OK, silly question.......Does Tried & True Oil Varnish need to be stirred before using? Or..... just use it just open the can and use? I've email the company a couple of times but haven't received a response (they could still be laughing at the question). Thanks for any clarification.
Tried & True Oil Varnish
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I have never used it.
I think it is what Kibler recommmends on thier stocks, you might call them, and ask.
Dave
I think it is what Kibler recommmends on thier stocks, you might call them, and ask.
Dave
Don't know. Heck. Just stir it. Shouldn't hurt.
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Well I didn’t stir it last time I used it.
I love the stuff. Follow the direction. Hand rub on a thin coat, let it dry/soak in for an hour or so, then take a soft rag and give it a good rub down. Let it dry thoroughly and do it again.
I ended up with 4 or 5 coats total. Don’t remember exactly.
I love the stuff. Follow the direction. Hand rub on a thin coat, let it dry/soak in for an hour or so, then take a soft rag and give it a good rub down. Let it dry thoroughly and do it again.
I ended up with 4 or 5 coats total. Don’t remember exactly.
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Hi,
No need to stir it. RobertE has good advice. I've used Tried and True oil varnish (although I mostly use polymerized tung oil) and applied it with a maroon Scotch Bright pad. I put it on fairly liberally with the pad and then let it sit for 15 minutes or so. Then I wipe it off completely with a rag. I mean completely. I get into all nooks, corners, and crannies and wipe it off. Wait 24 hours no matter how dry it feels after 4 or 5 hours. Then repeat until you get the sheen you desire.
dave
No need to stir it. RobertE has good advice. I've used Tried and True oil varnish (although I mostly use polymerized tung oil) and applied it with a maroon Scotch Bright pad. I put it on fairly liberally with the pad and then let it sit for 15 minutes or so. Then I wipe it off completely with a rag. I mean completely. I get into all nooks, corners, and crannies and wipe it off. Wait 24 hours no matter how dry it feels after 4 or 5 hours. Then repeat until you get the sheen you desire.
dave
Prior posts are spot on. It's great stuff! I apply first coat liberally and wipe off. Follow on coats just drops rubbed in firmly with heel of hand to heat it up. I put in a few drops of cherry tint to redden it and it comes out looking amazing.
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You can't screw up a rub on , rub off finish ,well , maybe I could. The only trouble you might encounter is what's in it. If the stuff is mostly boiled linseed oil , you may have to re apply it after hunting in bad weather. It won't be water proof. Back in the 1950's , when boiled linseed oil finishes first became popular , my father was remodeling military unmentionables into deer rifles. He used Birchwood/Casey Boiled linseed finishes, and one hunt in the rain , the finish would begin to thin out while you watched it, out in the rain. A suggestion.......Always apply a thin highly penetrating finish as a sealer on freshly sanded wood. Then whatever you use for a final finish , will do better. Never use raw untreated tung oil as a sealer , as it will never dry , causing whatever the second and final finish to not dry.. Finishing wood requires "technique" . Over the years , I've gone to a penetrating finish first. Then when that's thoroughly dry , gell polyurithane. But again , there's technique involved with the poly. Sorry ,if i created more questions than answers...............oldwood
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