Thread size for GPR ramrod?
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longcruise
70 Cal.
If it's a GPR Lyman/Investarms rod, then it is metric. Don't know the exact size though! :redface:
But, main reason for my response is to suggest that you make or buy a new one with a 10-32 thread. There are more fittings commonly available for that size. There are many 8-32 too, but I go for 10-32 just to be a bit more stout.
The rods that come with the GPR are notoriously weak and tend to break easlily.
Hope that helps.
But, main reason for my response is to suggest that you make or buy a new one with a 10-32 thread. There are more fittings commonly available for that size. There are many 8-32 too, but I go for 10-32 just to be a bit more stout.
The rods that come with the GPR are notoriously weak and tend to break easlily.
Hope that helps.
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Metric or not, it fits standard US brushes. I wanna say 10-32, but as Marmotslayer points out, they break easy, and it's been a loooong time since I had the original.
ohio ramrod
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I always glue and cross pin ramrod tips no matter what material I am using for the rod. The only exception being solid brass rods which I just tap for the desired tip and screw the tip on.Removing a pulled/broken off tip is the worst problem most shooters will come across. So it should be avoided . :surrender:
The factory GPR ramrod has 10 x 32 threads. You don't need to cross-pin the ramrod tips because they are threaded inside and screwed onto the wood and heat glued. You will not pull them off! I just replaced a GPR ramrod tip so know this information firsthand.
derek.white
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Do you use an epoxy or just elmers glue. I am replacing a tip on a hickory ramrod. I drove the pins out and they seemed to be silver solder, because they were very plyable.. Sorry for such a newbie question but I'm just learning. Trial by Fire!!
paulvallandigham
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Epoxy adheres better to wood and metal, than Elmer's so it would be the best choice. Always pin the ferrules to the wood, no matter how they are otherwise attached. Wood dries and shrinks with age, and it will even loosen from Epoxy glues in time.
derek.white
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What is best to use for the pins?
Thanks for your help
Thanks for your help
longcruise
70 Cal.
Whatever wire nails or rod you have on hand that matches a drill you have on hand as long as it is not rediculously large. Anyway, that's how I do it. :redface:
My last experience with the threads on a GPR rod was with my first kit. It came with a metric threaded jag and a broken rod. :shocked2:
Ever since i have just automatically thrown those rods away tip and all and replaced with my own with 10-32. None of the other guns or kits I have messed with came with the jag though.
paulvallandigham
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I bought a piece of brazing rod, from a machine shop. It has a high nickel content. It peens over easier than does soft steel nails. i have used nails in the past, however, and they do a fine job. Just takes a bit more hammering to get them to peen. I use a 1/16" diameter rod or nail.
Cut the head and point off to get a straight rod of equal diameter, put the rod through the ferrule and wood RR., with glue in the hole to help hold the rod. ( You can use a triangle file to file grooves in the shaft of the pin to give a place for the glue to HOLD onto the pin inside the wood Ramrod.)Then, cut the ends off close to the ferrule, and peen the heads over by putting the end of the rod(pin) on to a piece of steel- like the top of your bench vise-- and hammering the other side with a machinist hammer, with a ball "Peen" on the end.
Alternate the ends of the rod you are striking with the hammer until one end upsets enough to fill the countersink hole in the ferrule. File the peens down to your countersink, so that the pins are flush with the outside of the ferrules.
Once I have drilled the holes, and countersink, this takes about 5 minutes to complete if I take my time.
Cut the head and point off to get a straight rod of equal diameter, put the rod through the ferrule and wood RR., with glue in the hole to help hold the rod. ( You can use a triangle file to file grooves in the shaft of the pin to give a place for the glue to HOLD onto the pin inside the wood Ramrod.)Then, cut the ends off close to the ferrule, and peen the heads over by putting the end of the rod(pin) on to a piece of steel- like the top of your bench vise-- and hammering the other side with a machinist hammer, with a ball "Peen" on the end.
Alternate the ends of the rod you are striking with the hammer until one end upsets enough to fill the countersink hole in the ferrule. File the peens down to your countersink, so that the pins are flush with the outside of the ferrules.
Once I have drilled the holes, and countersink, this takes about 5 minutes to complete if I take my time.
derek.white
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Thank you sir!! :grin:
I use 1/16th brass for the pins cause thats what I have, it brads up nice if ya do a slight countersink (chamfer) in the hole on each side
as for the not pinning advice take that for what its worth. yeah the Lyman factory rod ends are threaded but not very well, in fact the glue on mine adhered to the wood but not to the brass so it can come off real easy by hand, Id hate to see you try to pull a tight brush with it like that
besides, its worth the 10 minutes and 2 pennies worth of material you'll use
as for the not pinning advice take that for what its worth. yeah the Lyman factory rod ends are threaded but not very well, in fact the glue on mine adhered to the wood but not to the brass so it can come off real easy by hand, Id hate to see you try to pull a tight brush with it like that
besides, its worth the 10 minutes and 2 pennies worth of material you'll use
ohio ramrod
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I use a gap filling epoxy and 1/16 brass pins for both wood and fiberglass.Elmers and most other wood glues will not bond to the brass!
longcruise
70 Cal.
I have used finishing nails, "brass" tacks (could be made of anything, 1/16 or 1/8 or 3/32 brass rod stock and in one case spring steel piano wire. Don't think it much matters. I make a wood ram rod and a metal range rod the same way except that when making a range rod the metal rod is the size of the opening in the mounting end of the rod tip. On wood rods I usually make a 3/8 th rod with a 3/8th rod tip. It calls for carefully filing the wood rod down to 5/16th. It can be filed round or with a series of flats. Epoxy fills the gaps. Most important is to keep it straight so the rod tip will be straight.
I punch the rod tip for two holes since I prefer two pins. Once the first hole is drilled through the rod tip and the rod material, then I put a piece of pin material through the tip and rod while drilling the second. That assures that both pins will align later when you put the glue in and then insert the pins. One pin is probably all you need though.
My pins are usually overlength. When the epoxy is set I cut them off with wire cutters and then file to match the rod tip.
derek.white
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Thanks for all of your responses.. :grin:
Don't even think a glued rod tip will stay on the RR if it is put under stress, or it gets aged or both. If you read posts on this site you will find Dozens of occasions where guys have their jags & RR tips stuck at the breech & the tip pulled off the rod. :shake:
Take the rod to a belt sander & sand off the measured end of the rod as you rotate it on the sander til it is sanded down to where it will barely go all the way into the RR tip. If you don't have a belt sander, take a Exacto knife & cut a ring around the rod at the measured length of the tip, then cut a half V going to that line around the line cutting from the short end. Now you have half a V about ? 3/4" of the way from the end of the rod. Now take a rasp & rasp off the wood up to that V while rotating the rod, do this until the tip will barely slide on. Then take a piece or emery cloth or sand paper & roll it up & put it in the RR tip & twist the emery cloth in the tip to roughen the insides a bit.
Next I take a countersinking tool & I bevel the inside of the RR tip edges just a tad, where the RR is going to go in..
Take a metal file edge & I make a couple light file marks in a spiral form (like a barber pole stripe) on the sanded wood surface where the tip goes over the ramrod.
Now take a piece of posterboard or a piece of cardboard off the back of something you bought from the store (thin) & lay the RR tip over it (big hole end) and tap it with a hammer lightly to make a indentation. Now cut out the small circle you indented & put the small dot of paper into the end of the RR tip to block the thru hole where the threads start. (YOu can push it into the end with a round punch) Mix up some epoxy or Acraglas Gel & put some in the hole & some on the sanded ramrod end. Push the ramrod end into the tip & twist it on tight forcing the excess glue out. Wipe off excess & let dry overnight. Stand on end with tip down.
After setting all night, take a auto centerpunch & make a punch about 1/4" from the wood/brass edge in the center of the tip. Drill it with appropriate sized drill for same size hole as a #3 finish nail. (aprox .067 to .070") Drill it thru & then take a countersinking bit & bevel the edges of the holes you just drilled. Insert #3 finish nail & tap it in snug & clip off excess with a pair of sidecuts or needlenose pliers. File excess on same side til you have about 1/32" of nail sticking out. Put the nail head on your vice & on side sticking up peen it over carefully with a small hammer. File flush turn over & file down the nail head & then peen it over til flush, & file it off nicely.
You may break the rod, or twist it in two, but you will NOT pull the tip off.
Keith Lisle
Take the rod to a belt sander & sand off the measured end of the rod as you rotate it on the sander til it is sanded down to where it will barely go all the way into the RR tip. If you don't have a belt sander, take a Exacto knife & cut a ring around the rod at the measured length of the tip, then cut a half V going to that line around the line cutting from the short end. Now you have half a V about ? 3/4" of the way from the end of the rod. Now take a rasp & rasp off the wood up to that V while rotating the rod, do this until the tip will barely slide on. Then take a piece or emery cloth or sand paper & roll it up & put it in the RR tip & twist the emery cloth in the tip to roughen the insides a bit.
Next I take a countersinking tool & I bevel the inside of the RR tip edges just a tad, where the RR is going to go in..
Take a metal file edge & I make a couple light file marks in a spiral form (like a barber pole stripe) on the sanded wood surface where the tip goes over the ramrod.
Now take a piece of posterboard or a piece of cardboard off the back of something you bought from the store (thin) & lay the RR tip over it (big hole end) and tap it with a hammer lightly to make a indentation. Now cut out the small circle you indented & put the small dot of paper into the end of the RR tip to block the thru hole where the threads start. (YOu can push it into the end with a round punch) Mix up some epoxy or Acraglas Gel & put some in the hole & some on the sanded ramrod end. Push the ramrod end into the tip & twist it on tight forcing the excess glue out. Wipe off excess & let dry overnight. Stand on end with tip down.
After setting all night, take a auto centerpunch & make a punch about 1/4" from the wood/brass edge in the center of the tip. Drill it with appropriate sized drill for same size hole as a #3 finish nail. (aprox .067 to .070") Drill it thru & then take a countersinking bit & bevel the edges of the holes you just drilled. Insert #3 finish nail & tap it in snug & clip off excess with a pair of sidecuts or needlenose pliers. File excess on same side til you have about 1/32" of nail sticking out. Put the nail head on your vice & on side sticking up peen it over carefully with a small hammer. File flush turn over & file down the nail head & then peen it over til flush, & file it off nicely.
You may break the rod, or twist it in two, but you will NOT pull the tip off.
Keith Lisle
derek.white
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I am new to this site and everyone has been very helpfel. Thank you all very much!!
This will be tomorrows project.. Cant wait.. :thumbsup:
Derek
This will be tomorrows project.. Cant wait.. :thumbsup:
Derek
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Things may still go wrong but it makes for one less thing to feel so dang dumb about :wink:
