Tell me why you like your Traditions Kentucky?

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The dark finish is aqua fortis. I make mine from muriatic acid, hydrogen peroxide and 0000 steel wool.

I don't think that is technically aqua fortis but it's obviously a great solution (that there is a pun 😉 ) for use on beechwood. What is the exact formula for your mix?

I don’t like the Roman nose stock

I don't see a "Roman nose" aspect to these guns. At least not in the Lehigh tradition.
 
I don't think that is technically aqua fortis but it's obviously a great solution (that there is a pun 😉 ) for use on beechwood. What is the exact formula for your mix?



I don't see a "Roman nose" aspect to these guns. At least not in the Lehigh tradition.
JWSBLADES.COM video has the formula. He calls it Ferric Oxide.

Very easy.

Darkens wood, rusts metal, what's not to love.
 
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I like mine because it shoots very well. Lock pops the cap every time, too. It came as a kit, which was an enormously satisfying experience. Fastened the two beechwood stock sections together (.45-70 brass with the head cut off fit the ramrod hole perfectly) and used aquafortis to create a nice dark chocolate brown, browned the barrel, etc. etc..
JB67's post shows some of the things one can do to make a Traditions Kentucky into a great looking rifle, and did I mention they shoot very well?
 
I bought the Traditions Model R2020 Kentucky from Old South Firearms (link); i.e. already completed. Heck, he had the finished gun cheaper than my local Cabelas had the kit! Finish is nice - no way could I have done as well myself. Contrary to earlier posts, my front cap fits perfect and the stock is tight, no gap, at the brass spacer. Shoots Hornady .490 balls very well with red pillow ticking patches lubed with mink oil over 60 gr Goex ffg. Sights were spot on at 50 yards right out of the box.

IMG_2022.jpg


No way would I eliminate the spacer and glue the 2 pieces together - it's easy to pop it apart without punching pins and submerge the end of the barrel in hot soapy water for cleaning - spotless in 5 minutes! People gripe about the ramrod spring popping out - well heck just don't pull the lock screw all the way out for crying out loud lol. Put tape over the screw head like the manual suggests, or pop a snap ring or a twist of wire around the screw inside the stock to keep it from backing out. I did fiddle around with it , i.e. messed with the trigger to get the play out and get a good 3 lb pull; etc, but mostly it needed nothing I just can't leave well enough alone.

Good bang for the buck. I like it - I dont see ever getting rid of it.

ETA my stock's comb is straight, not "Roman", and I get no cheek slap at all.
 
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There is nothing wrong with Traditions or CVA (pre bankruptcy/BPI buyout) muzzleloaders. Period. End. Of. Story.

Are they the best built? Nope. Are they the most durable? Nope. Are they HC/PC? Nope. Can the average man afford one? Yup. Are they accurate? Yup.

I own a few Traditions and CVA's. They all work just fine. No better or worse than the Investarm/Lymans, T/C's, or customs I own.

The 1/66 twist Traditions barrels CAN be exceptionally accurate. And they are more often then not.

edit- Oh and to take a poke at the custom rifle purists, at least Traditions uses a proper steel for gun barrels unlike most customs that use 12L14.
 
There is nothing wrong with Traditions or CVA (pre bankruptcy/BPI buyout) muzzleloaders. Period. End. Of. Story.

Are they the best built? Nope. Are they the most durable? Nope. Are they HC/PC? Nope. Can the average man afford one? Yup. Are they accurate? Yup.

I own a few Traditions and CVA's. They all work just fine. No better or worse than the Investarm/Lymans, T/C's, or customs I own.

The 1/66 twist Traditions barrels CAN be exceptionally accurate. And they are more often then not.

edit- Oh and to take a poke at the custom rifle purists, at least Traditions uses a proper steel for gun barrels unlike most customs that use 12L14.
12L14

Do tell us more.

Do. Do.
 
I really like the looks of the blacked out brass!

I put this in the Percussion section before realizing it came in Flintlock also. Was maybe thinking now, Flintlock may be the way to go with the scarcity of caps nowadays!
Not a bad plan with the cap situation. Has me thinking about going all Flint.
 
12L14

Do tell us more.

Do. Do.
LaSalle Steel, the maker of 12L14, has explicitly said that the use of this alloy for gun barrels is NOT the proper use of the alloy. It is used because it machines easily to create the contours of our ml barrels. Nothing more, nothing less. I own firearms with barrels made from 12L14 steel and shoot them regularly. Douglas, Rice, and Colerain specifically. But it is NOT the proper use of this alloy. And I am careful and know the limitations of this alloy in this application.

Maybe some wise forum members like @Dphar1950 or @JCKelly or @fleener or @M. De Land would like to voice their experience with this?

I spent 12 years in the heat treating field. While not an engineer, I know a thing or two about steel alloys. @JCKelly has quite the stockpile of info on 12L14 steel when used as muzzleloader barrels.
 
12L14

Do tell us more.

Do. Do.
The 12L14 steel is a so-called "free-cutting steel".

Equivalent grades: CNS SUM24L, JISSUM24L, ASTM 12L14, DIN 9SMnPb36. Free-cutting steels are mainly used to manufacture parts that have requirements of high precision in size and high surface finish, but low mechanical properties, such as gears, shafts, bolts, valves, bushings, pins, fittings, spring seats, metal screws, plastic molds, utensils for surgical and dental procedures, some automotive parts, instruments, etc.
 
The 12L14 steel is a so-called "free-cutting steel".

Equivalent grades: CNS SUM24L, JISSUM24L, ASTM 12L14, DIN 9SMnPb36. Free-cutting steels are mainly used to manufacture parts that have requirements of high precision in size and high surface finish, but low mechanical properties, such as gears, shafts, bolts, valves, bushings, pins, fittings, spring seats, metal screws, plastic molds, utensils for surgical and dental procedures, some automotive parts, instruments, etc.
And this is factually correct.

Like I said before in this thread, I own and shoot 12L14 steel barrels. The majority of custom rifle/smoothbore barrels are made from 12L14. Not all, but most. Not every 12L14 barrel bursts/shatters, OBVIOUSLY.

If I was that concerned I would not shoot any 12L14 barrel, ever. But yet I do.

I believe, through experience of my own and through others, that 12L14 offers very little, if any, of a safety margin.

LaSalle Steel has repeatedly stated that 12L14 alloy should not be used in gun barrels.

Traditions Performance Firearms uses chromoly steel steel in their barrels. That could be anything from 4130 to 4150 (I'm leaving out some alloys!). Chromoly steel is what the industry has determined through engineering to be appropriate for "ordnance steel".
 
The top rifle is a Pedersoli "Frontier" (also called "Blue Ridge Flintlock") and the bottom it's an Ardesa (Jukar/Dikar/Ardesa/Traditions) "Pennsylvania". Only the four brands make the difference: the manufacturing is the same and the parts are the same and interchangeable ;) ...
 
The upside of 12L14 is that is more likely to expand if something is done wrong as opposed to higher carbon steel which may explode. Since another poster posted his credentials here are mine
40 years tool and die . To complete my apprenticeship I had to take courses in Metalurgy from the Rochester Institute of Technology. I also still do my own heat treating
 
When the steel manufacturers state don't use for rifle barrels that is more aimed at suppository guns

That's always been my take on it. If one looks hard enough every barrel material out there has been blown somehow by someone regardless of what it's made of.
 
I like Traditions Kentucky rifles because the instructions are very clear.

Step 1: Throw the brass nose cap in the trash.

Step 2: Epoxy the front and aft stock pieces together.

Step 3: Cut the barrel back and cut a new front sight dovetail.

The percussion locks are actually very nice. Never had one fail. Never had one jump to half cock. And as long as your percussion cap isn't a piece of crap, thinking of you CCI, those hammers will pop em. Every time.
How did you secure the stock at the muzzle sir?
 
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