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A very informative video on tung oil and tung oil finishes.
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The LIES and confusion of Tung Oil wood finish
- Thread starter Woodwright
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Hi,
He has done little to help people except he does discuss some of the many "tung" oil labeled concoctions sold in hardware stores like Minwax tung oil finish and Formby's tung oil finish that have little or no tung oil in them. He completely ignores polymerized tung oil products which are heat treated and mixed with solvents. Tru Oil is very similar but uses polymerized linseed oil mixed with solvents rather than tung oil. Using pure tung oil on a gunstock would be a mess just like using pure linseed oil. It would take forever to dry and offers little good weather resistance. However, that pure oil mixed with a varnish creates an excellent finish that dries in 24 hours and is weather resistant. I use Sutherland-Welles polymerized tung oil to great advantage. The key word is "polymerized" meaning the tung oil was heated and mixed with solvents.
dave
He has done little to help people except he does discuss some of the many "tung" oil labeled concoctions sold in hardware stores like Minwax tung oil finish and Formby's tung oil finish that have little or no tung oil in them. He completely ignores polymerized tung oil products which are heat treated and mixed with solvents. Tru Oil is very similar but uses polymerized linseed oil mixed with solvents rather than tung oil. Using pure tung oil on a gunstock would be a mess just like using pure linseed oil. It would take forever to dry and offers little good weather resistance. However, that pure oil mixed with a varnish creates an excellent finish that dries in 24 hours and is weather resistant. I use Sutherland-Welles polymerized tung oil to great advantage. The key word is "polymerized" meaning the tung oil was heated and mixed with solvents.
dave
@dave_person Do you use interior or exterior? Sealer or no?
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Hi,
Ignore the interior or exterior labels. Exterior usually means the finish has UV light blockers. It is what you might choose if you are painting the rails of a deck. The exterior finishes are just fine for gunstocks and virtually all finishes you guys use for guns would be classified as "interior". I usually do apply thinned first coats (often 50% mineral spirits) to act as a sealer of sorts. No finish penetrates very deeply but a couple of thinned first coats can soak in better in very dense woods such as maple and walnut. If you finish walnut using the sanding slurry grain sealer method, my first coats is mostly unthinned except it often has alkanet root stain infused in turpentine mixed with it, which thins it a little by default. I typically use Sutherland-Welles polymerized tung oil medium sheen. The medium sheen has a pretty shiny gloss so I often add mineral spirits to soften the sheen. Here are two examples in English walnut showing the unthinned finish medium sheen and a softened gloss using thinned finish.
medium sheen
softened sheen
dave
If the product is easy to use, doesn't require days in between coats, and produces a durable result that's pleasing to me, I DON'T CARE WHAT IT'S CALLED. 
(awesome inlays, Dave!!!)
(awesome inlays, Dave!!!)
