Trappers belt axe

[kodiakk]

Anyone else bought a axe of knife from Track of the Wolf? I was not impressed when the axe arrived. For the price of $70 I expected a very nice axe. When it came the handle was lose on the head, and it wasn't even close to sharp in the least. After hours of work I finally got a good edge.

Is this normal for their cutlery? Any other better experiences with their cutlery? Any other suggestions for quality older fashioned cutlery that won't break the bank?

 

[fatboy]

Never bought anything like that from them but thats kinda poor if the handle was loose and the blade not even close to being sharp. I wouldnt sell something like that to be used but maybe they just missed it before it was packed. Hopefully it will serve your needs well otherwise.

 

[DUSTY 14]

bought a great axe head at an antique store no handle for $5 then got straight handle for $17 will be period correct with no curve and super steel

 

[fatboy]

Yeah Dusty theres nothing wrong with that,others have done the same. I have been wanting to try and rework some into looking more of the period

 

[kodiakk]

I should of gone that route.

 

[BrownBear]

Haven't tried their as-built axes, but have bought a pipehawk head and several finished knives. All were solid and clean. Almost pulled the trigger on the same as you bought with my last order, but you have me wondering now. Thanks, I think.

 

[crockett]

I do that all the time. Most used axe heads are cheap and the metal is easily sawn and filed to whatever shape you want. I make new handles out of ash.

 

[necchi]

Yes, that's typical of just about any "forged" hawk head.
(from just about any supplier)
All the handles need to be worked for a snug fit. I use a 4in1 rasp then usually saw off the top of the handle to about 1/4-1/8 above the head.
And use a file and stone to bring the edge to what I want. Some folks don't want a razor edge on a hawk.

Same thing with most of the blades they and others sell too, they don't come super sharp.

What kind of other Cutlery are you looking for?

 

[Vtsmoker]

I think the sharp edge thing may be a safty\shipping thing. My hawk from townsend had no edge at all. the handle was tight and unfinished and only cost me $22.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Most commercial dealers are NOT going to sell you a hawk that has a sharp edge, and one that needs some filing to fit the handle to the head is pretty much the norm, too. Once in awhile, you get an axe that a handle will fit snugly without work, but that's rare. I bought my hawks from H&B forge at Friendship, along with their throwing knife. Each had issues, but I was prepared to correct them when I got home. I have been sharpening knives since 1959- you do the math, I don't have that many toes and fingers! :rotf: :wink: --- So putting a proper edge on an hawk or axe was and still is not a problem. I sharpened an old axe I inherited from my father just yesterday.

Most hawks will require some fitting of the wood handles to the head. The handles are pretty much cut all the same, but the eye holes in the heads differ somewhat in dimension. Put the head on the hand. turn the hawk so the axe head is down, and the edge pointed away from you, and give it a good blow on a bench top, or a tree stump. Then turn the hawk right side up and give it another blow to release the head from the stick. You will see the "High spots" on the end of the handle where the head was fitting. File those spots down, and repeat the exercise, until the high spots are gone, and the head does not "wiggle" on the handle.

Simple. Really. :hmm: :hatsoff: :hatsoff:

As to the edge of the hawk, you first have to decide what kind of work this TOOL will be doing. Is it for show?- leave the edge DULL.

Is it for throwing at a target "stump" where you only score if the axe sticks??? -- Then put a 45-60 degree bevel on the edges and leave the edge sharp.

Is it going to be used to do general camp chores, including cutting pegs for your tent, or tent stakes, fire tools to hold pots , etc? If you won't be cutting more than 1 " thick green wood, then consider using a finer, 30 degree bevel on the edge. If you will be cutting dry wood, or thicker wood, then go back to the 45 degree bevel. The edge will hold up longer, and better with the coarser bevel.

If you are going to split wood, driving the edge of the axe into end grain, you might want to put a hollow grind bevel on the edges, so that the wood begins to split fairly quickly after the edge enters the end grain. [NOTE: I prefer people use axes and hawks, for coarse cutting chores, and leave log splitting to wedges( with 60-90 degree bevels) and sledge hammers, or splitting mawls. You can easily damage an edge on an axe trying to use it for this kind of work, particularly if the wood is green, or one of the truly hard woods like oak and ash. ] :hatsoff: :hatsoff:

 

[crockett]

Years ago axes were sharpened with a scallop bevel. The idea was the bevel was more blunt at the top and bottom corners- so the edge held up better but the center part that would chop deepest into the wood had a thinner bevel. I tried it but it is a lot of work to form. In any event I usually thin the bevel pretty good so the axe chops deep- puts out big chucks/chips.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Sorry. You have to marry the edge you choose to the wood you want to cut. That Scalloped edge works pretty good when cutting firs, and pines, but not so well when cutting any hard woods. Be very careful how thin an edge you put on an axe that will be used to cut hickory, Oak, ash, walnut, Osage orange, etc. You can break a chip out of a thin edge very easily in hard woods. Don't ask me how I know that truth! Thank you. :surrender: :thumbsup:

 

[crockett]

I agree, I have a couple of small Hudson Bay type axes with light weight heads- I filed down the bevel to a ridiculously thin taper but for summer, on soft woods, it is really incredible. BUT as you said- I wouldn't think of using it on hardwood or in the winter on frozen wood. I have about fifteen axes. The scallop- I only did it on one and I sort of thought it was a waste of time- just wondering if anyone else ever heard of it.
What's more dangerous: a hatchet or an axe?

 

[Robert Egler]

What's more dangerous: a hatchet or an axe?

I'd say a hatchet, no question in my mind. I saw my cousin almost take his hand off with one splitting firewood. Hit behind his left thumb and cut up to the base of his little finger, just took a moment's distraction while he was cutting. While holding a piece of wood with one hand and splitting it with something is a bad idea to start with, its pretty much impossible to even try with an ax. But a short "camp" ax (we call them 3/4 axes, but I'm not sure that's an official term) can be bad too, if you miss the log you're splitting it is short enough to swing down and hit your leg (which I actually did once, luckily not seriously), while a full size ax will hit the ground first.

Just my opinion, you may differ.

On the other hand it's a pain to try and carry a full size ax with you all the time in the woods, but my little belt ax goes with me pretty much everywhere outside and it's no problem at all.

 

[Rifleman1776]

As others have pointed out, you should not expect a snug handle fit on a new hawk or axe. And you definitely should not expect a sharp edge on a new cutting instrument of any kind.
You say you expected something "nice". Other than the handle and edge what makes your new hawk not "nice"? Conversely, what would you expect that would make it "nice"?

 

[kodiakk]

Thanks for all the insight folks. When I bought my Wetterlings hatchet it was a very quality piece and razor sharp, so I guess I expected the same.

I'm looking for a nice bowie and short skinner. Something not real expensive, but something that I can pass down to my daughter. I have one blade I'm making for her, but not sure if it will come out nice yet.

 

[BrownBear]

A couple of years back I picked up one of these as a gift for a shooting pard. It's worked out so well as a skinner I bought another for myself and a couple of other pards have picked up their own. There are lots fancier ones around for lots more money, but I have a hard time imagining you can buy a better knife for the same money.

 

[tg]

I like to keep a copuple of forked sticks around camp to steady pieces of woood that I am splitting with a hatchet or small axe one handed takes a bit to get in position at times but removes the off hand from being in a position to really be "off"

 

[Rifleman1776]

Thanks for all the insight folks. When I bought my Wetterlings hatchet it was a very quality piece and razor sharp, so I guess I expected the same.

I'm looking for a nice bowie and short skinner. Something not real expensive, but something that I can pass down to my daughter. I have one blade I'm making for her, but not sure if it will come out nice yet.

From yer handle, I'm surmising you are in Alaska. Alaska has an abundance of great knife makers. Internet searches will bring up many. I could almost sell the farm to buy all the nice knives I see available from Alaska. Plus you have some semi-custom companies that make great knives at more affordable prices. My son used to live up there and I'm still kinda bummed he never got me a knife from there. But, I'll forgive him. The bearclaw necklaces he got me are very treasured. :thumbsup:

 

[crockett]

I agree, a hatchet is no toy. Definately more dangerous than an axe.