Tried and True Oil Finish

[Eras Gone]

I'm about to finish a Kibler Colonial with a cherry stock. I bought an 8oz bottle of Tried and True Original Wood Finish and was surprised to see how thick it is. I was expecting a lighter oil, similar or slightly thicker than Trueoil. This is very thick and heavier, about like honey. I tried it on an old cutting board and it is so thick it is hard to smear it around and into the grain. Is this normal? Can it be cut with standard boiled linseed oil? Thanks!

 

[IanH]

You rub it, hard and fast, with your bare fingers. The friction makes it hot which is critical to getting the oil to cure. Also, the beeswax softens with heat and penetrates the wood.

That said, I wouldn't use that product on a gunstock. Use the oil varnish instead.

 

[Old Hawkeye]

More than likely boiled linseed oil would not be the right choice for "cutting". Best to ask the maker, but I would guess a turpentine or citrus spirit would be better suited. If you can't contact the maker, just try some things with a small sample. Be sure to check how it dries after thinning, as well. If the label has turpentine or other gum/citrus spirit listed in the contents, try that.

 

[Capt. Jas.]

Id use the linseed varnish

 

[rusticbob]

I used hardware store BLO on my Cherry Kibler stock, and after much rubbing and many coats it looked wonderful

 

[RMH]

Try thinning with Turpentine. I use the Tried &True Oil/Varnish and cut it 50/50 with turpentine for the first couple of coats.

 

[JHB]

I used a 50/50 mix with turpentine it dried within 2 days. Straight from the can 2 months. Just a drop at a time and rubbed till my arm was sore.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Sounds like a slow and labor intensive process, is there an advantage to it in the end?

 

[JHB]

I think it's more work than it's worth. I like Permalyn from LMF

 

[Col. Batguano]

This time of year it will cure relatively quickly, but in August / September you might have to wait quite a while between coats. A drop or two of Japan Drier in the bowl helps some.

 

[TDM]

I like T&T but it needs a little pure gum turpentine to speed the drying. I hand rub mine in too.

 

[Sam squanch]

You rub it, hard and fast

Careful! That’s a good way to get hurt in the shop!

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
The beeswax is the thickener in it. The warmer the ambient temperature the easier it is to rub over the wood. It is a labor intensive finish requiring a lot of rubbing and polishing and is not one I would choose if I had any carving with tight corners. Tried and True oil varnish is a better choice. There is no advantage to beeswax in a finish and an oil varnish or straight polymerized oil will bring out more figure in the wood and is just as weather resistant.

dave

 

[Billy Boy]

Hi,
The beeswax is the thickener in it. The warmer the ambient temperature the easier it is to rub over the wood. It is a labor intensive finish requiring a lot of rubbing and polishing and is not one I would choose if I had any carving with tight corners. Tried and True oil varnish is a better choice. There is no advantage to beeswax in a finish and an oil varnish or straight polymerized oil will bring out more figure in the wood and is just as weather resistant.

dave

Birchwood/Casey’s TrueOil is pretty hard to beat from most any standpoint. I have used it for close to 50 yrs.

 

[Old Hawkeye]

Birchwood/Casey’s TrueOil is pretty hard to beat from most any standpoint. I have used it for close to 50 yrs.

The problem with Tru-oil is that it is not "in" the wood but "on" the wood. Makes a pretty finish but not very durable at all. Not a good choice for a "quality" finish. Just my two cents.