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does anyone know of any online resources ('how-to's) for making a stock from scratch (basic measurements/diagrams). I've (obviously) never done it before, but if I can find some good guidance, I'd love to give it a try.
 
Don't know of an online sourse. However you can take a transparancy & copy a photo of the rifle & then put it on a projector on the wall & put paper up, set one dimention correctly (usually have a barrel length in details) & that will get ya real close to the original. Remember these were hand made, so it they made one right after the other being the same style rifle, there will be variances, so even if yours is not Exactly the same it is still like the original & PC as any builder 250 years ago would have been.

Also there are blueprints avail from most of the venders & acquiring a couple of them would give you how they are supposed to be layed out & etc.

:thumbsup:
 
track of the wolf sells full scale plans of some rifles :v ..............bob
 
Books on gunbuilding cover the basics of this. Dixon's, Buchele, Peter Alexander's books are good resources. Understands how the parts fit in relation to one another first, then design the wood around that.
 
Here's a good start for you, although I never mention how I came to that particular pattern.
>
I have built nearly 260 guns, and I have drawn out a pattern for each one before I begin.
You need to have all your parts first and some paper big enough to draw out a full size pattern.
Measure you barrel and transfer theose measurements to the paper. then figure the web between the barrel and RR channel to be 3/16". Then allow for your ram rod and 1/8 on the bottom of the stock.
Then figure out where your vent hole will be and mark it. Then place your lock in line with your vent, jockying it around so you can pass your fron lock bolt thru you 3/16" web. Trace around your lock once you have it positioned correctly.
Then position your trigger where it needs to go and trace around it. At this point you can measure back from your trigger to establish your trigger reach distance and mark it.
Now you can put your buttplate on the mark. You'll have to figure out how much drop you'll want at the heel and nose of the comb. Mark these measurements and place the buttplate so the top of the plate is in line with the top of the comb and trace around the butt plate. Now youcan establish to toe line up thru the wrist area. I then cut this pattern out and lay it on my stock blank and transfer the patten to the blank.
This process isn't always a snap. I will at times spend several hours trying to get all these demensions to line up properly and look right.
Each set of barts will require a different pattern. Factory printed "blue print" styled plans aren't going to do you any good unless you're using EXACTLY the same parts as the plans.
Any questions, feel free to ask.
 
On several occasions I have wanted a pattern of a specific gun. I have found that the best option was to copy a picture of the gun, then expand the copy until the length of pull was right for me. At that point I cut out the pattern and tape it onto the stock blank so I can rough out the blank.

This gives you no idea of the exact deminsions of the wrist, forend or forestock, the thickness of the butt or how far out the cheekpiece stands.
 
All but the very best projectors cast a multicolored halo around an object scaled up to the dimensions of a longrifle. That shadowed halo, for lack of a better phrase, makes it impossible to accurately trace the outline of anything as large as a longrifle.


If you have a very bright light and a dark room you can get perfectly scaled images using a pin-hole projector. Artists used pin-hole projections during the Renaissance in Europe for architectural drawings. If you google pin-hole projector you should get a science experiment page on optics that shows how to set one up.

An alternative is to have the photo scaled up on a Xerox machine. Or, scan the photo to your computer, enlarge, and print on banner paper.

You only need the enlargement of the buttstock, to about the front of the lock panels or the entry thimble. The rest can be drawn in later.

Alexander’s book, The Gunsmith of Grenville County has good instructions on making a pattern, however, I have a difficult time of copying the architecture of the gun I plan to build when drawing freehand, as is necessary to complete the drawing of the buttstock.

J.D.
 
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