Almost everyone who works on a Muzzle Loader will need to use some steel wool.
The following are just a few thoughts about it.
Steel Wool doesn't come off of steel sheep!
There. Got that out of my system.
You can buy it in 8 different grades ranging from #4 Extra Coarse down to #0000 Super Fine. The grades are 4,3,2,1,0,00,000 and 0000.
For deburring the rifleing in a new barrel I usually use the #1 or the #0 but that is only because I haven't seen the coarser grades at my local store.
The deburring, as I do it, consists of unrapping a pad and then tearing off a piece about 1 inch x 1 1/2 and wrapping it around a cleaning jag on a cleaning rod.
It's a chore getting it started in the bore but once in it will slide the full length without too much effort. Running it up and down the bore gets to be tireing but steel wool isn't much harder than the barrel so it takes a lot of time and effort.
I change the pads about every 10-15 in/out cycles because it gets worn out rather fast. You can tell by the resistance to your shove/pull when it needs refreshing.
I have been known to add some oil and find grade valve grinding compound to it but I go to this extreme only after firing some rounds thru a gun that I've "dry deburred" and still finding cut patches. If I worked hard with the dry method, I usually don't have to do this. I also don't really like to use the grinding compound as it leaves little scratches in the bore for fouling (and rust) to get in.
This same dry method can be used to remove rust from the bore if simple cleaning doesn't do the job.
Going to the other extreme in using Steel Wool it is a favorate material for Carding the Browning between rust cycles. I use #0000 for this as I really don't want to cut down thru the Hard Browning that's developing on the barrel.
The main problem I've found with this is it wants to work on the corners a lot more than it wants to work on the center of the flats.
To minimize this, I use my finger to apply pressure to the steel wool only in the center of the barrel flats. This seems to help a lot. Because it is a squishey material, a sanding block just seems to work on the corners of the octagon so I don't use one.
The Real Problem (for browning or blueing) is you work real hard to degrease the barrel so the regient takes evenly. Then when you card off the loose rust the NEXT coat of regient doesn't take evenly. This is because STEEL WOOL IS PRE LUBRICATED!
Birchwood Casey Plum Brown is really susceptible to this contamination between coats. There isn't enough acid/base in Plum Brown for it to cut down thru ANY oil so if you use BC Plumb Brown you defiantly do not want to use "raw" lubricated Steel Wool as it comes from the store between coats.
The factory lubes it to keep it from rusting on the shelf. Used in this condition it is a prime road to a poor job of blueing or browning.
The solution (no pun intended) is to degrease it. I have tried acetone/lacquer thinner/MEK/Brake Cleaner and a few others and NONE of them seem to really work well.
All is not lost though. I've found that pickeling it does the job.
To do this I have used either Lye water or deluted Muratic Acid (hydrochloric acid)(we have lots of swimming pools around here so Muratic Acid is available at the local drug or hardware store.)
The acid method gives off fumes so it's best done outside.
I don't have a exact mixing ratio but with either solution I make it rather strong. After about 10 minutes a good water rinse and a trip to the oven to dry does the job.
Do this only to the amount of steel wool you intend to use in the next day or so because it will rust rapidly after the process.
Do NOT use steel wool on Maple if you plan to stain it with water based stains or with Aquafortis. It will leave tiny pieces of itself in the wood and create rust spots which you cannot get out without resanding.
Steel wool will Rapidly cut thru True Oil/ Linseed oil or any other finish you have built up on the wood. If your not careful, it will also cut thru the staining leaving a light spot on Maple. If you use it, be very gentle.
Used to polish brass it will leave a Matt finish, no better.
Any hints from the rest of you will be appreciated.
The following are just a few thoughts about it.
Steel Wool doesn't come off of steel sheep!
You can buy it in 8 different grades ranging from #4 Extra Coarse down to #0000 Super Fine. The grades are 4,3,2,1,0,00,000 and 0000.
For deburring the rifleing in a new barrel I usually use the #1 or the #0 but that is only because I haven't seen the coarser grades at my local store.
The deburring, as I do it, consists of unrapping a pad and then tearing off a piece about 1 inch x 1 1/2 and wrapping it around a cleaning jag on a cleaning rod.
It's a chore getting it started in the bore but once in it will slide the full length without too much effort. Running it up and down the bore gets to be tireing but steel wool isn't much harder than the barrel so it takes a lot of time and effort.
I change the pads about every 10-15 in/out cycles because it gets worn out rather fast. You can tell by the resistance to your shove/pull when it needs refreshing.
I have been known to add some oil and find grade valve grinding compound to it but I go to this extreme only after firing some rounds thru a gun that I've "dry deburred" and still finding cut patches. If I worked hard with the dry method, I usually don't have to do this. I also don't really like to use the grinding compound as it leaves little scratches in the bore for fouling (and rust) to get in.
This same dry method can be used to remove rust from the bore if simple cleaning doesn't do the job.
Going to the other extreme in using Steel Wool it is a favorate material for Carding the Browning between rust cycles. I use #0000 for this as I really don't want to cut down thru the Hard Browning that's developing on the barrel.
The main problem I've found with this is it wants to work on the corners a lot more than it wants to work on the center of the flats.
To minimize this, I use my finger to apply pressure to the steel wool only in the center of the barrel flats. This seems to help a lot. Because it is a squishey material, a sanding block just seems to work on the corners of the octagon so I don't use one.
The Real Problem (for browning or blueing) is you work real hard to degrease the barrel so the regient takes evenly. Then when you card off the loose rust the NEXT coat of regient doesn't take evenly. This is because STEEL WOOL IS PRE LUBRICATED!
Birchwood Casey Plum Brown is really susceptible to this contamination between coats. There isn't enough acid/base in Plum Brown for it to cut down thru ANY oil so if you use BC Plumb Brown you defiantly do not want to use "raw" lubricated Steel Wool as it comes from the store between coats.
The factory lubes it to keep it from rusting on the shelf. Used in this condition it is a prime road to a poor job of blueing or browning.
The solution (no pun intended) is to degrease it. I have tried acetone/lacquer thinner/MEK/Brake Cleaner and a few others and NONE of them seem to really work well.
All is not lost though. I've found that pickeling it does the job.
To do this I have used either Lye water or deluted Muratic Acid (hydrochloric acid)(we have lots of swimming pools around here so Muratic Acid is available at the local drug or hardware store.)
The acid method gives off fumes so it's best done outside.
I don't have a exact mixing ratio but with either solution I make it rather strong. After about 10 minutes a good water rinse and a trip to the oven to dry does the job.
Do this only to the amount of steel wool you intend to use in the next day or so because it will rust rapidly after the process.
Do NOT use steel wool on Maple if you plan to stain it with water based stains or with Aquafortis. It will leave tiny pieces of itself in the wood and create rust spots which you cannot get out without resanding.
Steel wool will Rapidly cut thru True Oil/ Linseed oil or any other finish you have built up on the wood. If your not careful, it will also cut thru the staining leaving a light spot on Maple. If you use it, be very gentle.
Used to polish brass it will leave a Matt finish, no better.
Any hints from the rest of you will be appreciated.
