Touching up a flint

[M. De Land]

I have used all the methods mentioned in the video and feel the pressure flaking he showed with the striker and pliers to be the most practical and effective.
I feel to much pressure is applied to the frizzen and cock and wonder how many frizzens have been broken off when trying to sharpen the whole width of the flint face simultaneously as the edge has been dulled and one cannot make nearly as good of a saw tooth edge that is the essence of knapping a flint sharp.
There is no comparison in how much better sparks are generated with both my flint locks when pressure flaking the edge. Mike D.

 

[Spikebuck]

As edge of flint passes edge of frizzen, flint will be trued and sharpened. No tools, minumum of fussing and flailing.

Zackly. :thumbsup:

I have to try this one. I've been just nibbling the edge lightly with a pair of pliers. But I like the "no tools" approach. Thanks!

 

[hanshi]

The edge next to the vent hole gets blasted by fouling, fire and pressure when the gun is fired. the effect is similar to sandblasting and it tends to wear and smooth that area of the flint.

 

[Wes/Tex]

It gets a bit confusing talking to our English brothers. We go hammer and frizzen , they go cock and hammer. Just when you think you got the hang of it, hammer and steel jumps up. It all works out.

I've used all the methods mentioned above along with the back edge of a knife blade to smacky-doodle the thing if required! :wink: :haha:

 

[Critter Getter]

Well thankya hanshi, that does make sense. I thought something just wasn't lined up quite right on my new Pedersoli. I wish I woulda thought of that! Greg

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

I would caution owners of the L&R locks that use the toggle link, the tumblers' arms that carry the link can and do break off from the repeated tapping of the flint while in the jaws of the cock.

I broke the tumbler on my 1700 series lock, the rifle was cradled and the flint supported accordingly with my index finger.

The up side was the fact that I never knew it broke until I tried to re-set the cock after the shot.

 

[bpd303]

The one thing not mentioned is when knapping the flint while still in the cock, make sure the gun is not loaded.

 

[pargent]

He is an Englishman living quite happily in the colony of New South Wales , so he uses the pc English terminology :thumbsup:

 

[Wes/Tex]

:thumbsup:

 

[Mongo40]

I've seen mentioned on the forum several times about using a large nail or piece of steel with a notch filed or ground in it, I"m not picturing really what they are talking about an would love it if someone could post a picture of said tool. Thanks

 

[M. De Land]

These are both pressure flakers and I use both designs in flint knapping arrow points. I use a copper point instead of steel as it is softer and will grip the edge better than steel. However a small notch cut in the point of a nail has the same effect of gripping the edge so a flake can be popped of creating a saw tooth edge.
A pressure flanker affords much more control over the size of chip and shaping of the flint edge than does a percussor as in small hammer of some type.
Using the frizzen to push back against does not work as well either as your trying to flake the entire edge all at once. It strains both the cock and frizzen pivot as well for only a very small amount of flake removal. It also unnecessarily wears the frizzen face.
Tapping the edge with a percussor is much harder to use in keeping the edge straight. Mike D.

 

[don hepler]

I have used a diamond file to touch up. You use less of the flint, and it will make repairs, if not broken or too far gone. Wear a dust mask, that dust might be a little ruff on the lungs.

 

[good ole boy]

Which type of flints are the hardest to knapp and which are the easiest?

 

[Jax]

In a pinch, just use your knife blade to touch up the edge by tapping lightly....works great in the field.

 

[don hepler]

I really don't know which are the easiest to knapp, because I've only used two kinds, the black English, and the man made cut flints. I got a lot of flints, with the purchase of a used rifle, and the rest I bought at the builders fair. I prefer the English flints, but have good results with the cut flints. The cut flints, are easy to file, with a diamond file, but they are very expensive. When I hunt, I use a new English flint, and replace it, if I have to take a shot. In a hunting situation, I want a razor sharp flint. I do like to dry fire it once or twice, to see how it's sparking. I've never had a FTF in a hunting situation. Had a few misses.....a few flinches..... but the rifle did it's part.

 

[azmntman]

< never had a legitimate miss, was always the rifles fault :haha: