• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Tried and True Oil Finish

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Feb 8, 2018
Messages
184
Reaction score
338
I'm about to finish a Kibler Colonial with a cherry stock. I bought an 8oz bottle of Tried and True Original Wood Finish and was surprised to see how thick it is. I was expecting a lighter oil, similar or slightly thicker than Trueoil. This is very thick and heavier, about like honey. I tried it on an old cutting board and it is so thick it is hard to smear it around and into the grain. Is this normal? Can it be cut with standard boiled linseed oil? Thanks!
 
You rub it, hard and fast, with your bare fingers. The friction makes it hot which is critical to getting the oil to cure. Also, the beeswax softens with heat and penetrates the wood.

That said, I wouldn't use that product on a gunstock. Use the oil varnish instead.
 
More than likely boiled linseed oil would not be the right choice for "cutting". Best to ask the maker, but I would guess a turpentine or citrus spirit would be better suited. If you can't contact the maker, just try some things with a small sample. Be sure to check how it dries after thinning, as well. If the label has turpentine or other gum/citrus spirit listed in the contents, try that.
 
I used a 50/50 mix with turpentine it dried within 2 days. Straight from the can 2 months. Just a drop at a time and rubbed till my arm was sore.
 
This time of year it will cure relatively quickly, but in August / September you might have to wait quite a while between coats. A drop or two of Japan Drier in the bowl helps some.
 
Hi,
The beeswax is the thickener in it. The warmer the ambient temperature the easier it is to rub over the wood. It is a labor intensive finish requiring a lot of rubbing and polishing and is not one I would choose if I had any carving with tight corners. Tried and True oil varnish is a better choice. There is no advantage to beeswax in a finish and an oil varnish or straight polymerized oil will bring out more figure in the wood and is just as weather resistant.

dave
 
Hi,
The beeswax is the thickener in it. The warmer the ambient temperature the easier it is to rub over the wood. It is a labor intensive finish requiring a lot of rubbing and polishing and is not one I would choose if I had any carving with tight corners. Tried and True oil varnish is a better choice. There is no advantage to beeswax in a finish and an oil varnish or straight polymerized oil will bring out more figure in the wood and is just as weather resistant.

dave
Birchwood/Casey’s TrueOil is pretty hard to beat from most any standpoint. I have used it for close to 50 yrs.
 
Back
Top