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Tip borrowed from TC encore assembly as applied to reassembly of percussion revolvers.

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some of you may already do this.........if so click on another thread. discovered this week while cleaning 1849 pocket.

when reassembling, use a q-tip with one end clipped off as a guidance rod. when aligning either bolt screw or trigger screw......(you might have this handy laying around during this for cleaning purposes.)

run QT shaft thru hole to threaded side aligning whichever part during this process.

especially handy if not alot of light is available to see tiny parts and the holes that need lined up.

then from the thread accepting side.......follow the QT back through with screw/bolt. doing this keeps you from losing alignment or orientation with everything.

I cursed a lot less this way and made life easy for me. will take pics next time for further clarity.

using a fashioned "guidance rod" was the big epiphany for me.

camo
 
some of you may already do this.........if so click on another thread. discovered this week while cleaning 1849 pocket.

when reassembling, use a q-tip with one end clipped off as a guidance rod. when aligning either bolt screw or trigger screw......(you might have this handy laying around during this for cleaning purposes.)

run QT shaft thru hole to threaded side aligning whichever part during this process.

especially handy if not alot of light is available to see tiny parts and the holes that need lined up.

then from the thread accepting side.......follow the QT back through with screw/bolt. doing this keeps you from losing alignment or orientation with everything.

I cursed a lot less this way and made life easy for me. will take pics next time for further clarity.

using a fashioned "guidance rod" was the big epiphany for me.

camo
Thank you, good tip !
 
This technique is known as using a "slave pin" and it doesn't necessarily need to be a Q-tip shaft, in fact it's better if some smooth metal shaft is used for greater strength, such as another small pin or a nail with the head nipped off. Something that's long enough and large enough in diameter to hold the parts in alignment, even under spring pressure, while the proper pin is driven in, or the proper screw engages and is well started in. The slave pin is driven out the opposite side by driving the assembly pin in or by screwing the screw in, or can be pulled out by a pliers when the parts are being held by the proper pin or screw.
 
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This technique is known as using a "slave pin" and it doesn't necessarily need to be a Q-tip shaft, in fact it's better if some smooth metal shaft is used for greater strength, such as another small pin or a nail with the head nipped off. Something that's long enough and large enough in diameter to hold the parts in alignment, even under spring pressure, while the proper pin is driven in, or the proper screw engages and is well started in. The slave pin is driven out the opposite side by driving the assembly pin in or by screwing the screw in, or can be pulled out by a pliers when the parts are being held by the proper pin or screw.
yes stonger material could be used.

QT easily found, cut, non-marring to bluing or case hardened finish.

either way can confirm diameter works with 1849 pocket. no pliers, driving, or tools needed with this.

no spring pressure during because you haven't re installed the trigger/bolt spring yet.

camo
 
So the screw pins themselves don't do the same thing ?

Mike
uh. no

if you're holding pieces trying to get it to align.......why not a little help ???

you can't just magically throw a bolt into there and expect it to Align perfectly........unless you are a magician.

takes some manipulation to get things lined up ? No?

(spoken with the utmost respect 45D as I know you know your stuff)

camo
 
....

if you're holding pieces trying to get it to align.......why not a little help ???

you can't just magically throw a bolt into there and expect it to Align perfectly........unless you are a magician.

takes some manipulation to get things lined up ? No?

....

I hear ya, and especially as someone with stiff and arthritic fingers and not particularly all that deft even before that started, I'm happy with all the help I can get!!
 
I'll try and do a pictorial but I've never had a problem using the "pin" section of the "screw-pins" as an alignment tool. It just seems to me that if you can do it with a Q-tip shaft, you can do it with the screw-pin and do it one time instead of twice.

Mike
 
Ok, no hammer ( install hammer first and it will "hold" bolt and trigger in place for you), bolt laying in position, notice how the holes line up basically perfect, insert screw-pin, holes will self align and push pin on home, tighten screw.
20240817_111433.jpg

20240817_111450.jpg

20240817_111505.jpg


Don't really know how it could be any simpler . . .

Mike
 
This time with hammer installed. Install bolt just like above. Then insert trigger ( it'll stand between the bolt arm and the frame). Start pin, push on through and tighten screw.
20240817_112524.jpg

20240817_112539.jpg

20240817_112602.jpg

20240817_112647.jpg

What am I missing?

Mike
 
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So, the sequence goes -Hamer w/hand first, bolt and then the trigger.
Afterwards, you can remove the bolt or trigger or hammer singley because the "still installed" parts will hold the part being reinstalled in position. Of course if you "gut" the whole thing then the "sequence" will easily get it back together.
( same sequence for other SA revolvers).

@camoloc , I appreciate your respect and I offer mine as well. Sometimes it's hard to "see" how else a certain job could be done. After you've done it as many times as I have you develop the least "headache" producing method/ sequence.
When having to adjust the full cock notch to arrive at a positive engagement, it's easiest to assemble the revolver without the hand and grip or panels. That allows you to slide the main spring from under the hammer and then remove the hammer without having to remove any other parts.
That's just a "for instance" after doing it the hard way for years. My wife and I call it "growing a brain cell" 😆.


Mike
 
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