:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Water soluable oil = moose milk. Added ingredients can be Murphy's oil soap and someone said witch hazel, but I need that one to be splained to me.
 
I am not going to argue about water soluble oil. Its a product used in the machine industry to keep grinding wheels, and cutting bits cool during cutting operations. Its not the same as my Moose Milk Recipe, altho it performs the same function in a cleaning fluid for Mlers.

Witch Hazel is an extract of tree bark, and alcohol, used to clean wounds, and cool burns. The extract has some medicinal value as an antiseptic. Its not quite the same as Murphy's Oil Soap, but the two do perform much the same function in killing bacteria.

The alcohol in Witch Hazel will evaporate if given the time and an open container, so you need to know that and take it into consideration if you want to add witch hazel to your recipe. I can't think of any reason to put an antiseptic in my cleaning fluid.

I do put alcohol in my moose milk when temperatures are going to be below freezing, but we are talking about less than a Tsp. in a small, 2 oz. bottle I carry in my hunting pouch in the field, before I leave home. Windex, or any other spray cleaner that has an alcohol base will work as well. :thumbsup:
 
paulvallandigham said:
I am not going to argue about water soluble oil. Its a product used in the machine industry to keep grinding wheels, and cutting bits cool during cutting operations. Its not the same as my Moose Milk Recipe, altho it performs the same function in a cleaning fluid for Mlers.

Witch Hazel is an extract of tree bark, and alcohol, used to clean wounds, and cool burns. The extract has some medicinal value as an antiseptic. Its not quite the same as Murphy's Oil Soap, but the two do perform much the same function in killing bacteria.

The alcohol in Witch Hazel will evaporate if given the time and an open container, so you need to know that and take it into consideration if you want to add witch hazel to your recipe. I can't think of any reason to put an antiseptic in my cleaning fluid.

I do put alcohol in my moose milk when temperatures are going to be below freezing, but we are talking about less than a Tsp. in a small, 2 oz. bottle I carry in my hunting pouch in the field, before I leave home. Windex, or any other spray cleaner that has an alcohol base will work as well. :thumbsup:


You know, I may be wrong about the "original" moose milk. I have to retrace my information, maybe that information is wrong. However, you do not have to belittle me. I know FULL WELL what the hell cutting oil is. I also know what witch hazel is.

Some people even call ballistol mixed with water moose milk. Are you going to tell me is is?

I'm off this topic and will leave it to the experts. Goodbye!
 
Meanwhile, back to the topic Teflon patches.

I reciently purchased some and am eager to try them out as soon as the weather cooperates.
 
Fact is a lot of top competition shooters use teflon patches ... so go figure ... it must be something worthwhile for all those folks to use them, and front the expense to do so year, after year.

I know many who swear by them .. they will not even argue with you about it. So make your own choice. :idunno: :hmm: :grin:

Davy
 
Davy said:
Fact is a lot of top competition shooters use teflon patches ... so go figure ... it must be something worthwhile for all those folks to use them, and front the expense to do so year, after year.

I know many who swear by them .. they will not even argue with you about it. So make your own choice. :idunno: :hmm: :grin:
Davy


Are teflon patches allowed at Friendship?
 
I'm trying to figure out why plastic anything isn't allowed to be discussed, yet Teflon is. I must be getting old. :surrender:
 
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