longcruise
70 Cal.
Here is a good option as well. He has Rice barrels in stock or can get it from rice. Very handy if you order a swamped inlet. Cuts way down on the shipping costs.
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TOW or Pecatonica River Kit
- Thread starter pdt1793db
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I was planning on going with the rice barrel. But am torn on how fancy to get the maple for the stock. I do think its a good idea to research what parts are correct for the style and time period of the rifle. Which before you mentioned that I hadnt thought of doing. But I'm still torn on how fancy of wood is appropriate for a first rifle.
Pete Gaimari
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If you want it correct. Make sure you research if the gun you're building came originally with fancy wood. Even if it was an option back then.
I've read about some guns that always had straight grain wood. I'm not sure if it was for strength, or to keep the cost down.
I've read about some guns that always had straight grain wood. I'm not sure if it was for strength, or to keep the cost down.
IMHO, just pick one & build it. Don't worry about it being PC, HC, or anything else, learn to build one first & get to shooting it. Then if ya want to get all PC & HC, you can work on that as that most likely will make it a much harder build. Lots of times when you go for HC/PC the parts are not avail & you have to make them, = allot more work & very trying at times to say the least.
Pick one YOU like, get some decent wood & go for it. You can think this thing to death & I guarantee ya no matter what you do, you will find things you would have done differently later on.
I suggest ya go with a reputable dealer, such as Chambers, or Dunlap, or Pecatonica. All three have decent stocks & parts sets & back up what they sell. Chambers will be the most PC/HC, but will cost more.
Keith Lisle
Pick one YOU like, get some decent wood & go for it. You can think this thing to death & I guarantee ya no matter what you do, you will find things you would have done differently later on.
I suggest ya go with a reputable dealer, such as Chambers, or Dunlap, or Pecatonica. All three have decent stocks & parts sets & back up what they sell. Chambers will be the most PC/HC, but will cost more.
Keith Lisle
Pete Gaimari
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Thinking it to death is part of the hobby.
Maybe the best part for me.
I'm into details.
Maybe the best part for me.
I'm into details.
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i built a .40 calibre using one of Dick Greensides' (Pecatonica) stocks, and i'd go back to him in a short second if i were to do another precarve... a great guy- fantastic value for the money, and wonderful service.
i haven't built one of Jim Chambers' kits (although i'd like to)
i would advise you to go with a precarved stock from Pecatonica, and to get the best wood you can (splurge here- it's for a good cause).
additionally, get a swamped barrel if you can afford it- i was initially skeptical, but now i'm hooked- swamped barrels rule!
there- free advice, and no doubt worth very penny!
i haven't built one of Jim Chambers' kits (although i'd like to)
i would advise you to go with a precarved stock from Pecatonica, and to get the best wood you can (splurge here- it's for a good cause).
additionally, get a swamped barrel if you can afford it- i was initially skeptical, but now i'm hooked- swamped barrels rule!
there- free advice, and no doubt worth very penny!
Pete Gaimari
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Birddog6 said:
Yes, I can. I can also start unprepared and regret it.
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I guess I'm going to go agains the grain here (pun intended) but since this is your first build, I would not go hog wild on spending the extra money for a premium stock. Curly maple can be tricky to work with even with most of the work done already on a pre-carved stock. I'd ask for a solid piece of sugar maple and go from there. You can get a little fancier wood as you progress in your gun building. In case nobody has mentioned it this is highly addictive and will lead to countless hours on the work bench. Good luck and have fun.
I have several thoughts about the grade of curly maple one should think of buying.
First, if the original guns used low grade wood then that might be the best option.
I'm thinking of Leman and his hand painted stripes on his rifles. If someone is building a copy of a Leman they should get the lowest grade of maple that is available from the stockmaker.
Second: I decided to build a Pennsylvania "Boys Rifle" using a shortened (38") .36 caliber barrel and a small flintlock. I figured a "boys rifle" probably wouldn't have a fancy high grade stock on it so I bought a Pecatonica River #2.
Although the PR #2 stocks have a fair amount of stripes and the gun looks pretty good I kicked myself in the butt many times for not spending a bit more and buying a #3 stock.
The really high grade stocks like PR #4 and higher are beautiful however I cannot recommend using one for a persons first or even second rifle.
The reasons are several: They cost a LOT of money.
A first time builder will make a lot of mistakes and the curl of the wood makes it more difficult to work with which can cause even more blunders.
A few first time builders will give up before the gun is finished. It is a lot easier on the conscience to have a $170 piece of unfinished wood sitting in the corner than it is to have a $250 piece of wood sitting there plus the less expensive unfinished stock will give the "significant other" less to grip about.
If I was going to recommend a PR grade to choose it would be their #3.
These have quite a bit of curl but there may be a few areas that are plain. That's why they weren't judged to be a #4.
IMO, they are the best quality for the money.
First, if the original guns used low grade wood then that might be the best option.
I'm thinking of Leman and his hand painted stripes on his rifles. If someone is building a copy of a Leman they should get the lowest grade of maple that is available from the stockmaker.
Second: I decided to build a Pennsylvania "Boys Rifle" using a shortened (38") .36 caliber barrel and a small flintlock. I figured a "boys rifle" probably wouldn't have a fancy high grade stock on it so I bought a Pecatonica River #2.
Although the PR #2 stocks have a fair amount of stripes and the gun looks pretty good I kicked myself in the butt many times for not spending a bit more and buying a #3 stock.
The really high grade stocks like PR #4 and higher are beautiful however I cannot recommend using one for a persons first or even second rifle.
The reasons are several: They cost a LOT of money.
A first time builder will make a lot of mistakes and the curl of the wood makes it more difficult to work with which can cause even more blunders.
A few first time builders will give up before the gun is finished. It is a lot easier on the conscience to have a $170 piece of unfinished wood sitting in the corner than it is to have a $250 piece of wood sitting there plus the less expensive unfinished stock will give the "significant other" less to grip about.
If I was going to recommend a PR grade to choose it would be their #3.
These have quite a bit of curl but there may be a few areas that are plain. That's why they weren't judged to be a #4.
IMO, they are the best quality for the money.
Figured woods, though beautiful, can really be frustrating to inexperienced woodworkers. Especially when using hand tools. Then when you get one full of stress it really begins to get "fun".
I had a piece of zebrawood once that just about gave me a stroke.
I had a piece of zebrawood once that just about gave me a stroke.
I do think the #3 would be the best I didnt want the fanciest wood but I did want something that make a beautiful stock but not so fancy that I couldnt really use it. I plan on building this in a 54 caliber, with iron furniture, and not a ton of stock carving or engraving. This first rifle I plan to just enjoy as a hunting gun I plan to have and use for a long time.
If you search back a little bit under my username you will see some photos I posted of a rifle I finished recently (within the past 2 months). This began as a Pecatonica pre-carve in CM3 grade. That may give you a rough idea what you'd be getting in that grade of wood with regard to figure.
One thing I would ask for is a piece of sugar maple, regardless of which grade. The piece of wood I received wasn't the hardest maple, probably Red Maple and on the soft end of such. I could ever so slightly press my thumbnail into it and leave a mark.
In the end I didn't have much issue with the whiskering and finishing which would arise when generally using silver maple (soft).
The piece of maple I have on the bench now is some seriously hard stuff and I requested such.
One thing I would ask for is a piece of sugar maple, regardless of which grade. The piece of wood I received wasn't the hardest maple, probably Red Maple and on the soft end of such. I could ever so slightly press my thumbnail into it and leave a mark.
In the end I didn't have much issue with the whiskering and finishing which would arise when generally using silver maple (soft).
The piece of maple I have on the bench now is some seriously hard stuff and I requested such.
hoochiepapa
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The first kit I built was from PR and they sent me a pre-carve that had good figure, but it had dark streaks through it. This goes against their guarantee. I called about it, and they said they would make it up to me on my next order. I made the mistake of telling them that I was a novice, so I think they sent me stuff that noone else would accept. The side plate did not fit the lock, (the holes did not line up, I had to make one). I had a terrible time fitting the swamped barrel, and a friend suggested I take it to his machine shop, and sure enough, the outside flats had a slight twist. So I have not been back. This is just my personal history with them, you make your mind up by listening to everybody. :shake:
Pete Gaimari
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Your experience is my worse fear.
Time to rethink again.
This is why I don't jump into things.
Time to rethink again.
This is why I don't jump into things.
longcruise
70 Cal.
Hey Mike, we are in the same neighborhood. I'm in Arvada.
Your points are well taken. I ordered a blank with barrel channel and ramrod hole from a different supplier and also mentioned my newness. I asked for a quarter sawn and was told that they just are not available.
Anyway, it's good wood but I'm still confused. :haha:
I won't order a precarve with the lock or side plates inletted. Just makes aligning everything more difficult. Am not a good inletter at all but somehow I git r done. :haha:
Your points are well taken. I ordered a blank with barrel channel and ramrod hole from a different supplier and also mentioned my newness. I asked for a quarter sawn and was told that they just are not available.
Anyway, it's good wood but I'm still confused. :haha: I won't order a precarve with the lock or side plates inletted. Just makes aligning everything more difficult. Am not a good inletter at all but somehow I git r done. :haha:
Leaving a barrel out of a channel for an extended period can result in a twisted fore stock. The barrel should have fit, albeit tightly, as delivered. The wood can be manipulated to fit properly and twist reduced by various methods well outlined here and elsewhere. One should always leave the barrel in the stock, if at all possible, when not working on the project.
I believe mineral streaks are clearly stated as not being a defect on PR's website.
I believe mineral streaks are clearly stated as not being a defect on PR's website.
hoochiepapa
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Marmotslayer, where do yoou shoot? I'm looking for a formal place to shoot. Boulder rifle club has a range about 10 minutes from here, but I'm not sure how a flint would be accepted. If I go to a range where rock locks are already in use, it might be better.
Rootsy, you are right, but I still didn't like the way I was treated. The best way to find a supplier is trial and error. The only thing you would be out is return shipping. I now am making from scratch as much as possible.
The barrel fit when it was delivered, and please remember I am a novice. I didn't know to look if there was any twist to anything. This was a precarve, and the stock was pretty thin from the lock area forward, so it would take on the twist of the barrel. PR sells many kits and I'm sure that most aren't like mine.
Rootsy, you are right, but I still didn't like the way I was treated. The best way to find a supplier is trial and error. The only thing you would be out is return shipping. I now am making from scratch as much as possible.
The barrel fit when it was delivered, and please remember I am a novice. I didn't know to look if there was any twist to anything. This was a precarve, and the stock was pretty thin from the lock area forward, so it would take on the twist of the barrel. PR sells many kits and I'm sure that most aren't like mine.
