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Tower Pistol Load Recommendations?

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I picked up this Tower Pistol cheap at the Log Cabin shop this weekend and thought it would be fun to play with. The frizzen needs hardened, which I understand was true for most of these. I’m going to try a .662 ball based on the bore diameter. Does the typical rule of thumb (i.e. half the ball diameter) apply for the powder charge here? Am I in good shape to to try 30-35 grains?

Since it’s a smoothbore, I thought it would be fun to try some shot as well. I’ve never shot a smoothbore muzzleloader before and would appreciate thoughts on the size of shot, how many ounces to use and the powder charge for that as well if anyone has some insight.

ThanksI’m advance! I’ve just been a member a short time, but I’ve really enjoyed following along and learning from everyone’s posts!

Jake
144D9A14-F630-4B59-B7AC-BDC2EFCC971F.jpeg
 
Because of the short barrel, there is little use in loading more than 30 to 40 grains of powder unless you like lots of smoke.

With respect to ranges that a shot charge would be used, I would keep to the 30 to 40 grains (volume) of powder and using fine shot (7 1/2) at about 60 grains volume. You will need an over powder card, probably two or three over shot cards would work well, then the shot to be held in place with an over shot card. Up close rabbits and snakes, beware!
 
Because of the short barrel, there is little use in loading more than 30 to 40 grains of powder unless you like lots of smoke.

With respect to ranges that a shot charge would be used, I would keep to the 30 to 40 grains (volume) of powder and using fine shot (7 1/2) at about 60 grains volume. You will need an over powder card, probably two or three over shot cards would work well, then the shot to be held in place with an over shot card. Up close rabbits and snakes, beware!

Thanks Grenadier, that’s helpful! In regards to the type of lead shot, does it matter if it is “chilled” lead shot or “magnum” lead shot, so long as it is indeed lead shot as opposed to steel?
 
30-40 grains 2f is the load range. My Brother had one of those back in the seventies and never had any issues with it firing. I shot it once at a piece of plywood leaned up against a boulder. The ball trampolined off that plywood and went whizzing past my head a few inches away! Decided to shoot at cans after that.
 
I've had two of those. None of the interior parts had been hardened and one had been left on full **** for 20 years. After massive work on the lock, replacing all the springs, guts and frizzen with Siler parts I did get one to go off reliably. Load it with 15 grains of 2F and buckshot and shoot close up. Targets at 12 yards may not show a hit.
 
I've had two of those. None of the interior parts had been hardened and one had been left on full **** for 20 years. After massive work on the lock, replacing all the springs, guts and frizzen with Siler parts I did get one to go off reliably. Load it with 15 grains of 2F and buckshot and shoot close up. Targets at 12 yards may not show a hit.

Thanks! I got it as a project as much as anything. I do a bit of blacksmithing and now that the muzzleloader bug has bit me, I have aspirations of making a gun someday. I figure this is an inexpensive way to learn more about how the pieces work, working on heat treating some of the components, etc. For the price I paid, I won’t feel too bad if the learning curve takes a wrong turn!
 
I’d tie it to a small tree or something and fire it by remote control first. These guns were not known to be high quality, better safe than sorry
 
The barrels were OK, everything else was junk. FWIW. I scrapped all the springs, tumbler, sear and frizzen. Cleaned up the inside of the lockplate and drilled new holes and threaded them to take Siler parts. It worked and I wound up selling it to a PYRATE reenactor who was never going to shoot it. Bought it for $10 and sold it for $50.
 
using fine shot (7 1/2) at about 60 grains volume.
I’m working this out for the first since I’m new to smoothbores. It looks like 60 grains by volume of shot is about 7/8 of an ounce. Am I in the ballpark? That said, for applications like this, do folks just measure shot by volume using a powder measure just as they do the powder for the charge?
 
I picked up this Tower Pistol cheap at the Log Cabin shop this weekend and thought it would be fun to play with. The frizzen needs hardened, which I understand was true for most of these. I’m going to try a .662 ball based on the bore diameter. Does the typical rule of thumb (i.e. half the ball diameter) apply for the powder charge here? Am I in good shape to to try 30-35 grains?

Since it’s a smoothbore, I thought it would be fun to try some shot as well. I’ve never shot a smoothbore muzzleloader before and would appreciate thoughts on the size of shot, how many ounces to use and the powder charge for that as well if anyone has some insight.

ThanksI’m advance! I’ve just been a member a short time, but I’ve really enjoyed following along and learning from everyone’s posts!

JakeView attachment 46178
I have 6 of them, don't ask me why, they were cheep I guess? I load them with 30 GRS. of 2FG. BP. and put a wad of bees / hornets nest over the powder then a RB. or BUCK SHOT and another wad of nesting, too keep the ball from rolling out of the barrel, and it is a blast to shoot, PUN INTENDED! mine, 5 of them were made in JAPAN and one made in KOREA, who would ever think? any one have one of them MADE IN KOREA?
 
Agree with above. 30-40 grains of FFG in these big, smooth bore pistols is about right. Start at 7 yards. Not much good after 15 yards. But they are fun to shoot.

Rick
 
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