Looking at getting a flintlock rifle kit and since it will mainly be a wall hanger in my shop , I don't want to dump a ton of money into one, but still want it to work properly. I plan to bring it out and shoot at family get togethers and shooting events a few times a year. For an entry level gun what do I need to know about the Traditions Kentucky rifle flintlock ? Any main concerns ? How is Traditions customers support these days ? Seems most reviews are favorable, but still read some that site QC issue. Any opinions or advice ? thanks
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Traditions Kentucky rifle flintlock ?
- Thread starter kyron4
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Personally, I've never been a fan of those two-piece stocks.
You might think about the Pennsylvania rifle which has a one-piece. It's a little shorter but would still look good hanging on the wall.
You might think about the Pennsylvania rifle which has a one-piece. It's a little shorter but would still look good hanging on the wall.
Takedown rifles were real, even in the flintlock era, just not very common. It is possible to permanently join the stocks together, as I have done with mine.
My experience is once you tweak the lock, they are great shooters. I removed the wave washer on the frizzen pivot and polished up the point where the frizzen contscts the spring. It will fire every time if I do my part. Here's mine, representing an 1820s New England gun. I have a tread on these forums detailing it more.
My experience is once you tweak the lock, they are great shooters. I removed the wave washer on the frizzen pivot and polished up the point where the frizzen contscts the spring. It will fire every time if I do my part. Here's mine, representing an 1820s New England gun. I have a tread on these forums detailing it more.
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I have a Traditions Kentucky rifle I built from a kit. I'm happy with it. But when you say it will mainly be a wall hanger it makes me think you might want to look at the Traditions Mountain rifle. I just bought one and it's really a good looking gun with the brown CeraKote barrel, trigger guard and butt plate and silver patch box cover, triggers and front sight. It's easily the best looking flintlock I own. It shoots good too.
What stain and finish did you use ? -Thanks
I plan to permanently join the stock also, so the brass spacer is not needed ? thanks
I used this stain and put 4 coats of Tru-Oil on it
Water base stain works better for me.
Attachments
If you don't have a spacer, you will have to drill new pin holes in the tenons as the pin holes in the stock kit will no longer align with the holes in the tenons as the holes in the kit were aligned with the spacer in place.
There are no holes for the tenons in the kit.
Not using the spacer does shorten things a little.I made a new nose cap out of sheet brass
That was the first rifle I bought with my own money when I was 14, a CVA Kentucky flintlock .45 I didn’t have the artisanal skills to make it look very pretty, but the Spanish made barrel was a tack driver and I shot my first deer with it.
Thats a great job with that rifle btw! Beautiful! I’ve always thought these affordable kits have heaps of potential for someone who has the skills and tools (i.e. carve/checkering, brass inlaying etc..)
Thank you! My skills are meager, but my determination strong.
hanshi
Cannon
I've never owned that particular rifle but have owned and heavily used at least two other Traditions rifles. In my case I found customer service to be excellent, and the rifles reliable and accurate.
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I have no experience with Traditions flintlock rifles. But I've seen threads in this forum where someone mentions that his lowly Traditions flintlock rifle has a more reliable lock than his Pedersoli. Less problems with misfires, so they said.
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i have to agree with hanshi.....my customer service experience has been pretty darn good. as some have mentioned, the lock may need a little tweaking....but once done they are good reliable shooters
Mike in FL
50 Cal.
I would go with it if you just want it for what you said.
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Also your nose cap wont fit
And the 2 part stock is desighned to keep from cracking due to humidity
It needs to slide to allow expansion
kh0456
40 Cal.
I actually think the two piece stocks (same as the old CVA kits) were more for packaging. Less wood to stick out and possibly be broken.
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Stick to wat you know
Trust me, they have to slide also if you glue. You cant soak in a bucket without removeing pins!
How many stocks have you repaired?
Because they dint leesten?
you see the grey beard and hair! Look up slotted tenions.also look at the size pins they give you with the kit!
Do you think there iz any give there
I throw those "pinz" in the rubbish
Tell me again wat you "think"!
Objects in mirror may be closer than you think your experience may vary
Trust me, they have to slide also if you glue. You cant soak in a bucket without removeing pins!
How many stocks have you repaired?
Because they dint leesten?
you see the grey beard and hair! Look up slotted tenions.also look at the size pins they give you with the kit!Do you think there iz any give there
I throw those "pinz" in the rubbish
Tell me again wat you "think"!
Objects in mirror may be closer than you think your experience may vary
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