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So the downside is it doesn’t spark well at all.

Call Jane, get clearance to send the frizzen back to Jess. He will make it work better. TRS expects you to send the frizzen for case hardening and heat treatment.
 
So in thinking the frizzen was no good, after tempering, lightly grinding off the surface layer, changing flints, changing flint angle, insuring the geometry was ok, balancing the main to frizzen springs, etc, etc, etc, I committed to learning how to re-sole a frizzen. Figured I can’t make it not spark any less than it already isn’t. I’ve been intrigued on how to do this, whether brazing on or riveting on a new sole. So I ordered up some high carbon content 1095 on Amazon which sparked infinitely better than the frizzen did on the grinding wheel. Looked promising so I chose to rivet it to the dead frizzen. Here’s some pics of the process. Down side is it STILL WILL NOT SPARK after hardening and tempering it. So I’m at a loss and currently have a beautiful static display! But hey, it was only $199. With the money saved I guess I have a few options: replace the frizzen, buy a new Chambers square flange lock and cut to fit the mortise or find a quality replacement lock to fit or one that’s slightly oversized the mortise and be done with this frustration! Although I did learn a new skill and that’s worth the price of admission!

old frizzen
IMG_6378.jpeg


1095 “Sole”

IMG_6379.jpeg
Grind to @ .030 to .040” thickness and bend to shape.

IMG_6381.jpeg
 
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Clamped, marked, drilled (5) 5/64” holes. Pin holes as you drill so they remain aligned. Note: Anneal the frizzen first to soften it so you can drill it. Center punched and drilled holes in the flat frizzen face first. Then used them as guides to drill through the sole.

IMG_6386.jpeg


Countersink all holes so rivets will swag out and really grip and deburr so sole will lay flat.

IMG_6395.jpeg

IMG_6394.jpeg
 
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SUCCESS! Skirting a file across the face it still seemed a little soft, so I heated the frizzen face up again until bright cherry red this time then water quenched. I installed it back on the pistol and now it has great spark! I just needed to step away from it for a while and think things through and recheck my work. This should do quite nicely! Can’t wait to fire it!!!

72AA320D-66FD-4735-BA3A-E2B45718D12F.jpeg
 
FWIW, the Rifle Shoppe uses 6150 spring steel for their frizzens. It can't be tempered. It has to be case hardened. I have tried both that and re-soling it. The case hardening will wear off after a while. The re-sole is good for the life of the frizzen.
 
It makes smoke! Got a chance to test it today at my son in laws. First shot was 1/2 charge 15gr 3F and a fiber wad. Second was 30gr and fiber wad, third was 30gr and .600 ball with .010 patch. Worked fine, no issues. The sights appear to be decently aligned at least windage wise. Only got to shoot it 4-5 times but overall a great success and very satisfying!!!

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