Tell me of your cleaning rituals

[Rob M.]

It just sounded...off to me.

The vid made it sound like it was the camp washerwoman's job to keep water boiling 24/7 so after firing, once a soldier soldier was back in camp they could pop off the lock, dunk, scrub, re-oil and on with their day. If that was the case I think externally it probably didn't matter because they constantly polished the metal, but internally I could see that causing real havoc after 6 months of a daily ritual of that.

Then again, I think boiling every time you shoot could lead to a really cool looking natural brown or more likely blue patina on the exposed parts if you started with a polished lock in the white and carefully blew out, dried and oiled only the internals.

Hmmm .....ain't that somethin , interesting ... never read of such a thing like that ....hmmm

 

[Rebel bull]

my opinion is that long hunters/ mountain/wagon train settlers/farmers didn't leave their guns unloaded to clean they didn't fire off a loaded gun wasting the lead and powder both were expensive and hard to replace in the middle of nowhere when they did clean it was with WATER maybe hot but not necessarily at most they wiped them down with maybe some left over "grease" from cooking even in the military they didn't unload their rifles after a battle and clean until they had cartridge rifles. I have never seen any documented evidence of such, maybe after a "range secession" they may have cleaned before reloading. I guess that what I'm saying is you don't need anything other then water to clean with and then run a patch down and out that is lubed with whatever you use for patch lube, then wipe the outside with another lubed patch.

 

[Crown_Pointer]

I am into totally disassembling it. And I submerge the breach in hot soapy water and pump away with a cleaning Jag followed by some dry patches and WD-40 to chase the moisture away. I will soak the lock in the same bucket and use a toothbrush on it followed by the same WD-40 treatment . I always have a cigar and some Crown Royal to make the whole experience relaxing. I would love to hear what some of the more experienced guys do.

Cleaning goes pretty quick.

I go into the shop and fire up the steamer to get it to warm up. It's filled with distilled water for the season.

Then I go and slap it down in the workbench I made which holds and - felt lined cradles - protects it while I tap the barrel pins out, remove the barrel and remove the lock. The workbench has routed grooves to hold each part in it place wrt where it was removed from the gun so each will go back where it came from. The picture (01) shows the workbench as I completed making it years go.

Then I take the barrel over to my "Parks" bike clamp (I made the stand for it) and clamp the barrel in it with muzzle angled down. I had to modify the clamp as the stock plastic jaw protectors would melt. Initially I use a shop rag, later a slit rad hose and eventually I cast my own silicone duplicates. The picture (02) shows the workbench on the left the bike/barrel clamp in the center and the steamer on the right. Picture (03) shows a silicone jaw protector next to the original plastic version on the right. I made the stand for the steamer. It's on 5" swivel casters and can be wheeled around effortlessly. It holds all the steam wands, cleaning rods, jags, tools oils, cleaners etc, in the middle are the protective gloves and gun screwdrivers. Picture (04) is a detail of the steamer stand wands & rods. Picture (05) is a detail of the gloves & screwdrivers below.

So after I clamp the barrel I put on the gloves and the long steam wand and in 3-4 passes the barrel, blind breach & touchhole are spotless. I run a cleaning patch to confirm it's virgin white then another with bore butter on the inside (it's hot and a bit sloppy as it melts and soaks). Then I do the inside and outside of the lock then spray it with oil. Being hot the oil soaks into everything. I then, after killing the steamer, wipe the barrel exterior with oil. This sound long but it all goes extremely quickly

After this it's back to the workbench for reassembly and another general overall wipe down with oil and wiping off the wood.

From here it goes back into the Butternut case I made for it. Picture (06) shows the exterior. Picture (07) shows a bit of the interior. You can't see much down inside but I have tools etc that I keep with the case even though I generally don't use them, as you can see. Picture (08) shows a cleaning tool set and in front a board for rolling your own cartridges. These sit down at the muzzle end. In the middle bottom, picture (09), there's a set for shooting (flints, patches etc) and beside that, picture (10), a board with an iron cradle which secures the powder horn.

Net-net, whatever you do, if you get your set-up together you can do a very good job and it can go very fast and effortlessly. All of this (woodwork, ironwork, stencils, rope-work) I designed built/forged with authentic materials including hemp rope knot-work. I had a lot of fun making all the above items (isn't that the point) and they have served me very well over the years.

...oh, yes, a single malt whisky helps too!

 

[WonkyEye]

Cleaning goes pretty quick.

I go into the shop and fire up the steamer to get it to warm up. It's filled with distilled water for the season.

Then I go and slap it down in the workbench I made which holds and - felt lined cradles - protects it while I tap the barrel pins out, remove the barrel and remove the lock. The workbench has routed grooves to hold each part in it place wrt where it was removed from the gun so each will go back where it came from. The picture (01) shows the workbench as I completed making it years go.

Then I take the barrel over to my "Parks" bike clamp (I made the stand for it) and clamp the barrel in it with muzzle angled down. I had to modify the clamp as the stock plastic jaw protectors would melt. Initially I use a shop rag, later a slit rad hose and eventually I cast my own silicone duplicates. The picture (02) shows the workbench on the left the bike/barrel clamp in the center and the steamer on the right. Picture (03) shows a silicone jaw protector next to the original plastic version on the right. I made the stand for the steamer. It's on 5" swivel casters and can be wheeled around effortlessly. It holds all the steam wands, cleaning rods, jags, tools oils, cleaners etc, in the middle are the protective gloves and gun screwdrivers. Picture (04) is a detail of the steamer stand wands & rods. Picture (05) is a detail of the gloves & screwdrivers below.

So after I clamp the barrel I put on the gloves and the long steam wand and in 3-4 passes the barrel, blind breach & touchhole are spotless. I run a cleaning patch to confirm it's virgin white then another with bore butter on the inside (it's hot and a bit sloppy as it melts and soaks). Then I do the inside and outside of the lock then spray it with oil. Being hot the oil soaks into everything. I then, after killing the steamer, wipe the barrel exterior with oil. This sound long but it all goes extremely quickly

After this it's back to the workbench for reassembly and another general overall wipe down with oil and wiping off the wood.

From here it goes back into the Butternut case I made for it. Picture (06) shows the exterior. Picture (07) shows a bit of the interior. You can't see much down inside but I have tools etc that I keep with the case even though I generally don't use them, as you can see. Picture (08) shows a cleaning tool set and in front a board for rolling your own cartridges. These sit down at the muzzle end. In the middle bottom, picture (09), there's a set for shooting (flints, patches etc) and beside that, picture (10), a board with an iron cradle which secures the powder horn.

Net-net, whatever you do, if you get your set-up together you can do a very good job and it can go very fast and effortlessly. All of this (woodwork, ironwork, stencils, rope-work) I designed built/forged with authentic materials including hemp rope knot-work. I had a lot of fun making all the above items (isn't that the point) and they have served me very well over the years.

...oh, yes, a single malt whisky helps too!

Wow, that's a setup! I like the travel box. And I like the tool box with the cutouts. All the way on the left, there is what looks like a tiny little axe with a knapping hammer on the back, and a tow worm on the handle. What is it?

 

[Crown_Pointer]

Wow, that's a setup! I like the travel box. And I like the tool box with the cutouts. All the way on the left, there is what looks like a tiny little axe with a knapping hammer on the back, and a tow worm on the handle. What is it?

Thanks! It's always fun to get several of your hobbies to come together. I spent more time on the design to make it look original yet get all those kits etc to fit nicely in the box than I did actually building the box. To answer your question ....

http://middlesexvillagetrading.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=56

 

[oldwood]

Both of the rifles I use a lot , are flinters. So , remove the lock , run tap water over it and brush clean any powder ash off. and set it aside to be dryed later. Next , I have a piece of automobile brake fluid line , w/ a 3 ft. piece of garden hose onto the brake line ,, and hose clamp. My laundry sink faucet arm , has a hdw. store fitting so the female water hose end screws on. Made a board to rest the rifle on , that clamps to the sink. Insert the brake line tubing into the muzzle end of the gun. Turn on the hot tap water , put finger over touch hole allowing the hot dirty water to drain into the sink. When the barrel gets hot on the outside , stop , remove the metal tubing. Run a few patches through the clean bore , and give the bore a shot of WD 40 so the cleaning patches don't stick. Stand the gun muzzle down over night , and one more patch later , barrel needs anti rust lube. Lube the lock and reinstall. Takes about ten mins. to totally clean a gun. No corrosive soap needed.

 

[bpd303]

I have a ritual but it's a secret and involves a lot of chanting and a secret dance.

 

[koauke]

I just discovered this stuff, 3 sopping wet patches, 3 dry patches, I give the barrel a squirt of WD-40 and dry it out again then use an oily patch with 30 weight motor oil to lube the bore if I am not going to reload any time soon. Like Mike, I only take off the lock.

View attachment 280562

Seems to do a very good job;

View attachment 280563

I’d be interested in giving this a try, I noticed it says it’s safe on factory bluing. Any experience with browned barrels or cold bluing or Jax black? Just wouldn’t want to damage the barrel finish on my TVM or woodsrunner.

 

[bpd303]

Actually my routine is not a secret but only takes me 10 min. to do it.
1. With the rifle upside down in a cradle I made, flush the bore, breech, flash hole or nipple using the pump up modified garden sprayer. Till the room temperature water runs clear.
2. A couple of dry clean patches to check for residue.
3. A couple of wet patches with Barricade to prevent rusting.
I never remove the lock unless they need lubrication because all of my locks fit so well no fouling gets inside them.

EDIT: BTW the rifle cradle is bolted to that small tool box which holds most of my rifle cleaning supplies and I clamp it in the B&D workmate so it doesn't tip or move around.

 

[Omahkapi'si]

Tried all the BP cleaners, nothing as good as water.

- water 2 or 3 times, run a patch down each time and plunge it up and down a bunch 'til water comes out clear
- alcohol 1 time same as above with the patch, displaces water
- patches until dry
- lube with Ballistol
- clean up the lock with damp cloth and then wipe the whole rifle down with Ballistol
- store it muzzle down

Thousands of lead sent downrange and bores are shiny as new. Pull the lock off once or twice a year and it always looks ok just a little grimy here and there, clean it up and put it back on. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

[EricW]

I’m not gonna add my cleaning regimen because others have already covered that. I will say that pulling a pinned barrel is totally unnecessary. You will eventually woller the holes in the stock or chip the wood removing the pins and reinstalling them. Coat the barrel in car wax and install it in the stock. Turtle wax works. Put it on and don’t polish it off. Leave it that way. I pulled the barrel on a SMR I built in 1999 to refurbish the stock after years of use. My wax was still present and there was zero rust present on the underside of the barrel.

Hi Treeman,

I have a Pedersoli Charelville that has the springs to remove the barel. You’re saying take the barrel off and coat with Turtle Wax and it should be good for a long time? It’s a nice shiny piece and I thought car wax might work.

Would you recommend car wax on the lock plate outside and other metal parts?

Thanks

 

[Grenadier1758]

Most waxes, @EricW, will protect the metal parts. The wax can also be applied to the wood to build up a seal. Not all waxes will form a high gloss coating. The classic Johnson Paste wax is protective and nearly matte. The Renaissance wax is one of the best for wood, but somewhat expensive.

 

[CaptainVane]

During season when going to range once or twice a week...
Remove barrel and cylinder, throw in dog bowl of Dawn and Muzzle Magic.
Squirt above into lock work on frame and scrub with toothbrush under HOT running water.
After frame clean, scrub barrel and cylinder. Rinse all under HOT running water.
Dry with hair dryer until metal too hot to touch. Reassemble. Coat with Break Free CLP. Done.
Total time 10 mins.
After season when putting away for winter, I spend a little longer making spotless.

 

[hanshi]

After reading all the posts I realized I clean them near exactly like Mike B. does. I clean with cold tap water and use Barricade rather than oil for rust protection however. I remove only the lock (clean & oil). Thing is that it takes me lots longer than 10 minutes to do the deed. The culprit that adds extra time is SLOWNESS. I'm slow. It takes me over 10 minutes just to get my stuff together, then there's patch cutting & so on. Rifle/pistol/smoothbore get cleaned all the same.