Trigger Problems

[Forestwalker]

Hey Gentleman or Ladies

I have a bit of an emergency here, I went out to shoot my new Traditions' Pennsylvania Rifle that my wife got me for Christmas over the weekend. After about the 6th shot, the hammer would not stay in the full-lock position(firing). The half-lock postion(safety) is okay. Got out my owner's booklet to adjust the trigger. Turned the little screw behind the 2nd trigger,in with hammer cocked till it stopped, hammer would still not hold, unscrewed same count and thought I might look at lock mechanism, to see if it was like the pictures. I think I let the main spring off the lock side screw. Any suggestions about the locking postions and re-engaging the main spring.

Thanks

 

[rrgr40]

Sounds like it came loose on the inside. Pull the lock out and check it. Careful when pulling it out that the mainspring does not come disengaged. :relax: :front:

 

[Forestwalker]

I'm new to this, if you couldn't tell. Thanks for the advice, do I need to remove both side screws and the screw under the trigger guard to remove trigger assembly? Does it just pull out? Which postion should hammer be in, does hammer screw need to come out also?

Thanks

 

[MikeChapin]

Just a guess but it sounds like the fly is hanging up for some reason. I have seen it happen before on a CVA Mountain Rifle I have. The fly is a tiny kite shaped piece of metal that fits into a slot in the tumbler. It should slip down to the half cock notch when the lock goes to full cock. If it is staying up in the full cock notch the lock will not engage.

It might just need some light oil to losen it up.

 

[Forestwalker]

Thanks, I'm at work right now, but will look into tonight, its in the vice right now.

Any pointers or "watch-out-fors" in removing the lock?

 

[Zonie]

First off, I'll say I don't own the rifle your talking about.
Having said that, I will say you want to remove the lock, not the trigger assembly.

The lock will be retained by one or two screws which go thru the stock from left to right. If there are two screws on the side opposite the lock, remove both of them.
Some barrels work to retain the lock, so it's a good idea to remove the barrel too.
The lock should then pull out of the stock. (do this with the hammer at half cock. If it is at full cock, you may unknowingly depress the sear arm and release the hammer. This will crush any fingers in it's way.)

After you have removed the lock, you will notice a piece of metal sticking outward. This is the sear arm, which the trigger pushes on to fire the gun.
Pulling the hammer back slightly, push up on the sear arm to disengage the sear nose from the half cock notch, then lower the hammer all the way down.

Pulling the hammer back upwards, you should notice the sear nose again clicks into the half cock notch. Pull the hammer further back, an the sear nose should engage the full cock notch. If it fails to engage this, look closely to derermine why it is not engaging properly.
If it does engage, and then when you release the pressure on the hammer the hammer starts to fall, either the nose of the sear (which should engage the notch) is broken, or the notch is damaged.

This notch, and the nose of the sear should be VERY hard. If either of them were not heat treated properly, and they are still "soft", they will wear very rapidly.
I have seen this happen in both new and original antique locks.

A comment was made about the fly hanging up and preventing the sear from engaging the full cock notch.
While I have never seen a fly which was large enough to do this, it is a possibility.
The fly is very small, and is located between the half cock notch and the full cock notch. It's purpose is to prevent the sear nose from re-entering the half cock notch while the hammer is falling from the full cock notch to fire the gun.
When bringing the hammer from a fired position to a full cock position, the fly is pushed back by the sear nose. This exposes the half cock notch so the sear nose can enter it.
Further cocking the hammer should allow the sear nose to jump over the fly and engage the full cock notch.

If the tumbler or sear are not hardened, and look like they are worn, call the Manufacturer. They should volenteer to fix it (for free).
If the sear nose is not rounded, and the tumbler full cock notch is not worn or rounded (it should have a sharp edge where it meets the outside diameter of the tumbler), get back with us and let us know.
We'll get this thing fixed, or my name isn't Zonie. :front:

 

[rrgr40]

Nice post Zonie. That should walk anyone thru lock problems. This post is worthy of the printer for anyone who is not in the know.
:RO: :agree: :thumbsup: