Trigger pivot pin

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bighole

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Hello,

I need to drill holes in the trigger plate boss and trigger for a 3/32 pivot pin of some type. Can I use a roll pin for this or will the slot in the pin wear the trigger piece hole?

Thanks!!
 
Roll pins have been used for such. If concerned about wear, I would figure where the bearing surface of pin will be subjected to main rotating applied force, then insert pin accordingly to avoid slot in that area.

With that said, I normally use finishing nails for single trigger pins.

Here is link to finishing nail diameters:[url] http://www.artlex.com/ArtLex/n/nail/finishing_nails.html[/url]
 
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Whatever pin stock you choose should work. I use 1/16" dia. music or piano wire which is harder than most rd stk. Are you concerned that the pin might move and that's why you're considering a roll pin? Never had a pin move because the inlet retains the pin.....Fred
 
flehto said:
Are you concerned that the pin might move and that's why you're considering a roll pin? Never had a pin move because the inlet retains the pin.....Fred
Yes, I'm concerned the pin may rotate and enlarge the holes.
 
Theoretically, if the pin rotates, it should be in the trigger plate vs the trigger because of the difference in bearing surfaces. I use a 1/16 drill in assembly so really don't know in what part the pin rotates and really don't think it makes one iota of difference.....Fred
 
I don't think a person needs to be concerned with wear at the trigger pin.

If a trigger moves 1/4 inch (at the bottom) each time it's pulled, and the trigger pin is located 7/8 inch above the bottom the rotation of each pull is about 16.6 degrees. That would take about 22 pulls to equal 360 degrees, or one revolution.
I'm just guessing but if the trigger pin has any oil on it I would bet it could be slowly rotated over 1000 times without showing much if any wear.

That would equal about 22,000 pulls of the trigger in the above calculation. :)
 
A good place to get hardened pins is from used car or truck universial joints caps. The pins come in a lot of different sizes.
 
Everyone that has actually installed a trigger pin take one step foreward.

:hmm: Just as I suspected.


THERE SHOULD BE NO ROTATION OF THE TRIGGER PIN.

:nono: :nono: :nono:

The hole in the bolster should be tight, the hole through the trigger itself should allow movement. There should be no turning of the trigger pin itself. If anything wears it should be the hole in the trigger blank.

If you use a 3/32" finish nail, and after 5,000 shots you notice a wobble in the pin hole, drill the hole out to 1/8" and shoot another 5,000 shots.

Hardened pins! Roll pins! It's a trigger pin for heavens' sake, they used to use hammered wire!

There are much more important things to worry about during a build. Wait until you get to inletting the tang, fitting the breechplug, cutting the dovetails!
 
ghost said:
THERE SHOULD BE NO ROTATION OF THE TRIGGER PIN.

:nono: :nono: :nono:

The hole in the bolster should be tight, the hole through the trigger itself should allow movement. There should be no turning of the trigger pin itself.
That's why I asked about using a roll pin so it would not move in the bolster. This is my first kit that didn't come with instructions, a guide or any holes already drilled. It doesn't come with a trigger pin so it's left up to the imagination.

ghost said:
If anything wears it should be the hole in the trigger blank.
I'd rather the pin wear instead of a part that I may not be able to replace in the future.

ghost said:
There are much more important things to worry about during a build. Wait until you get to inletting the tang, fitting the breechplug, cutting the dovetails!
I've already done most of the inletting (no fun) and the dovetails and breechplug are already done.

Track of the Wolf had some comments about which trigger pivot pin to use and it conflicted with what I've seen elsewhere. I would hope we can do something better than drilling out the hole to the next size every 5000 shots or 4-5 years of use.
 

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