There is an old but not very good trick to tighten handles by soaking them in water. It works but the water evaporates and it's loose again. If you use BLO it works and doesn't evaporate. I suspect this is the same for kerosene.
Yep, works as an emergency fix on hammers and axes when nothing else can be done at the time. Wet soaked handles though are prone to rot and will eventually break. I like to keep my handles dry and sealed from moisture, which is probably why I have good luck with my methods of attaching a hawk handle.
A tomahawk handle though isn't made like a hammer or axe handle. "Tight" relies on wedging friction to stay in place as the handle thins down its length. A hammer or axe relies on wedges driven in the top and swelling the wood out in the wider portion of the eye, trapping the head between two wide parts of the handle.
The simple fix for a loose hawk head is to just smack the head tighter by pounding the eye end, top, of the handle with another hawk, or strike straight down on a rock. This lasts for a little while but with no mechanical lock, and only the wedging friction, it will come loose again.
The entire theory behind this design was to allow the user back in the day to quickly hack out a new handle beside the campfire with his knife or with the tomahawk head, and replace a handle with no other tools needed.
So unless you simply enjoy replacing handles and can't wait until the next time you have to, why not just use what's available today and make a good tool less likely to fail you? Certainly epoxy isn't PC but if I didn't tell you about it you wouldn't know.
Certainly a roll pin isn't PC but I'll trade a handle that stays put long term over constantly tightening a handle up during a throwing session.
A small iron rivet peened over on the ends probably could pass for PC if it really mattered.
