Traditions Kentucky Rifle Kit-Trigger

[KentuckyTAL]

I recently purchased Traditions Kentucky Rifle Kit, which had already been assembled.
I purchased it in the classified section of this forum.
I have a couple of questions about the trigger.

The trigger is very loose. It moves back and forth in the trigger guard.
Is this typical for this rifle, or is it possibly missing an internal part, or in need of some kind of adjustment?

Also, the trigger pull is extremely heavy!
Is this typical for this rifle, or is it an adjustment issue?
The trigger assembly is "safe". The half-cock position works, and the hammer can not be pushed forward by hand in the full-cock position.

Oh, the gun has a single trigger.

This is my first muzzleloader and I'm looking for some assistance.

Thank you,
Tim

 

[necchi]

Those triggers are always kinda loose, not knowing how old your is, some have two screws that hold things together in there.
Pull it and take a look. It's held in place with the tang screw and one wood screw.
(trigger guard of course comes out first).

The pull wieght can be adjusted with a screw that's in the tumbler and adjusts how far the sear engages the tumbler. You can actually adjust it so far that the sear won't engage, so keep it safe man. here's a photo where the screw is plainly seen.

 

[SgtSchutzen]

I`ve fooled around with those kits some, and like necchi said "those triggers are usually kinda loose". Are you talking about fore and aft wiggle or side to side? If for and aft and it`s really bad and bothers you alot you could inlet the trigger plate deeper and that would take out some of the "slop".

 

[KentuckyTAL]

I`ve fooled around with those kits some, and like necchi said "those triggers are usually kinda loose". Are you talking about fore and aft wiggle or side to side? If for and aft and it`s really bad and bothers you alot you could inlet the trigger plate deeper and that would take out some of the "slop".

The slop is fore & aft.
I believe I can live with the slop, as long as I can lighten the trigger pull.

 

[KentuckyTAL]

Those triggers are always kinda loose, not knowing how old your is, some have two screws that hold things together in there.
Pull it and take a look. It's held in place with the tang screw and one wood screw.
(trigger guard of course comes out first).

The pull wieght can be adjusted with a screw that's in the tumbler and adjusts how far the sear engages the tumbler. You can actually adjust it so far that the sear won't engage, so keep it safe man. here's a photo where the screw is plainly seen.

That helps!
It seems like the main spring is one tight son of a gun.
But I suppose that's the nature of the beast.

I'm more aquatinted with the triggers on my Kimber 1911, and Colt Python...Light and smooth as glass.

Thanks for the help!

 

[necchi]

Yeah, tight spring is good.
Those locks (CVA and Traditions, both spanish made are pretty much the same for many years) benefit greatly from a full disassemble and polishing.
They stamp the parts out, and the assemblers do nothing than just assemble.

Once apart, use a stone to polish bearing surfaces to remove sharp edges an burrs. Be carefull around the pivot points cause you want those thight too.
Once polished up an "tuned" as they say those old locks can be suprisingly strong, fast and reliable.

 

[KentuckyTAL]

Yeah, tight spring is good.
Those locks (CVA and Traditions, both spanish made are pretty much the same for many years) benefit greatly from a full disassemble and polishing.
They stamp the parts out, and the assemblers do nothing than just assemble.

Once apart, use a stone to polish bearing surfaces to remove sharp edges an burrs. Be carefull around the pivot points cause you want those thight too.
Once polished up an "tuned" as they say those old locks can be suprisingly strong, fast and reliable.

necchi,
When you say "stone", what exactly do you mean?
Like a knife sharpening stone, or is there such a thing as gun smithing stones?
Thanks,
Tim

 

[SgtSchutzen]

Any small honeing stone will work. I have a small pointy one made for fishhooks that works good. Just make sure it`s not so course that it leaves a rough surface. You want to polish not remove alot of material.

 

[Leatherbark]

Yeah, tight spring is good.
Those locks (CVA and Traditions, both spanish made are pretty much the same for many years) benefit greatly from a full disassemble and polishing.
They stamp the parts out, and the assemblers do nothing than just assemble.

Once apart, use a stone to polish bearing surfaces to remove sharp edges an burrs. Be carefull around the pivot points cause you want those thight too.
Once polished up an "tuned" as they say those old locks can be suprisingly strong, fast and reliable.

necchi,
When you say "stone", what exactly do you mean?
Like a knife sharpening stone, or is there such a thing as gun smithing stones?
Thanks,
Tim

Use a popsickle stick/knife blade and some 600 grit wet or dry and polish the mating surfaces and sear/hammer notch being careful not to change the angles.

Plus a resourceful fellow could fashion him a small spring out of an inkpen or something to hold that trigger slop to the rear. Something real light, just enough to hold it against the sear lightly.
Bob

 

[KentuckyTAL]

Plus a resourceful fellow could fashion him a small spring out of an inkpen or something to hold that trigger slop to the rear. Something real light, just enough to hold it against the sear lightly.
Bob

Bob,
Excellent idea!
I'm going to take a look through my tool box "junk drawer". I'm sure I'll be able to find a suitable spring in there.
Thanks,
Tim

 

[ohio ramrod]

I have worked on many many of those locks and they all have the same heavy trigger pull. The reason is the angle of the tumbler where it contacts the sear. If you look closely while slowly pulling the trigger you will actually see the hammer start to move back before releasing. The solution to this is to hone the tumbler so that the notch for full cock is axactly 90 degrees to the sear. To sharp of an angle ( less than 90degrees ) and you have your current hard pull. More than 90 degrees and the tumbler will push the sear and will not hold. Using the adjustment screw to limit the engagement area will often prevent the sear from fully engaging the tumbler. This can lead to a dangerous situation. :idunno: :idunno:

 

[Kentuckywindage]

Or just buy an adjustable tumbler with the set screw.

Actually it should already have the adjustable tumbler, mine came with one.

 

TAL, what part of Michigan do you live. I'd be willing to give you some help if you are close. Since this is a kit I would suspect this is a trigger that was just installed to the inset that was there, instead of being fitted. I would guess a lot more wood could be removed all over the gun.

Bill