Tomahawk throw

[76monza]

Musketman,
With normal size hawks splitting the handles and whittling away is the name of the game. With this Hawk-of-Doom we're talking about, (Just about 2 1/2 foot long and weighs at least 5 lbs.), it's not just the handle you have to worry about. You take a chance of losing the hawk head! And the scary thing is he can throw that hawk proficiently.

Smokeydays

 

[musketman]

Thanks...

 

[Deadeye]

At the Anazazi Mt. Man club in St. George ,Utah they have a terrific permanent hawk and knife throw. There are targets that move back and forth, targets that spin, that go around in a circle, that come out of the ground then go back down again, and a gravity target that comes right at you. Best I've seen anywhere.

 

[LONEWOLF]

What ever you feel right at.There is no set distance unless compeating at special events.Just get up and throw and enjoy :relax:

 

[LONEWOLF]

Try making your handles out of iron wood.After it has aged it can take a mighty beating.All mine are made from iron wood and we play handles all the time.May your hawk fly straight and true

 

[PaulN/KS]

Ya Lonewolf,that ironwood was what I was talking about when I wrote hophornbeam.Lots of places have a wood that they refer to as "ironwood" but since I lived in Northern Michigan I'll bet we mean the same stuff.I still have a cant hook handle that I made out of that wood.Good stuff.

 

[Riley/MN]

Ya Lonewolf,that ironwood was what I was talking about when I wrote hophornbeam.Lots of places have a wood that they refer to as "ironwood" but since I lived in Northern Michigan I'll bet we mean the same stuff.I still have a cant hook handle that I made out of that wood.Good stuff.

I bet it is the same-the ironwood here has a seedpod that looks like hops.

Do you fellows just whittle out your handles? I have always bought commercial handles. Lookin at the ends they look they've been turned, with the one center moved at one point? Does anyone know how they do this?

I have been thinking the same thing-ironwood handles should be just the ticket. :thumbsup:

 

[Jack Walker]

The mention of using harder wood is good, also the proper length for your hawk should be the distance between your inside of elbow to fingertip. :m2c:

 

[musketman]

The mention of using harder wood is good, also the proper length for your hawk should be the distance between your inside of elbow to fingertip. :m2c:

Couldn't you soak your handles, like you can a ramrod, to prevent them from breaking?

 

[Stumpkiller]

Hop Hornbeam is also called "muscle wood" around here (I was told because the twisted trunks look like a well muscled arm).

Here's a thought. Dogwood is used to make glutzes (a "glut" is the wedge used to split large logs lengthwize, pounded in with hickory mallets) because it will not split when dry. A dogwood handle might be just the ticket.

 

[LONEWOLF]

I have soaked my handles two ways#1 linseed oil and paint thinner 50--50.#2 straight anti freeze for about two days wipe dry add light coat oil.anti freese tightens the grain.

 

I don't throw tomahawks, but wouldn't adding a denser, heavier wood handle throw off the balance in it? Just a thought. If I did change out the handle, I would probably go with bois d'arc (osage orange).

Pare-

 

[freetrapper20]

While the distance on "hawk walks" varies from target to target, most of the voos I have been on over the last few years (Va., WVa., and Maryland) are using 12 feet as the distance for standard 5 throws with hawk and knife cutting cards. If the Hawk & Knife captain has big feet it might be off a bit.

 

[loishd]

Can someone tell me the "official" distance for the 'hawk throw? Thanks

As mentioned in earlier replys, a hawk and knife course can be set up in any manner. I myself have ran events at two National 'vous and a few smaller club type events. Following the NMLRA rule #9440 as a guideline. I have had participants throw standing, kneeling, and even sitting on a saddle. As for the blocks I have had mounted below the feet, above the head, even with the chest, and my favorite is a running target. The running target block is hooked to pulleys that are suspended from a cable, with the cable mount tight on an angle. The more angle the faster the block. Use an old ATV tire to stop the block at the low end.
As for distances of the throw, I have had minimum distance marked, toeing a stake or tree, or an open choice. I always try to keep safety in mind. I keep a thrower's feet firm on the ground no balancing acts. Most events will allow you to pull the knife or hawk before throwing the other to keep from damaging the weapons. I do not allow pacing off your first throw, but without being obvious count your steps when returning from the first throw. Also count the steps of the thrower before you to get an idea where to stand for the first throw. few hints !!!
As for practice I try to throw an hour or so a day at different height blocks and various distance, right and left handed, and sideways throwing. Change your grip up and down on the handle until you stick it regularly from that distance then change position and start all over until you can stick the weapons from any angle, distance, or standing position. It just takes alot of practice!
Hope this will help and be creative!