The Great Lubes Test

[renovato]

Evidently it is an effective penetrate oil. Is this in 'Ballistol' also?
It is in GO-JO.

I wish I knew. I don't know what all is in Ballistol other than the mineral oil and anithole (anise oil). It mixes with water, so I wouldn't be surprised if it had tall oil also. If tall oil is similar to pine oil, I can see it being an ingredient.

I don't know what was available in Germany at the time it was invented. I do know the inventor bought a coal mine to produce it, so it contains coal derivatives. Odd since most petroleum products don't work well with black powder, yet Ballistol does.

 

[hawkeye1755]

ups

 

[hawkeye1755]

And Hey, Undertaker....recently read that Thyssen-Krupp had bought a shipyard and were gearing up to make U-Boats :shocked2:. Can we please be on the same side next time :haha:.

Worlds Most Innovative Non-Nuclear Submarine.The 212 A submarines are currently the most modern conventional subs in the world. As the only sub type that is not nuclear powered, this class of submarines is driven by air-independent propulsion. The use of fuel cells markedly increases the sub's radius of action. Hydrogen and oxygen combine in the fuel-cell module and are converted into electricity. Water is the only waste product that remains. This cutting-edge propulsion system enables the U212A submarines to move virtually noiselessly underwater, thus making them very difficult to detect.
They make a new world record for conventional submarines and make a dived cruise for 2 weeks.
That's why the US Navy wants them.

:hatsoff:

 

[Lone Carabiner]

I use 'mineral oil' in air tools and for hyudraulic clutch fluid. What is it derived from? I haven't any clue. But lo, it is in GO-JO also. :hmm:

 

[roundball]

"...Odd since most petroleum products don't work well with black powder, yet Ballistol does..."

On a related note, after experimenting with Hoppes No9 Plus (BP Solvent & Patch Lube) and finding it to be simply outstanding...leaves a bore so clean you'd think you had just cleaned it...I though it was interesting to see that the label says: "Contains Kerosene"

Must be some sort of requirement that if even a trace amount of Kerosene is in something it must be labled as such, but obviously it's degree of refinement...or simply the amount...must be such that it doesn't cause any of the typical BP & petroleum problems.

And in fact, it's just the opposite...shoot a 50 shot range session, sit the breech end of the barrel in a bucket of hot soapy water, pump flush it and hardly a trace of coloring comes out of the entire bore...amazing stuff for eliminating fouling.

 

[Snuffy]

Plink States
---------
Odd since most petroleum products don't work well with black powder, yet Ballistol does.

Just about any petroleum product works fine inside muzzleloader barrels and on their exteriors. Just don't fire the ML with the non-Ballistol petroleum products inside the bore.

 

[Lone Carabiner]

Running a dry patch down the barrel before loading is always a good idea. To pick up some fouling if your'e shooting or lube if you're starting a shooting session. :thumbsup:

 

[renovato]

I started with the Hoppes lube/solvent some 30 years ago and it's all I used till the last couple years. I tinkered with Bore Butter and a couple others, but always went back to Hoppes. It's good stuff. It took Ballistol to pry me away from my Hoppes. I still carry a bottle of Hoppes to the range with me.

 

[shortjack]

Exactly how do you use ballistol as a patch lubricant. Is it a spray on or do you just soak the patches in it. Does it have to be thinned down with water or do you use it straight from the bottle. I have heard of the stuff from people who use it in their blackpowder cartridge guns like the sharps rifles but only as a cleaner, any information would be greatly appreciated.

 

[renovato]

I mix the Ballistol with 5-7 parts water. Each gun seems to prefer a slightly different ratio for accuracy.

I spray the patches till they're wet, the let them sit out till the water evaporates. This seems to leave the perfect amount of lube behind. The patches feel somewhat dry to the touch, but load very well. I've tried using it straight and it is too wet and messy. You could soak them in the mix if you wanted.

I use the same Ballistol/water mix to clean with for the first few patches, to get out the corrosives, then I finish with a patch of straight Ballistol to cut any remaining crud. This sure makes cleaning easier than the hot water method I used to use.

 

[shortjack]

Thanks for the info Plink, I'll give it a try.

 

[Snuffy]

I mix it 6-1-1 (add Murphy Oil Soap too) but I use 25% water and 75% isoprophyl alcohol - so nuthin'hardens when colder weather arrives.

 

[renovato]

Snuffy, that's a great idea about the alcohol. Here in West Texas, I don't think much about the cold. I let the water evaporate out anyway. Does the addition of the oil soap make it more effective in cleaning?

 

[arcticap]

I use 'mineral oil' in air tools and for hyudraulic clutch fluid. What is it derived from? I haven't any clue. But lo, it is in GO-JO also. :hmm:

"Mineral oil or liquid petrolatum is a by-product in the distillation of petroleum to produce gasoline...."[url] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_oil[/url]

 

[Snuffy]

Snuffy, that's a great idea about the alcohol. Here in West Texas, I don't think much about the cold. I let the water evaporate out anyway. Does the addition of the oil soap make it more effective in cleaning?

I dunno Plink! I got the recipe from Mamaflinter. I think it's her moosemilk recipe. She uses a thinner version of the recipe with FF blackpowder and cutting oil instead of Ballistol - but my ignition is hotter (777 FFF).... so I made it stronger.

Yep... no worries about freezing in most-all of Texas 24/7/365.:winking:

 

WD-40 works....period...I dont like for any other use on any kind of firearm but,when it comes to a black powder gun after using water to clean, it will not rust the trick is to get the barrel clean to start with then dry it out real good then two wet patches of WD-40 to keep it from rusting short term if I were going to store the gun for a long period of time I would then wipe out the WD-40 and use a good gun oil and check it from time to time..... :v

 

[shortjack]

When I oil down a gun for long term storage I use 0-30 synthetic motor oil. Bac in 92 or 93 I saw an article in a gun magazine at the gunsmith shop that compared gun oils in extreme conditions like 100 degrees down to -20. They checked to see how many pounds of pressure it took work the bolt and the trigger in extreme cold conditions and in hot weather how many pounds of pressure it took to do the same in hot dusty conditions and the best oil was Wolfs Head motor oil.It also didn't evaporate as fast.

 

[renovato]

Synthetic motor oil is a great gun oil all around. I've used it in the past on all sorts of modern guns. A lot of commonly available chemicals often work better than specialty gun chemicals.

I just prefer to keep things like that out of my BP barrels. Though it'd probably be a great long term rust proofer.

 

[Slamfire]

Wolf's Head isn't synthetic, it's paraffin based oil. Wait till that paraffin sets up in your bolt/trigger. :shocked2:

 

[Lone Carabiner]

Thanks for the rundown on mineral oil. I know it is slick stuff since it's used to lube air tools, which sometimes have moisture present in them, mainly when running at high-speed in cold temps And hydraulic clutch mechanisms take some hard usage.
Every product that contains petroleum distalles has to have a warning label, GO-JO does, this must be the product that is in it. Along with tall oil, propylene glycol and stuff I can't pronounce.