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Traditions Kentucky Flintlock help

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When I clean my traditions Kentucky I use a long strip of cloth through a slotted cleaning rod end twisted together ahead of the rod saturated with water. Push down the bore to the breech with the lock facing newspaper on the floor I repeat til the water comes out the vent clear then repeat with dry strips wipe the lock with wet cloth and dry with hair dryer til breech is warm and I use fluid film lanolin to protect the metal. it does not wet powder charges if not completely wiped out before you load. I always swab the barrel breech with a dry strip patch before loading.
LBL
I have actually heard of a similar technique, but they will submerge the barrel flash hole in a bucket of soapy water and pretty much use the rod as a hydraulic pump, pumping water into and out of the flash hole. I will give your technique a try, sounds much less messy 😉

Thank you for the info!

Best

Ryan
 
Graf's and son has free shipping and hazmat,I believe you have to order over $150.00 for free shipping,I also think it ends tomorrow, might be worth checking into.
For sure, I will check the site out, thank you for the info!

Best

Ryan
 
@Ryanlpuckett where do you live? Is there a bp shop by you? I’d try that before ordering thru the mail it whatever. I’m sure someone here k knows a shop.

And as they say, pyrodex won’t work on a flint. Really, none of the other powders do either.

As to shooting it out, the Black Powder Maniac has a lot of great videos to check out.
 
On a Traditions Kentucky I think your barrel is pinned to the stock or connected by screws. If that is the case it is a pain to pull the barrel each time. On my Traditions Shenandoah I pull the lock but leave the lock screws in the stock and use masking tape on the off side to hold them so they don’t fall out. I do this especially for the front screw as it holds the ramrod keeper spring in place and it is a pain to get back in place. Your Kentucky may be different.

I put a toothpick or sharpened wood match snuggly in the touch hole and pour hot water with a drop or two of dish soap down the barrel and stand the gun upright, let is soak for a minute or two and then cover the muzzle with my thumb and slosh the water back and forth several times and pour it out. Then do the same with plain rinse water and finish your cleaning. I hold a towel or rag around the muzzle while pouring in the water to minimize water getting in the barrel channel. Then I use my usual dry patches etc. to finish cleaning.

I may pull the barrel once a year to check on the underside.

On rifles with a hooked breech and wedges I always pull the barrel.
 
@Ryanlpuckett where do you live? Is there a bp shop by you? I’d try that before ordering thru the mail it whatever. I’m sure someone here k knows a shop.

And as they say, pyrodex won’t work on a flint. Really, none of the other powders do either.

As to shooting it out, the Black Powder Maniac has a lot of great videos to check out.
I am in Redbluff, CA... we pretty much are limited to the big box stores, not many mom pop retailers. I will try to call around, because I find that most online vendors require a minimum order. One site was pushing 25lbs, believe me you, that would be great, but i can't afford that lol.. so I will see what the local offerings are,, may have to drive,, but would be worth it in the end..

Thank you again

Best

Ryan
 
On a Traditions Kentucky I think your barrel is pinned to the stock or connected by screws. If that is the case it is a pain to pull the barrel each time. On my Traditions Shenandoah I pull the lock but leave the lock screws in the stock and use masking tape on the off side to hold them so they don’t fall out. I do this especially for the front screw as it holds the ramrod keeper spring in place and it is a pain to get back in place. Your Kentucky may be different.

I put a toothpick or sharpened wood match snuggly in the touch hole and pour hot water with a drop or two of dish soap down the barrel and stand the gun upright, let is soak for a minute or two and then cover the muzzle with my thumb and slosh the water back and forth several times and pour it out. Then do the same with plain rinse water and finish your cleaning. I hold a towel or rag around the muzzle while pouring in the water to minimize water getting in the barrel channel. Then I use my usual dry patches etc. to finish cleaning.

I may pull the barrel once a year to check on the underside.

On rifles with a hooked breech and wedges I always pull the barrel.
Thank you for the tips, be it known, my Kentucky is as your rifle, she is pinned in place. I have pulled that barrel a bit, ask my wife,, ping ping with the tack hammer lol.. its not a horrid task,, but am going to keep it in unless needing to come out.
A good tip on the lock, I will apply this so as not to disturb that little spring. Geeseh lol simplicity right there 😆..

Best

Ryan
 
I am in Redbluff, CA... we pretty much are limited to the big box stores, not many mom pop retailers. I will try to call around, because I find that most online vendors require a minimum order. One site was pushing 25lbs, believe me you, that would be great, but i can't afford that lol.. so I will see what the local offerings are,, may have to drive,, but would be worth it in the end..

Thank you again

Best

Ryan
Wow, my home town — born and lived there until 8. How much searching have you done? Had to be done shop Nevada might be an option.
 
I usually store my bp guns with heavy oil in the barrel since there is a long period of time between when I get to shoot them. Always swab out the bore with clean patches to remove any oil and expect the first shot to be a throwaway since some of the powder is going to get oil on it and not properly ignite. Subsequent shots should be good to go.
Mi dos centavos.
 
No shooter new to muzzle loading should ever go to the range for the first time by himself! Find an experience shooter to go with you! You can read and watch all the U ***** tubes you want, but nothing takes the place of experience. If for no other reason than safety. I think most guys won't do this as they don't like to be "told what they don't want to hear". All it takes is a phone call to your state NMLRA / NAR rep to put you in touch with someone. I like that we get new shooters, however there is a leaning curve to this. That curve is traveled faster with someone to help you. Hey, you might even find a life long friend.
And if you are shooting a flinter, get rid of that damn PYRODEX. DY
 
One thing I forgot to mention is, personally, when I am shooting, I almost always use a range rod to do my loading. I only use my rammer when doing a walk and shoot. If your hands are feeling the effect of missed hammer blows and socket wrenches slipping off bolts and such, its much easier.
 
No shooter new to muzzle loading should ever go to the range for the first time by himself! Find an experience shooter to go with you!
I agree, as a new shooter. Also though, easier said than done. It’s a ways out, but I plan on my first outing to be to @B P Maniac Shooter’s New Years shoot. (No pressure there, Mark! 😎) I will feel less intimidated around a group, and having someone who has the same wacky sense of humor while being deadly serious about safety that I do.
 
The only exception is if you have a lot of Pyrodex RS and want to use it up. I put 30gr down the bore first followed by another 40 of RS. Works for my Scotch blood.

Note that the first 30 (10 grains will work too) needs to be real black powder. No substitutes.

I usually store my bp guns with heavy oil in the barrel since there is a long period of time between when I get to shoot them. Always swab out the bore with clean patches to remove any oil and expect the first shot to be a throwaway since some of the powder is going to get oil on it and not properly ignite. Subsequent shots should be good to go.
Mi dos centavos.
Not just clean patches, but alcohol soaked patches to remove heavy oil from the barrel and some liquid rubbing alcohol to clear the patent breech along with an alcohol soaked pipe cleaner to clean the touch hole.

Barricade will leave a thin film on rust inhibiting lubricant that is easy to remove before the first shot.
 
Note that the first 30 (10 grains will work too) needs to be real black powder. No substitutes.


Not just clean patches, but alcohol soaked patches to remove heavy oil from the barrel and some liquid rubbing alcohol to clear the patent breech along with an alcohol soaked pipe cleaner to clean the touch hole.

Barricade will leave a thin film on rust inhibiting lubricant that is easy to remove before the first shot.
I was a little ambiguous and corrected that post.
 
Wow, my home town — born and lived there until 8. How much searching have you done? Had to be done shop Nevada might be an option.
Small world! Yes, seemingly, out of state carries more than what i can locate instate. I called a few places here, all to no avail. Looks like will be ordering online.

Best

Ryan
 
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