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you can get a correct jaw screw from www.muzzleloaderbuilderssupply.com for around 4 dollars.
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tightening the jaw screw pushes the flint out?
- Thread starter schuetzenisbestBP
- Start date
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Your flint is way too short. Being so far in front of the jaw screw it is just pushing it out, it’s not clamping on it.
The hole in your leather is there to give more clearance for your flint to go as close to the jaw screw as possible.
On half **** with the frizzen closed measure from the jaw screw to the frizzen, square from the screw. That is your maximum length, order a flint slightly (1/8 inch) shorter with the width the same as the fizzen width.
The hole in your leather is there to give more clearance for your flint to go as close to the jaw screw as possible.
On half **** with the frizzen closed measure from the jaw screw to the frizzen, square from the screw. That is your maximum length, order a flint slightly (1/8 inch) shorter with the width the same as the fizzen width.
Brokennock
Cannon
Simple fix....
Buy a Kibler.
Buy a Kibler.
Let's take a look at how your flint is installed in the jaw of the ****.
What I see is that @schuetzenisbestBP has a replacement for the original jaw screw. He has used a stack of washers and a nut to tighten the flint between the jaws of the ****. As observed in previous posts that bottom washer is allowing the front of the jaws to lift and force the flint out of position. The jaw screw must be replaced.
As a temporary fix, a smaller flat washer and fewer washers to reduce the weight of the hammer can be tried. The use of a short tube as @IanH suggests would also work. Of course, getting the correct replacement jaw screw as @deerstalkert suggests is the best solution. Do make the hole in the leather larger and oblong to better wrap around the jae screw.
What I see is that @schuetzenisbestBP has a replacement for the original jaw screw. He has used a stack of washers and a nut to tighten the flint between the jaws of the ****. As observed in previous posts that bottom washer is allowing the front of the jaws to lift and force the flint out of position. The jaw screw must be replaced.
As a temporary fix, a smaller flat washer and fewer washers to reduce the weight of the hammer can be tried. The use of a short tube as @IanH suggests would also work. Of course, getting the correct replacement jaw screw as @deerstalkert suggests is the best solution. Do make the hole in the leather larger and oblong to better wrap around the jae screw.
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Best would be to get the right bolt, but cut your bolt with a Dremel, hacksaw or file rather than the stack of washers.
CuNosecap
45 Cal.
Correct bolt, correct size flint=fixed problem.
That will wreck a lock.
appalichian hunter
75 Cal.
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Why not get a correct jaw screw. Thinner flint leather and a correct flint, I think your problem will go away then.
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any anecdotal evidence for this? don't get me wrong, i detest using lead but it does have historical usage. would like to know what damage it may cause if at some future time i am forced with a gun at my head to use lead for flint wrap?
The shock can and will break tumblers. It adds too much weight to the ****. The military used it, because it was an expedient and they were willing to fix the locks, or discard them altogether. Plus, they always had a bullet to smash and use, while leather may not be readily available. Ask any modern lock maker if they will warrant their locks when lead has been used.any anecdotal evidence for this? don't get me wrong, i detest using lead but it does have historical usage. would like to know what damage it may cause if at some future time i am forced with a gun at my head to use lead for flint wrap?
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my two cents:
i have used both lead and leather for flint wraps. now i can't attest to what others might or might not be using for lead wraps, but out of curiosity one afternoon, i busted out my old and reliable reloading scale (good to 1/10th of a grain - remember 7000 grains to the pound, 437.5 to an ounce) and weighed them up ... there was as much as about 120 grains to about 15 grain difference between the flint and the leather, so switching flints may well make up for the difference... in other words, the difference isn't enough (in my opinion) to make that much of a bother... inexplicably the lead vs. leather thing will generate enough ill will to start a good bar fight.
so try it out and see which works best in your particular system - i have some which like leather, and one which does much better with lead. go with what works for you.
the flint he had is way too small, and he needs to contact Track of the Wolf and get some proper sized ones (and a correct scerw) and this problem will go away.
best of luck, and Make Good Smoke
i have used both lead and leather for flint wraps. now i can't attest to what others might or might not be using for lead wraps, but out of curiosity one afternoon, i busted out my old and reliable reloading scale (good to 1/10th of a grain - remember 7000 grains to the pound, 437.5 to an ounce) and weighed them up ... there was as much as about 120 grains to about 15 grain difference between the flint and the leather, so switching flints may well make up for the difference... in other words, the difference isn't enough (in my opinion) to make that much of a bother... inexplicably the lead vs. leather thing will generate enough ill will to start a good bar fight.
so try it out and see which works best in your particular system - i have some which like leather, and one which does much better with lead. go with what works for you.
the flint he had is way too small, and he needs to contact Track of the Wolf and get some proper sized ones (and a correct scerw) and this problem will go away.
best of luck, and Make Good Smoke
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Beat lead into thin sheet, use that instead of leather. Make sure there's little "spikes" on the face of the jaws that hold the flint so things don't slip out under pressure; some locks have them that way from the factory.
64Springer
75 Cal.
Add another washer.
Eight Is Enough only works for TV shows.
Eight Is Enough only works for TV shows.
Oh good lord. Stop. Just stop and get the right top jaw screw. Get a better flint as that one is too tiny. Buy 3-4.
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i see you are in Idaho. measure that ace hardware bolt for diameter and thread pitch and post it. i have a drawer with a few **** screws and if i have a match i will send it to you. If you are close to Bonners Ferry i can hand carry it to you. doubt i will be needing them.
Ha, ha, ha -- you all are too funny - I feel sorry for the OP. I have an India made Bess **** in front of me at the moment and here is a picture of it. The leather is a piece of pig skin - I like to use leather. I would use a chisel or graver and put teeth into your jaws, get the correct jaw screw, check to see if the top jaw moves freely without a flint and the jaw screw installed, put a flint in the jaw with a thin piece of leather and as you tighten the jaw screw contacts the flint does the jaw pivot to conform to the angle of the flint - if so - that is good if not then the top jaw is binding against the jaw screw or the back of the ****. The top jaw has to be able to move to conform to the flint so that the top and bottom jaw can tighten down on the flint.
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Both the top of the flint and the bottom need to be flat to get the jaws to grip. It you have a pointed top of the flint, or it looks like a pyramid shape, you can rub the top on a piece of coarse emery cloth to remove the bulb on top of the flint.
