Got one yesterday and started on it. Remembering cuss words I haven't used in years! Frustrating to say the least but stuck with it! Got it out to the truck and THEN read PART of the instructions, went back in and bought a stock stain kit. Got home and read REST of instructions, will go back and buy the Bluing kit. When said and done will save $36 over buying one already assembled! But even as frustrated as I was, it has been fun, SO FAR! AND I DID IT MY WAY!
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Traditions Hawken Kit
- Thread starter coxral
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Lonegun1894
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Forget the $36, because yours will be better fitted and finished than factory, so worth more. Just enjoy it and make it yours.
ohio ramrod
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Kits are a learning experience. Many people end up with guns far better than "production" guns, some end up with a piece of junk from good parts. Building a kit is a personal experience and often leads to a custom build. The main problem with many kits is they limit your ability to modify to fit the shooter. You can always remove more wood from a stock, but putting wood on just doesn't work well! I know many people who buy kits or even completed factory guns (often used). And restock the parts to get a gun that truely fits them.Or turn a half stock into a full stock as many have done with TC hawkens.:idunno: :idunno:
I was able to build a decent gun at 10-12 years old. Was a traditions KY .45 kit. Bet I could do better today! BUT for $36.00 I'd get the prebuilt in a cheap version like traditions :idunno:
Glad to hear you got yourself a muzzleloader to build.
You've probably already done what I'm going to suggest that you not do but if you haven't, don't buy the oil base finish with the "stain" already in it.
If you do, the stock will not be anything near what it would be if you bought a water or alcohol base stain.
The all in one stuff is more like a poor quality paint.
It doesn't cover well and you can't make it look better by applying more coats.
A real stain like a water based or alcohol based stain allows you to apply many coats to bring out the color you want.
They also don't cover up the grain of the wood so anything that is in the wood grain will still show thru when your finished.
After staining the wood, then apply a good finishing oil.
Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil is one of the best.
Tung oil works pretty well and Linseed oil will do if that's all you have.
The problem with linseed oil is it takes forever to dry and it will show spots if it gets drops of water on it. (Waxing the dried stock can help to prevent the spotting).
If you ever get curious about the advanced kits like Track of the Wolf or Pecatonica River sells, they are just a box of rough parts.
They can easily take over 100 hours of work to put together. :shocked2:
You've probably already done what I'm going to suggest that you not do but if you haven't, don't buy the oil base finish with the "stain" already in it.
If you do, the stock will not be anything near what it would be if you bought a water or alcohol base stain.
The all in one stuff is more like a poor quality paint.
It doesn't cover well and you can't make it look better by applying more coats.
A real stain like a water based or alcohol based stain allows you to apply many coats to bring out the color you want.
They also don't cover up the grain of the wood so anything that is in the wood grain will still show thru when your finished.
After staining the wood, then apply a good finishing oil.
Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil is one of the best.
Tung oil works pretty well and Linseed oil will do if that's all you have.
The problem with linseed oil is it takes forever to dry and it will show spots if it gets drops of water on it. (Waxing the dried stock can help to prevent the spotting).
If you ever get curious about the advanced kits like Track of the Wolf or Pecatonica River sells, they are just a box of rough parts.
They can easily take over 100 hours of work to put together. :shocked2:
Some of the most beautiful rifles I have seen were kit builds. {but then again...some of the worst guns I have seen were kit guns, all up to the skill of the builder}
Hope ya sanded all the wood real good before ya put the stain on,, helps them metal part fit better.
Personally... I've built a few of these kits, eight to be exact. I'll snag one if I can get them for a very, very good deal. That said, they require allot of attention to detail and fitting of parts.
IMO a true kit from one of the many makers are in ways easier to build due to a higher level of quality in parts and the precarved stocks. Let this be your second build as you won't look back on a traditions!
Traditions stocks are a higher end skid wood... chips, cracks and splinters if your not careful when trying to precisely inlay parts correctly. If your tools are not sharp, you'll find out soon enough.
Overall I really love their barrels (only thing useful) they are indeed accurate. Take your time, have patience and you will be rewarded with a rifle that will go boom.
IMO a true kit from one of the many makers are in ways easier to build due to a higher level of quality in parts and the precarved stocks. Let this be your second build as you won't look back on a traditions!
Traditions stocks are a higher end skid wood... chips, cracks and splinters if your not careful when trying to precisely inlay parts correctly. If your tools are not sharp, you'll find out soon enough.
Overall I really love their barrels (only thing useful) they are indeed accurate. Take your time, have patience and you will be rewarded with a rifle that will go boom.
frogwalking
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t looks good. You did well.
StewartLeach
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Coxral, be a bit careful when using olive oil as a patch lubricant. Olive oil has a low ignition temperature, and you can wind up with a smoldering patch after firing.
I learned this by setting fire to the dry grass at the Boulder Rifle Club range.........
Peanut oil has a much higher ignition temp, and works well.
Enjoy your new rifle.
White Fox
I learned this by setting fire to the dry grass at the Boulder Rifle Club range.........
Peanut oil has a much higher ignition temp, and works well.
Enjoy your new rifle.
White Fox
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Don't forget to thoroughly clean all the packing and machine oil out of the barrel before you shoot it....
Hi Coxral
That's a good looking gun!
Lemme tell a story:
20 years ago I bought a Cobra replica kit car and built it.I have had a tremendous amount of enjoyment from this car. I have also taken a lot of disparaging comments from snobs about it not being a"real" Cobra. Although not an original, million dollar Cobra, my car is a hoot to drive and gives me great satisfaction knowing I built it.
I have built several muzzleloader kits and have bought several, knowing they were kits and I feel the same way about these guns; they look, feel and shoot as good as my factory built muzzleloaders.
These guns may not have the cache of a custom built, $2000.00 muzzleloader, but they give the same satisfying, smoke billowing, boom, lead splat !
Enjoy that beaut and shoot it!
That's a good looking gun!
Lemme tell a story:
20 years ago I bought a Cobra replica kit car and built it.I have had a tremendous amount of enjoyment from this car. I have also taken a lot of disparaging comments from snobs about it not being a"real" Cobra. Although not an original, million dollar Cobra, my car is a hoot to drive and gives me great satisfaction knowing I built it.
I have built several muzzleloader kits and have bought several, knowing they were kits and I feel the same way about these guns; they look, feel and shoot as good as my factory built muzzleloaders.
These guns may not have the cache of a custom built, $2000.00 muzzleloader, but they give the same satisfying, smoke billowing, boom, lead splat !
Enjoy that beaut and shoot it!
FrontierMuzzleloading
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Great rifles. You have the older style stock like my flintlock. They beefed up the wrist and lock panel this year.
My woodsman @ 100 yards yesterday with 70gr pyrodex p, .018 pillow tick and buckskinners blend patch lube. No swabbing.
Every 3rd shot was throwing either left or right. Turns out it was the 90* + heat overheating the barrel which didnt mix well. I waited an hour with the rifle in the shade and then loaded up another charge and took the shot.
You're on the right path as far as ball size and patch thickness goes. Your lube just sucks and would be best with a damp swab between each shot.
Bore size, you are looking at around .499" land to land and a grove depth total of around .503"
My woodsman @ 100 yards yesterday with 70gr pyrodex p, .018 pillow tick and buckskinners blend patch lube. No swabbing.
Every 3rd shot was throwing either left or right. Turns out it was the 90* + heat overheating the barrel which didnt mix well. I waited an hour with the rifle in the shade and then loaded up another charge and took the shot.
You're on the right path as far as ball size and patch thickness goes. Your lube just sucks and would be best with a damp swab between each shot.
Bore size, you are looking at around .499" land to land and a grove depth total of around .503"
frogwalking
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Skill, care, patience and determination. I tell my wife after working much of the day on a small part; "I did not make much progress, but I did not irredeemably ruin anything." If one continues that for long enough, the result ain't bad. I have no talent, little skill, but lots of patience and determination.
FML, do you hunt with the Buckskinners lube? Read an ad for it and says strictly for target shooting? What would be the difference? If so, what lube to hunt with? I understand it's a personal preference thing too! Appreciate all info!
FrontierMuzzleloading
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no, its a water based lube to wipe fouling away easily. It won't keep the patch moist all day.
Theres lots of lubes, I prefer thin lube that doesnt harden or run easily.
Theres lots of lubes, I prefer thin lube that doesnt harden or run easily.
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