Today's purchase

[tom in nc]

We, my dog & I, drove, actually I did all the driving, he rode shotgun, about an hour today to get this Pietta Remington and accessories. The seller says it was bought new, by him, in the mid eighties. He says he shot it with the Pydrodex, 12 times then cleaned it and oiled it. Included with the pistol was a shoulder holster, the remaining Pydrodex, a can of Goex FFF, the remaining round balls, the tin of caps, the bag of lubed wads, a nipple prick, a powder flask, and all the paperwork that came with the gun. All the accessories were in an Ammo box. He has polished the internal parts so it operates smoothly. I got it all for about what the accessories would cost.

 

[William P Sepessy]

Once in a while you get lucky like this. Does your dog like it?

 

[Jappo]

I have a holster similar to that. Had no idea what it was. Its been modified though. I was going to toss it away.

 

[TDM]

Heck of a deal @tom in nc! Congratulations!

 

[tom in nc]

I believe our holsters were made for large frame magnum unmentionables like Dirty Harry carried. I would prefer a belt holster, maybe even a flap holster.

 

[M. De Land]

View attachment 263035View attachment 263037View attachment 263038We, my dog & I, drove, actually I did all the driving, he rode shotgun, about an hour today to get this Pietta Remington and accessories. The seller says it was bought new, by him, in the mid eighties. He says he shot it with the Pydrodex, 12 times then cleaned it and oiled it. Included with the pistol was a shoulder holster, the remaining Pydrodex, a can of Goex FFF, the remaining round balls, the tin of caps, the bag of lubed wads, a nipple prick, a powder flask, and all the paperwork that came with the gun. All the accessories were in an Ammo box. He has polished the internal parts so it operates smoothly. I got it all for about what the accessories would cost.

Nice score and all the makings for a fine match pistol are present but it does need some timing work from the looks of the bolt drag mark on the cylinder. My mid 80's Pietta 58 had similar issues that are corrected and is my main match gun now and will out shoot my ROA.
I like the bolt to drop about mid way between the bolt notches in the cylinder to bleed off/dampen inertia into final lock up but purist can only abide bolt drop into the lead cut or declare the gun out of time. The cylinder picks up rotation speed through it's cycle and the early bolt drop and it's spring tension on the cylinder circumference helps check that energy that slams the bolt against both the window wall in the frame and the stop side of the notch in the cylinder.
Make sure the bolt nose/dome is polished without compromising (rounding off) the corner profiles so it will not gall the cylinder.

 

[Whitworth]

Nice rig and well bought.

 

[45D]

I like the bolt to drop about mid way between the bolt notches in the cylinder to bleed off/dampen inertia into final lock up but purist can only abide bolt drop into the lead cut or declare the gun out of time. The cylinder picks up rotation speed through it's cycle and the early bolt drop and it's spring tension on the cylinder circumference helps check that energy that slams the bolt against both the window wall in the frame and the stop side of the notch in the cylinder.

Never has been a problem with competition guns . . . wonder why a "not so speed" sensitive competition revolver would need such an early bolt drop . . .


Mike

 

[Crow Choker]

IMO the best part of the deal was that Bianchi X-15 shoulder holster. One of the finest if not the finest shoulder holster ever made. I have four of them. One for short barrel revolvers, two for around 4", and one for longer barreled hoglegs. Used them through out my 21 year LEO career, balance very well, secure, and firearm draws nice. The earlier ones made while John Bianchi still owed the company were the best before Safariland bought em out. The only gripe I've ever had with them is when the elastic gets stretched out. Call the company and ask for a new harness, they won't sell and ship. Was advised I needed to send entire holster in for replacement due to legal reasons. Overplayed lawyer manure. I went to a fabric store and bought similar elastic material and made my own. The Remington is nice to 'tom in nc'!

 

[M. De Land]

Never has been a problem with competition guns . . . wonder why a "not so speed" sensitive competition revolver would need such an early bolt drop . . .


Mike

I think it makes them stay laterally tight longer which aids alignment.

 

[Dobegrant]

Congratulations on nice find

 

[45D]

I think it makes them stay laterally tight longer which aids alignment.

How?

Mike

 

[M. De Land]

How?

Mike

It discourages impact compression by the bolt from cylinder inertia in both cylinder notch and frame window , the bolt being of much harder steel than is either of the other two components.
Bolt Impact compression of both frame window and cylinder notch is what makes well used guns have more lateral play in lock up than does a new tight,well fit gun. Less lateral play amounts to more consistent alignment and thus accuracy, shot to shot , assuming it was good to begin with.

 

[45D]

It discourages impact compression by the bolt from cylinder inertia in both cylinder notch and frame window , the bolt being of much harder steel than is either of the other two components.
Bolt Impact compression of both frame window and cylinder notch is what makes well used guns have more lateral play in lock up than does a new tight,well fit gun. Less lateral play amounts to more consistent alignment and thus accuracy, shot to shot , assuming it was good to begin with.

Well actually, that's what the bolt block is for. Rotational force of the cyl trys to push the bolt to the "less supported " side of the bolt. The bolt window is obviously larger than the bolt ( or it wouldn't be able to move) so the block becomes the "default support" for the lateral force. That allows one to use closer tolerances than the bolt window itself.
Because it won't allow the bolt to be pushed down (bolt head remains vertical), it keeps the locking notches in the cyl from damage. This is what takes care of throw-by (over rotation) and allows "fast handling" without damage ( on a correctly timed revolver).

Mike

 

[M. De Land]

Well actually, that's what the bolt block is for. Rotational force of the cyl trys to push the bolt to the "less supported " side of the bolt. The bolt window is obviously larger than the bolt ( or it wouldn't be able to move) so the block becomes the "default support" for the lateral force. That allows one to use closer tolerances than the bolt window itself.
Because it won't allow the bolt to be pushed down (bolt head remains vertical), it keeps the locking notches in the cyl from damage. This is what takes care of throw-by (over rotation) and allows "fast handling" without damage ( on a correctly timed revolver).
View attachment 263226

Mike

I understand the logic and theory of of a bolt block but it is one of those solutions I have mentioned in search of a problem when the early bolt drop can provide added protection to an already adequate system from bolt compression into window wall or cylinder notch.
The other thing about a bolt block I don't care for is that it is below the window and not on the same compression plane between window wall and cylinder notch. It also tends to crowd the bolt to the side out of normal window fit, vertical alignment allowance. The window wall when aided by early bolt drop dampening is more than adequate to align and support against lateral bolt compression without any other support help when properly fit to bolt width. Sam and all other revolver manufactures before or since believed this true without early bolt drop support hence bolt blocks or added window thickness is not found in original or current construction.

 

[45D]

I understand the logic and theory of of a bolt block but it is one of those solutions I have mentioned in search of a problem when the early bolt drop can provide added protection to an already adequate system from bolt compression into window wall or cylinder notch.
The other thing about a bolt block I don't care for is that it is below the window and not on the same compression plane between window wall and cylinder notch. It also tends to crowd the bolt to the side out of normal window fit, vertical alignment allowance. The window wall when aided by early bolt drop dampening is more than adequate to align and support against lateral bolt compression without any other support help when properly fit to bolt width. Sam and all other revolver manufactures before or since believed this true without early bolt drop support hence bolt blocks or added window thickness is not found in original or current construction.

I was wondering if you were going to go down the "solution looking for a problem" trail. How petty ( notice, I didn't use that one on you . . ).
But, you in fact say that early bolt drop solves the "problem" . . . so, that is an admission of a "need for a solution" . . . yours is right and mine is wrong. I get it.
Fact is, the bolt window IS bigger than it needs to be but it's OK for you. I say make it closer tolerance and you say it's not needed .
I guess all SA revolvers come from the manufacturer in absolute perfection as nothing can make them run better, perform better . . . since they don't come "tuned" . . . or with a factory "bolt block". I wonder why Colt, Magnum Research, Freedom Arms , S&W offer a "tuning" package in their custom shop.
Most "high end" revolver smiths offer a "bolt block" of some sort . . . wonder why . . . couldn't be because it works!

Mike

 

[45D]

If I could ask a question, tell me what changes with early bolt drop? The end result is the same factory window and a bolt being pushed to the unsupported side ( other than the oversized window) and a "beauty ring".

All my revolvers will support fanning ( even though I don't recommend it), I doubt yours would.

Mike

 

[45D]

For the rest of you folks interested in learning something, here is a fitted bolt ( fitted to the locking notch) sitting in the factory window.

And here is the same bolt in the same window with a bolt block.
Notice there is no light and bolt function is perfect.

Early bolt drop ends with the same thing as the first picture.

Mike

 

[M. De Land]

I was wondering if you were going to go down the "solution looking for a problem" trail. How petty ( notice, I didn't use that one on you . . ).
But, you in fact say that early bolt drop solves the "problem" . . . so, that is an admission of a "need for a solution" . . . yours is right and mine is wrong. I get it.
Fact is, the bolt window IS bigger than it needs to be but it's OK for you. I say make it closer tolerance and you say it's not needed .
I guess all SA revolvers come from the manufacturer in absolute perfection as nothing can make them run better, perform better . . . since they don't come "tuned" . . . or with a factory "bolt block". I wonder why Colt, Magnum Research, Freedom Arms , S&W offer a "tuning" package in their custom shop.
Most "high end" revolver smiths offer a "bolt block" of some sort . . . wonder why . . . couldn't be because it works!

Mike

Point 1. I said early bolt drop helps support against bolt compression of window wall and cylinder notch.
Point 2. It is a solution in search of a problem as manufacture design, past or present, has not changed it that I'm aware of in any currently manufactured revolver, modern design or reproduction.
Point 3. A bolts stop is below the window so there for must crowd the vertical movement of the bolt to relieve any window side wall impact from the bolt. Actually given a bolts necessary clearance tolerance to move vertically unimpeded I doubt the lower level bolt stop has any real benefit in window wall compression resistance as the bolt moves in a slight tilt laterally from the actual impact above the window plane and it's necessary movement clearance .
Point 4. Never said my thinking was right or the only way and that yours was wrong. I said I believe it to be a solution in search of any real problem as production guns of any kind I'm aware of come with added window depth of artificial support.

 

[45D]

Point 1. I said early bolt drop helps support against bolt compression of window wall and cylinder notch.
Point 2. It is a solution in search of a problem as manufacture design, past or present, has not changed it that I'm aware of in any currently manufactured revolver, modern design or reproduction.
Point 3. A bolts stop is below the window so there for must crowd the vertical movement of the bolt to relieve any window side wall impact from the bolt. Actually given a bolts necessary clearance tolerance to move vertically unimpeded I doubt the lower level bolt stop has any real benefit in window wall compression resistance as the bolt moves in a slight tilt laterally from the actual impact above the window plane and it's necessary movement clearance .
Point 4. Never said my thinking was right or the only way and that yours was wrong. I said I believe it to be a solution in search of any real problem as production guns of any kind I'm aware of come with added window depth of artificial support.

Point 1 - makes no sense. Early or late, it's the same bolt head ( ball) in the same bolt window which has the same amount of slop.

Point 2 - So manufacturers produce goods that are perfect and can't be improved on. Ok.

Point 3 - 90% of the bolt is below the frame surface. The screw pin holes in the bolt arms is where the slop is and the window allows it to move. So, the block laying along the side of the bolt actually does restrict movement from slop so that it can't tilt (and allow throw-by) like I said.

That is exactly the whole point!

Point 4 - Pretty much encompasses anything "after market" as to a manufacturers product. Apparently nothing can be improved on . . . even by those very manufacturers that offer "aftermarket" services.

Wow!!
Mike