Too close? (Lockplate screw placement.

[swampyankee]

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I had hoped the images would be the other way round. (I also hope there not too big). The pictures pretty much say it all, the lockplate screw hole is kissing the bolster screw but the hole is pretty much in the center of the breach plug lug. In fact it may have been a tad too close to the rear if I had drilled further back? The gun is a Leman kit from TVM. Comments?

 

[gunmaker43]

Go with it, The lock bolt hole is only close to the countersunk portion of the pan screw, shouldn't be a problem. Tom

 

[swampyankee]

Well that's real good news,thanks Tom. :applause:

 

[gunmaker43]

Measure twice--cut once. It'll be O.K. if theres a mistake thats been made on a gun--I'm sure I've made it. That one for sure. PS measure 4 times cut once.....Tom

 

[jdkerstetter]

Count me amoung the completely confused as to what the problem, or percieved problem is here. The lock nail can go anywhere through the breech plug bolster or not at all, doesn't matter. Some are simply notched at the back to allow screw clearence.

Heck, you could grind the thing off all together after installation and the gun would still funtion fine if built correctly....though removal of the plug later may be problematic.

I do suggest that you make that hole in the bolster oversized or even slightly slotted though. It should be a clearence fit, i.e. not tight. If the hole is tight and the barrel sets back at all when the gun if fired the first time the screw can become pinched or even bent some. Hard to get it out that way.

Another thing that I'd like to point out....it appears that you filed a bevel on the tang but didn't on the bolster. I suggest that you taper the bolster the same. It will make barrel removal a little easier.

Good luck and Enjoy, J.D.

 

[Capt. Fred]

JD, I think he means the hole in the lockplate, not the one in the breech plug.

 

[George91946]

I don't see a problem, except, as noted, the hole in the bolster might be a bit larger. Lockplate screw is countersunk, so shaft of the screw should be positioned away from the screw shaft.

Lisle George

 

[jdkerstetter]

JD, I think he means the hole in the lockplate, not the one in the breech plug.

I suspect so too Fred, but it's just not clear. The OP makes a statement that if he moved the hole in the lock bolster any further back he might be too far back on the breech bolster.

To me, that's of no concern at all and if believed by him, his perception needs to be corrected going forward and building more guns. Enjoy, J.D.

 

[swampyankee]

Just to clear things up, my concern was the close proxcimity of the lock plate bolt hole to the bolster bolt. Just as Tom deciphered.
I'm serving my apprenticship under 3 books and a DVD, and the majority of the teachers say the lock plate bolt ought to transverse the lug. With that information I figured the bolt hole through the lug was in an optimal position. But if I corrected the hole in the bolster that would move the bolt hole in the lug rearward, which would, IMHO, move it out of line with the meaty part of the lug.
The DVD shows the builder running the touch hole through the bolster. On that I think I'll pass. A lot more measuring.

Since my last post I've tapped the hole and everything is hunky dory.
Or so it appears. :hmm:

 

[jdkerstetter]

Thanks for clearing things up.

Three books and a DVD!!! :shocked2: With all of that information I likely won't be of any help then. :idunno:

Enjoy your apprenticeship, :thumbsup: J.D.

 

[Black Hand]

I don't see a problem.

 

[swampyankee]

Yeah, you would think 3 books and a DVD would be enough, but I think my having to post this question here proves otherwise.

The older I get the more questions I have. I had far less 30 years ago.

I imagine I'll be back. :grin:

 

[54ball]

I assume since you have drilled for the lock bolt, that the tang,lock and barrel are all inlet to there final position.

The position of your lockbolt hole on the lock bolster is not ideal in my opinion but it will work fine. Ideally I would like it towards the back some more and a little higher. There was still plenty of plug left for that position. As J.D. said notching the breech plug would have been OK too.

What's done is done.

I hope you take this as constructive,but you are using the wrong tools on that breech plug. It has marked it up pretty bad. You are going to have to take it off several more times so I suggest that you get a wrench that properly fits. Here is what I use.


That big old slack jawed steam wrench does the job nicely and since it has no teeth it does not mar the plug more importantly it tightens down well for a secure fit and it has plenty of enough ass to pop it loose and tighten the plug down without overworking myself or slipping. The use of some brass shims to make a perfect fit helps a great deal.

A monkey wrench can work, as well as a special made breech plug wrench. Vice grips, most crescents and especially pipe wrenches will not work well if at all without marking up the plug.

 

[Birddog6]

Should not be an issue. Be sure you have the barrel in & pinned & the tang bolt in & snugged down Before... you drill & tap the lockbolt hole & drill the hole thru the breechplug lug.

Also after the lockbolt hole is drilled & tapped, take the barrel out of the stock & drill the hole in the breechplug lug Oversize, as to give clearance on the bolt that goes thru it. Failure to do this could cause recoil stress on the lock bolt & cause a crack in the rear of the lock inlet, as it will put recoil pressure on the lock bolt. At time you will see a crack in the lock inlet at the tail of a lock ? a good sign the barrel is recoiling against the lock bolt.

Anytime you put a rear lockbolt into a lock on a rifle & feel it is binding, it is important to see Why it is binding & remedy the issue. Stress on this bolt could be a problem waiting to happen.

Keith Lisle