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TOW- Antique formula Oil Finish

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Kentuckywindage

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Anyone using tracks, original oil finish? I just had a bottle come in today and am stripping my kentucky down. I tested a small part of the stock and it really looks like it does a good job and wont get crappy like tru-oil.
 
Curious, been using allot of Tru-Oil over a few years. What did you find crappy? I know allot of people on other type of gun sites use it with good results as well.
 
im tired of the cheap plastic feel, the high gloss and its tough to repair a bruse that pops up. Just isnt for me anymore.

also that should be OOF. some reason i can not edit the first post :hmm:

Original Oil Finish.
 
I've had good succes w/ tru-oil. You can make it glossy, soft, or anything in between. It holds up better than tung oil too.
By the way, I'll bet there are few that know where Bon Carbo is. I used to live at Weston. :grin:
 
By "OOF" you are talking about Original Oil Finish?

I'll try to fix your Topics title.
The reason you couldn't correct it is because there is a 10 or 15 minute time limit on the length of time the Forums computer will let you change things.

To answer your question, no I haven't used it. I've been using the "crappy" stuff. :)

For those interested, here's the TOTW link to their Antique Formula Original Oil Finish.
Antique Formula Original Oil Finish
 
thanks zonie!

Zonie you also helped me out with my cva mountain rifle refinish job. I have a question on this beech stock on my traditions. I bought birchwood casey rusty walnut * awesome color and high lights!* and the finish says i should whisker the stock with 0000 steel wool. I did this and then applied the stain. As usual even though i went lightly, it took the stain down in areas. Any ideas on what to do?
 
already tested this stuff out on the rifle and im really liking it! It says its a long process over a couple days of hand rubbing and thats fine with me. I wanted something different and it builds up fairly quick and drys fast.
 
Every time I hear of someone NOT liking Tru-oil as a stock finish, it becomes very apparent after a brief discussion of their finishing technique that they are putting the oil on too thick! And, they are NOT stretching the oil finish, or rubbing the wet oil into the wood with the butt of their hands.

I made all those mistakes years ago using Linspeed Oil, another finish product. I change to Tru-oil because the latter product is thinner, and stretches easier. The layers of finish you can put down using it are very thin, WHEN APPLIED CORRECTLY. I had to show my own brother how to correctly finish a stock before he understood why he was getting indifferent results.

There are any number of good oil finishes to be used out there, that yield good results, IF YOU APPLY THEM TO THE STOCK CORRECTLY. I find way too many people are in too much of a rush to get a gun done, rather than taking the time, and doing it right.

With Tru-oil, I can put another coat on every 8-10 hours, and finish a stock with 7-8 coats in 3 days or less. It all depends when I put on that first coat, and whether I want to get up in the middle of the night to put on a third coat!

I prefer using Tru-oil to Tung Oil because I find it much easier to repair scratches to a Tru-oil finish, than those in a Tung Oil finish.

Is there some kind of Obsessive abhorrence to getting one's hands dirty these days? I can't think of any other reason why its so hard to get people to hand rub finishes as they are applied.
 
i do rub the tru-oil in by hand. I actually mix in a little boiled linseed oil so i have more time to work with it. My last stock came out really nice but i dont like the plastic feel. Plus i want a dull finish and everytime i dry to dull the tru-oil, it goes right down to the stain and messed it up.

So i take it that no one has ever used antique formula oil finish?
 
So what the heck's in this fantastic "Antique Oil"?

Isn't True Oil linseed based?
 
OOF is linseed oil based, it has more driers in it to speed up the process, it does take longer though to build up and allows you do get the finish that you want.
 
Ah! Try this technique to get that dull matte finish. Let the oil finish set up after applying it and stretching it. No more than about 10 minutes at room temperatures. Then, gently and carefully drag a clean finger or two across the finish to break the surface, and remove the high gloss.

If you want the finish to be even more " matte", use rottenstone- available at paint stores, and art shops-- to rub down the finish to the desired tone. This is a famous old abrasive, made from brick dust, that has been used for centuries to polish the fine surfaces of furniture, and rifle stocks. To use it, dip a clean tack cloth in oil, lightly, and then dip the oiled cloth into the rottenstone. The oil helps to let the abrasive slide over the finish without digging into it too much. Be gentle. It doesn't take much rubbing to dull the finish.
 
I can add another that I found to be very good and durable. FORMBY'S ANTIQUE OIL FINISH. Comes in a red can. Linseed based. Very thin. Soaks in deep. Wipe it on, no need to stretch it, wipe it off. 2 or 3 coats on maple, and it's pretty much done. Does not build up in carving unless you don't wipe off the excess soon enough. BUT, the best that I prefer for a long gun is the Jim Chambers finish over permalyn sealer. Or, just permalyn sealer for a real satin look.
 
This stuff soaks right in right away. Ive never had a anything soak up so fast. I think i have 4 coats on my test area before it started to take some shine to it. Cant wait to try this stuff out on the real deal.
 
If you removed some of the stain by using the steel wool (and I have no doubt that you did) just reapply the stain to the damaged area and use a course rag to wipe the area to get it to blend with the existing stain.

This suggestion of course is based on the idea that you have not applied any oils to the wood yet.

If you have started applying oils, IMO it is too late to try to restain the light areas.

After staining and before applying the finishing oils I do not recommend using steel wool on a stock.
The lightening of areas of stain is one reason I don't like steel wool at that time.
Another reason is that steel wool leaves tiny fragments of it imbedded into the wood.
If for any reason you decide to add another coat of stain and the stain contains any water at all these little fragments will rust causing freckles or spots all over the place.
 
I guess everybody has their own preferences and here's mine. Two heavy soak-in coats of LMF sealer w/ a wipe off after both coats.Both these coats are continuously applied until there's no longer any absorption. Eight hours of drying time, a brisk rub down w/ 0000 stl wool to remove any surface accumulation and a good wipe. Then 2 very light coats of Wahkon Bay Trucoat are rubbed in by hand w/ a 6 hr drying time between coats and a very dull. non-built up finish is achieved which requires a lot of rubbing w/ a fluffy towel to bring out any shine at all.....Fred
 

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